Fridge not working

[Scotclimb]

Hi again. My fridge doesn’t work on either leisure battery or hook up. Aux heater on ly gives heat out on hook up. I’ve just done the earth shunt hoping this would solve it but no joy. I thought on hook up it would still work? But having read other posts. If leisure battery or batteries are gone would this still make the fridge fail to work. I here a click at the fridge but it shuts straight off again. I’ve replaced the 50 amp cube fuse on rear leisure battery too. I’m rather confused. Any advice would be great. It’s on hook up now outside garage, hoping a night of charging the batteries will help? Thanks

 

[Stu@rt]

Hi, as I understand both appliances run from the leisure batteries and the only role EHU is performing is powering the charger which replenishes the voltage stored in your batteries. What voltages are you seeing from your batteries? Both appliances will not work once voltage drops below 11.5v ish.

 

[Scotclimb]

Hi, as I understand both appliances run from the leisure batteries and the only role EHU is performing is powering the charger which replenishes the voltage stored in your batteries. What voltages are you seeing from your batteries? Both appliances will not work once voltage drops below 11.5v ish.

Do you mean the reading on the controller unit or test with multimeter? Thanks for the reply

 

[WelshGas]

Do you mean the reading on the controller unit or test with multimeter? Thanks for the reply

Either will do. The Control Panel Voltage is accurate but the %reading is an iffy calculation.

Also check the Control Panel diagnostic menu.

For those of you who don't know, if you ever get any problems with roof stuck or any other error say with the heater or fridge, you are able to access the hidden menu in your control panel as used by the VW Engineers.

Access as follows:



1. Hold down the centre of the rotary button together with the menu button (button below with the squares on it)

2. You will get the hidden menu.

3. Rotate the rotary button to get to "VW diagnose" and select this by pressing on the centre of the rotary button.

4. If no errors are present it will display "no errors"

5. If Errors are present then a list of errors will appear

6. Press the centre of the rotary button again to delete all the errors

7. Repeat process above just to check that errors have dissapeared!

8. Re-configure the time and date if neccesary.



Any problems should be resolved assuming these are Electronic and not Mechanical.





Error Codes from Control Panel.





1 = 1 = Pop-up roof

2 = 2 = Plumbing Heating

3 = 3 = Cool box Cooler

4 = 4 = Sewage wastewater

5 = 5 = Fresh water

6 = 6 = Outside temperature

7 = 7 = Battery

Error Code Defect Fault

1010 1010 Short-circuit to (earth) roof

1001 1001 Fuse / short circuit to (plus+) roof

1100 1100 Short-circuit output Roof "on"

1101 1101 Fuse roof "to"

1110 1110 Short-circuit output Roof "to"

1111 1111 Fuse starting Roof "to"

2100 2100 Short-circuit output heating on / off

2101 2101 Fuse output heating on / off

2001 2001 Interrupt input heating 30

3100 3100 Short-circuit output coolbox

3101 3101 Fuse interrupt output coolbox

3001 3001-J698-cooler input error "Active"

3010 3010 Short-circuit input icebox "actual temperature"

3011 3011 Interrupt or fuse input icebox "actual temperature"

4000 4000 Short-circuit to ground water level sensor

4001 4001 Fuse circuit to plus water level sensor failure

5000 5000 Short-circuit to ground water level sensor

5001 5001 Short circuit to plus water level sensor failure

6000 6000 Short-circuit to ground temperature sensor or for outdoor temperature

6001 6001 Fuse / short circuit to plus two temperature sensors for outside temperature

7001 7001 interrupt input interrupt input D +

 

[Scotclimb]

Hi, as I understand both appliances run from the leisure batteries and the only role EHU is performing is powering the charger which replenishes the voltage stored in your batteries. What voltages are you seeing from your batteries? Both appliances will not work once voltage drops below 11.5v ish.

This is the controller unit reading. It’s been on hook up for over an hour.

 

[WelshGas]

This is the controller unit reading. It’s been on hook up for over an hour.

View attachment 85606

What is the Control Panel voltage at least 1 hr after disconnecting mains voltage.?

 

[Scotclimb]

What is the Control Panel voltage at least 1 hr after disconnecting mains voltage.?

