Does £800 sound about right including new loom to fix roof sensor issue?

[Wilbur]

I was hugely impressed with Kernow Transporters and the chap previously retrofitted VW California roofs to van conversions and therefore I would say is an expert and I also witnessed him fix my roof with new sensors. He does have a can do attitude and I’m sure will advise you on establishing the fault and a solution. He has since change his business model and sells parts on eBay. Worth a punt and not detracting from the advice already received.

 

[vbk1975]

Thanks for your reply, I really appreciate it. Funny you should say that and I did wonder when I was wiring it up, as the original sensors looking from above had the red wire on the right hand side and the brown wire on the left-hand side. The new sensor was the other way round, so I wired them up to pin locations to keep the live on the right instead of wire colours is that my mistake? do the replacement sensors have the internals wired up differently than the original ones? so what I’m asking is, should it be colour to colour, red to red and brown to brown? It seems pretty obvious now, but I didn’t want to send live into the wrong pin in the hall sensor. I hope this makes sense? I was just about to de-solder and swap them round, but the heavens have open now typically!! Thanks again, Alan.

So the Red is shared feed to the open and closed sensors, the brown wire is the feed back from the sensor. Important to get the forward and rearwards sensors the right way around.

Both showing AN8 and AN9 showing 108 after a battery reset probably doesn't result in a fault as the sensors haven't changed state without the pumping operating and that is valid for a roof half up.

So the ECU is seeing a valid current flow for a sensor being in the circuit, but they don't change state with the wiring as it is.

Good luck!

 

[AlanDoddAlanDodd]

So the Red is shared feed to the open and closed sensors, the brown wire is the feed back from the sensor. Important to get the forward and rearwards sensors the right way around.

Both showing AN8 and AN9 showing 108 after a battery reset probably doesn't result in a fault as the sensors haven't changed state without the pumping operating and that is valid for a roof half up.

So the ECU is seeing a valid current flow for a sensor being in the circuit, but they don't change state with the wiring as it is.

Good luck!

Thanks for your reply again, I cut and soldered them close to the sensors so I didn’t get them wrong front and rear. Like I say my only concern is connecting the wires the wrong way around. I have been away this weekend and the roof has been open down a few times, the AN results are after several full roof operations. I will swap the wires so they are colour to colour and see what happens. Thanks again.

 

[vbk1975]

Thanks for your reply again, I cut and soldered them close to the sensors so I didn’t get them wrong front and rear. Like I say my only concern is connecting the wires the wrong way around. I have been away this weekend and the roof has been open down a few times, the AN results are after several full roof operations. I will swap the wires so they are colour to colour and see what happens. Thanks again.

So i have struck out the comment on the 108 and 108 - i have tested again and you are correct, i must have created the fault when testing

 

[AlanDoddAlanDodd]

So i have struck out the comment on the 108 and 108 - i have tested again and you are correct, i must have created the fault when testing

Thank you, appreciate your help.

 

[AlanDoddAlanDodd]

Today’s update, it’s getting closer but it’s still not fixed!! Any more ideas from you experts?

I swapped all four sensor wires colour to colour now, the roof open icon is still showing. I removed the fuse again, disconnected roof display and switched it off for a couple of minutes. Still showing open!
When I opened the roof the pump strain ran on its own at the top and stopped automatically and a tick appeared next to the “open” word in the display, this now seems to be working correctly! the AN8 showed 133, and the AN9 showed 255, so the open Sequence seems correct.

After a couple of full open and close sequences, the close function still doesn’t work. The pump strain runs continuously and there is no tick next to the close word. The icon shows open. When closed the AN8 now shows 133 and the AN9 shows 132.
(Should one show 255??)

After locking the vehicle for a couple of minutes and then re-operating the roof fully open and fully down, at the very bottom of the operation the pump strain run and stopped on its own, but there was no tick next to the “close” word, and the icon still shows the roof as open. The display still shows no error. This time AN8 shows 109 and AN9 shows 109.

I’m hoping for some wizardry magic from you forum Jedi’s to crack this issue.
Hope you can help, looking forward to your suggestions.
Many thanks again, Alan.

 

[vbk1975]

Today’s update, it’s getting closer but it’s still not fixed!! Any more ideas from you experts?

I swapped all four sensor wires colour to colour now, the roof open icon is still showing. I removed the fuse again, disconnected roof display and switched it off for a couple of minutes. Still showing open!
When I opened the roof the pump strain ran on its own at the top and stopped automatically and a tick appeared next to the “open” word in the display, this now seems to be working correctly! the AN8 showed 133, and the AN9 showed 255, so the open Sequence seems correct.

After a couple of full open and close sequences, the close function still doesn’t work. The pump strain runs continuously and there is no tick next to the close word. The icon shows open. When closed the AN8 now shows 133 and the AN9 shows 132.
(Should one show 255??)