Not sure yet I’ll leave it overnight and get back with that info in the morning, but I was just checking both leisure batteries with my multimeter and the one under passenger seat was 14.4 and tge rear cupboard one was 14.7. Whilst under tge passenger seat I checked tge big 80amp fuse and 40 amp one which look fine. But the control panel is now reading 14.7. Should this rise more and what should I expect after disconnecting tge hook up tomorrow morning and leaving it an hour?? Thanks again welshgas

 

[WelshGas]

Not sure yet I’ll leave it overnight and get back with that info in the morning, but I was just checking both leisure batteries with my multimeter and the one under passenger seat was 14.4 and tge rear cupboard one was 14.7. Whilst under tge passenger seat I checked tge big 80amp fuse and 40 amp one which look fine. But the control panel is now reading 14.7. Should this rise more and what should I expect after disconnecting tge hook up tomorrow morning and leaving it an hour?? Thanks again welshgas

Your reading the Mains Charger voltage at the moment. Once the charger is off then you will be reading the battery voltage.
Tomorrow check the Control Panel voltage - both batteries in parallel.
Then disconnect the Rear battery red lead.Measure voltage of rear battery. Measure voltage of front battery between the disconnected red lead and the black negative pole of the rear battery.

Reconnect red lead.

 

[Scotclimb]

Your reading the Mains Charger voltage at the moment. Once the charger is off then you will be reading the battery voltage.
Tomorrow check the Control Panel voltage - both batteries in parallel.
Then disconnect the Rear battery red lead.Measure voltage of rear battery. Measure voltage of front battery between the disconnected red lead and the black negative pole of the rear battery.

Reconnect red lead.

Ok will do. If tge leisure batteries are done would the hook not override them and tge fridge would then work ? Or is tge fridge relying on the leisure batteries as well as hook up? Thanks

 

[WelshGas]

Ok will do. If tge leisure batteries are done would the hook not override them and tge fridge would then work ? Or is tge fridge relying on the leisure batteries as well as hook up? Thanks

If the Leisure Batteries are failing then the fridge should work when the Mains Charger is on.
Check the Control Panel Diagnostics and clear any codes, then retry the fridge.

 

[Scotclimb]

If the Leisure Batteries are failing then the fridge should work when the Mains Charger is on.
Check the Control Panel Diagnostics and clear any codes, then retry the fridge.

Just done the be diagnostic but says no errors

 

[Scotclimb]

If the Leisure Batteries are failing then the fridge should work when the Mains Charger is on.
Check the Control Panel Diagnostics and clear any codes, then retry the fridge.

I here a clicking at the fridge when I attempt to switch it on. Don’t know if this helps narrow it down??

 

[WelshGas]

I here a clicking at the fridge when I attempt to switch it on. Don’t know if this helps narrow it down??

When did it stop working? Any problems before?

 

[Scotclimb]

When did it stop working? Any problems before?not sure we’ve only owned the van for three weeks. Never had time to check the fridge when we bought it. Silly move but my problem now. Just want to get it working again. Strang how tge aux heater only gives out heat when on hook up or engine running. Just blows cold air on leisure batteries??

 

[WelshGas]

When did it stop working? Any problems before?

If the Fridge is faulty then there could be a number of reasons and these seem to be the go to company.
They have a Diagnosing Document to help diagnose the fault. They also carry out repairs etc. A number of Forum members have found them very helpful.
Don‘t bother with VW. All they would do is replace at a price.

12/24 DC Refrigeration - Penguin Refrigeration

For technical help and support for an existing 12v or 24v fridge or freezer for your motorhome or campervan see FAQs or check out our troubleshooting videos

penguinfrigo.co.uk

 

[Scotclimb]

If the Fridge is faulty then there could be a number of reasons and these seem to be the go to company.
They have a Diagnosing Document to help diagnose the fault. They also carry out repairs etc. A number of Forum members have found them very helpful.
Don‘t bother with VW. All they would do is replace at a price.

12/24 DC Refrigeration - Penguin Refrigeration

For technical help and support for an existing 12v or 24v fridge or freezer for your motorhome or campervan see FAQs or check out our troubleshooting videos

penguinfrigo.co.uk

Thanks I’ll give them a try

 

[Scotclimb]

Hi welshgas. This is tge control panel after an hour without hookup
Done tge test on both battery

Your reading the Mains Charger voltage at the moment. Once the charger is off then you will be reading the battery voltage.
Tomorrow check the Control Panel voltage - both batteries in parallel.
Then disconnect the Rear battery red lead.Measure voltage of rear battery. Measure voltage of front battery between the disconnected red lead and the black negative pole of the rear battery.

Reconnect red lead.

s as you asked. Both reading around 14.74

 

[Scotclimb]

Sorry not 14.74

Hi welshgas. This is tge control panel after an hour without hookup
Done tge test on both battery

s as you asked. Both reading around 14.74

View attachment 85630

but 12.47

 

[WelshGas]

If fully charged the Co

Sorry not 14.74

but 12.47

If fully charged the Control Panel should show 12.7+ v.
I presume the fridge won't start.
Does Parking Heater fire up and run. Set it to a high level.

 

[Scotclimb]

If fully charged the Co

If fully charged the Control Panel should show 12.7+ v.
I presume the fridge won't start.
Does Parking Heater fire up and run. Set it to a high level.

Tge fridge still not working I still here tge click so assume everything is working to tge point of the fridge? Tge heater only gives heat on hook up or engine on. Blows cold air otherwise

 

[WelshGas]

Tge fridge still not working I still here tge click so assume everything is working to tge point of the fridge? Tge heater only gives heat on hook up or engine on. Blows cold air otherwise

What happens to the Control Panel voltage when trying to start the Parking Heater on the Leisure Batteries Only, no charging, No engine running?

 

[Scotclimb]

What happens to the Control Panel voltage when trying to start the Parking Heater on the Leisure Batteries Only, no charging, No engine running?

Here is a before and after heater is turned on. But we never get heat on leisure batteries just blowing cold air

 

[WelshGas]

Here is a before and after heater is turned on. But we never get heat on leisure batteries just blowing cold air

View attachment 85646

View attachment 85647

1. On the second picture, a voltage of 12.5 v , the current draw should be less than 0.4amps, unless you have something plugged into a 12v socket or camping lights on.
2. The first picture, voltage 12v and current draw 14amps. My parking heater draws upto 17+amps when starting up and powering the Glow plug. BUT the battery voltage has dropped a lot which leads me to believe the Leisure Batteries have had it, especially as the Parking Heater starts up and gives heat when the engine is running or on Mains hookup.

So, I’m afraid you maybe looking at changing the leisure batteries if you plan to camp off grid. If you are always going to be on EHU then there is no hurry.

I think the fridge may have a separate problem.

 

[Scotclimb]

Here is a before and after heater is turned on. But we never get heat on leisure batteries just blowing cold air

View attachment 85646

View attachment 85647

1. On the second picture, a voltage of 12.5 v , the current draw should be less than 0.4amps, unless you have something plugged into a 12v socket or camping lights on.
2. The first picture, voltage 12v and current draw 14amps. My parking heater draws upto 17+amps when starting up and powering the Glow plug. BUT the battery voltage has dropped a lot which leads me to believe the Leisure Batteries have had it, especially as the Parking Heater starts up and gives heat when the engine is running or on Mains hookup.

So, I’m afraid you maybe looking at changing the leisure batteries if you plan to camp off grid. If you are always going to be on EHU then there is no hurry.

I think the fridge may have a separate problem.

Thanks again. I’ve been reading about a fridge controller unit sometimes fails. But I’m not one for replacing parts unless I know tgere gone. With the drop in voltage from 70%to20% when the heater is turned on is this because the battery’s are shot? I can cope with the heater going on to sites with ehu but I’m annoyed I can’t get to the bottom of the fridge issue?? Can’t go away without a fridge!!

 

[Scotclimb]

1. On the second picture, a voltage of 12.5 v , the current draw should be less than 0.4amps, unless you have something plugged into a 12v socket or camping lights on.
2. The first picture, voltage 12v and current draw 14amps. My parking heater draws upto 17+amps when starting up and powering the Glow plug. BUT the battery voltage has dropped a lot which leads me to believe the Leisure Batteries have had it, especially as the Parking Heater starts up and gives heat when the engine is running or on Mains hookup.

So, I’m afraid you maybe looking at changing the leisure batteries if you plan to camp off grid. If you are always going to be on EHU then there is no hurry.

I think the fridge may have a separate problem.

1. On the second picture, a voltage of 12.5 v , the current draw should be less than 0.4amps, unless you have something plugged into a 12v socket or camping lights on.
2. The first picture, voltage 12v and current draw 14amps. My parking heater draws upto 17+amps when starting up and powering the Glow plug. BUT the battery voltage has dropped a lot which leads me to believe the Leisure Batteries have had it, especially as the Parking Heater starts up and gives heat when the engine is running or on Mains hookup.

So, I’m afraid you maybe looking at changing the leisure batteries if you plan to camp off grid. If you are always going to be on EHU then there is no hurry.

I think the fridge may have a separate problem.

Tge second picture is tge aux heater on. Tge first one is with nothing on