After locking the vehicle for a couple of minutes and then re-operating the roof fully open and fully down, at the very bottom of the operation the pump strain run and stopped on its own, but there was no tick next to the “close” word, and the icon still shows the roof as open. The display still shows no error. This time AN8 shows 109 and AN9 shows 109.

I’m hoping for some wizardry magic from you forum Jedi’s to crack this issue.
Hope you can help, looking forward to your suggestions.
Many thanks again, Alan.

So can you pull fuse SH17 and have the ign off. Fuse box under passenger seat - 30A fuse.

With the roof down, leave fuse out for 30 secs put back in. Check AN8 and AN9 with Ign off. Then with Ign on.

You will have a roof fault, clear after checking the values.

 

[Lambeth Cali]

Thanks for your reply, I really appreciate it. Funny you should say that and I did wonder when I was wiring it up, as the original sensors looking from above had the red wire on the right hand side and the brown wire on the left-hand side. The new sensor was the other way round, so I wired them up to pin locations to keep the live on the right instead of wire colours is that my mistake? do the replacement sensors have the internals wired up differently than the original ones? so what I’m asking is, should it be colour to colour, red to red and brown to brown? It seems pretty obvious now, but I didn’t want to send live into the wrong pin in the hall sensor. I hope this makes sense? I was just about to de-solder and swap them round, but the heavens have open now typically!! Thanks again, Alan.

Definitely red to red and brown to brown. Good luck. Hopefully that will fix it.

 

[AlanDoddAlanDodd]

Definitely red to red and brown to brown. Good luck. Hopefully that will fix it.

Thanks for your reply. I did that to the wiring, red to red and brown to brown, it improved things, but didn’t fully fix it, and the icon is still showing open. The improvements are, the pump strain noise at the end of its travel top and bottom stops on its own now and when fully open a tick appears next to the word open. However, when fully down, no tick appears next to the word Closed in the display, but the pump does stop running. The icon remains open!! Damn it.

 

[vbk1975]

Thanks for your reply. I did that to the wiring, red to red and brown to brown, it improved things, but didn’t fully fix it, and the icon is still showing open. The improvements are, the pump strain noise at the end of its travel top and bottom stops on its own now and when fully open a tick appears next to the word open. However, when fully down, no tick appears next to the word Closed in the display, but the pump does stop running. The icon remains open!! D

So the fact the pump runs on, when opening and closing is normally triggered by valid sensors being detected. But the Roof ECU won't confirm the status until it sees the pump load increase as the pressure builds.

The reason for asking you to pull the SH17 fuse and then replace it, it that this is the Roof ECU fuse. And once reset it will then give you the sensor readings without looking for the pump to have pressurised. If the sensor readings look sensible after this, then my next suggest would be to check your roof pump fluid level, it might be that with the rams fully extended (closed state) there isn't enough fluid to get the pressure.

 

[AlanDoddAlanDodd]

So can you pull fuse SH17 and have the ign off. Fuse box under passenger seat - 30A fuse.

With the roof down, leave fuse out for 30 secs put back in. Check AN8 and AN9 with Ign off. Then with Ign on.

You will have a roof fault, clear after checking the values.

Thanks for your advice. I have just pulled the 30 amp fuse again and waited and then re fitted it, with the ignition off AN8 and AN9 both show zero. With the ignition on they both changed to 109. Is this correct do you think? What does yours show? The roof icon still shows open when the roof is down.

 

[AlanDoddAlanDodd]

So the fact the pump runs on, when opening and closing is normally triggered by valid sensors being detected. But the Roof ECU won't confirm the status until it sees the pump load increase as the pressure builds.

The reason for asking you to pull the SH17 fuse and then replace it, it that this is the Roof ECU fuse. And once reset it will then give you the sensor readings without looking for the pump to have pressurised. If the sensor readings look sensible after this, then my next suggest would be to check your roof pump fluid level, it might be that with the rams fully extended (closed state) there isn't enough fluid to get the pressure.

Do you know if I can see the fluid level by removing the roof display panel and light assembly or does the complete headlining need to come down? Thanks.

 

[vbk1975]

Thanks for your advice. I have just pulled the 30 amp fuse again and waited and then re fitted it, with the ignition off AN8 and AN9 both show zero. With the ignition on they both changed to 109. Is this correct do you think? What does yours show? The roof icon still shows open when the roof is down.

Something is not correct with the closed sensors. This is mine with roof down

It might be that you need to replace the closed sensors if you are confident with the wiring now, also worth checking they are seated correctly and haven't become unclipped before you do anything else.

It might be that having the wiring reversed has damaged the sensors, hence suggest replacing them.

 

[AlanDoddAlanDodd]

Something is not correct with the closed sensors. This is mine with roof down

It might be that you need to replace the closed sensors if you are confident with the wiring now, also worth checking they are seated correctly and haven't become unclipped before you do anything else.

It might be that having the wiring reversed has damaged the sensors, hence suggest replacing them.

View attachment 121628

Thanks for taking the time to get your readings for me to compare., I appreciate it. it is certainly a consideration that the sensors may have been damaged and when wired up incorrectly. Strange that when raising the roof is operates correctly, the pump strain stops on its own and it “open” word in the overhead display pops up a tick, (luck maybe?) it just doesn’t happen when lowering the roof. However, this is certainly a probable cause and replacing the sensors makes sense, they are still seated correctly, thanks very much for your suggestion.

 

[Lambeth Cali]

Thanks for taking the time to get your readings for me to compare., I appreciate it. it is certainly a consideration that the sensors may have been damaged and when wired up incorrectly. Strange that when raising the roof is operates correctly, the pump strain stops on its own and it “open” word in the overhead display pops up a tick, (luck maybe?) it just doesn’t happen when lowering the roof. However, this is certainly a probable cause and replacing the sensors makes sense, they are still seated correctly, thanks very much for your suggestion.

I think he’s suggesting that one pair of sensors do up and they’re working and the other two do down and they seem faulty/damaged.

Seems to make sense. So perhaps only 2 need replacing….?

@vbk1975 which ones are which?

 

[vbk1975]

I think he’s suggesting that one pair of sensors do up and they’re working and the other two do down and they seem faulty/damaged.

Seems to make sense. So perhaps only 2 need replacing….?

@vbk1975 which ones are which?

Pump and ECU at Front, Closed sensors rearwards

Sensor Power from ECU is shared side to Side. So G491&G492 share power and so do G493&G494

@AlanDoddAlanDodd - if you have the sensors you removed and you think a couple of them maybe still usable (ie not swollen or rusty) you could swap them in on a temp basis to test.

 

[Resfeber]

View attachment 121645
Pump and ECU at Front, Closed sensors rearwards

Sensor Power from ECU is shared side to Side. So G491&G492 share power and so do G493&G494

@AlanDoddAlanDodd - if you have the sensors you removed and you think a couple of them maybe still usable (ie not swollen or rusty) you could swap them in on a temp basis to test.

Don’t know if this helps but @yossarian posted this image of the roof sensor wiring diagram and colour code

Post in thread '“Roof is Open” fault 1000, but roof is definitely closed'

“Roof is Open” fault 1000, but roof is definitely closed

Hi, Well I’m not having much luck this week; this is my second issue with the van this week :-( I know there are a few posts about this already. I actually had this problem last year and managed to resolve by clearing the error code. However, this time it’s not so straight forward. To clear...

vwcaliforniaclub.com

 

[AlanDoddAlanDodd]

I think he’s suggesting that one pair of sensors do up and they’re working and the other two do down and they seem faulty/damaged.

Seems to make sense. So perhaps only 2 need replacing….?

@vbk1975 which ones are which?

That makes sense thanks, I’ll de solder and re fit 2 of the original ones ant the rear of the rams (the tricky ones) and see what happens.

 

[AlanDoddAlanDodd]

View attachment 121645
Pump and ECU at Front, Closed sensors rearwards

Sensor Power from ECU is shared side to Side. So G491&G492 share power and so do G493&G494

@AlanDoddAlanDodd - if you have the sensors you removed and you think a couple of them maybe still usable (ie not swollen or rusty) you could swap them in on a temp basis to test.

Cracking diagram, thanks very much. Unfortunately none are swollen or split so I’ll refit 2 of the originals, test, then try the other 2 if necessary. If still no luck I’ll buy another 2 new ones. Surely this has got to work! Fingers crossed.

 

[vbk1975]

That makes sense thanks, I’ll de solder and re fit 2 of the original ones ant the rear of the rams (the tricky ones) and see what happens.

Sorry late response- you could just use electrical choc blocks as a temp connection and try the old sensors without soldering nor installing them on the rams. A chunk of ferrous metal next to the magnet side is enough. I use a metal tv bracket on my rig. The AN8 and AN9 readings are valid regardless of an error being flagged in the display.

 

[AlanDoddAlanDodd]

Sorry late response- you could just use electrical choc blocks as a temp connection and try the old sensors without soldering nor installing them on the rams. A chunk of ferrous metal next to the magnet side is enough. I use a metal tv bracket on my rig. The AN8 and AN9 readings are valid regardless of an error being flagged in the display.

It worked..!!!! Massive thank you to all you guys for your help and encouragement and depth of knowledge, absolutely awesome. I refitted an original “front” sensor to the offside rear and it still didn’t work. I fitted the other original front sensor to the nearside rear and it worked. I’ve been testing it for the last couple of days and it seems to be behaving itself. I just need to get back in there and make the wiring looms good and permanent now. So I either killed the sensor by wiring it the wrong way round or it was just faulty as the others were fine. Anyway you guys have saved me a fortune, the 4 sensors plus postage only cost me £65, happy days!!
Thanks again to everyone that helped. Alan.