Remove sliding door panel?

[steve_b]

Good job. I sanded the latch to make it work as it was sooo tight (2008 SE)

I wonder if they absorb moisture or swell with age or something (or the metal bit swells with rust...)

 

[MarkRichardson]

Good job. I sanded the latch to make it work as it was sooo tight (2008 SE)

I wonder if they absorb moisture or swell with age or something (or the metal bit swells with rust...)

Might have to consider a slight sanding job if it happens again! Would expect a more robust mechanism but one of those Cali things I guess! Thanks for letting me know your solution

 

[briwy]

Get some lubrication into the lock assembly while you have the card off. The rod that comes down from the internal door handle is a known weak point and can fail if the lock gets stiff.

 

[WestieBrian11]

Thanks for the update Mark. Just spent my Saturday using this thread to fix 'Table in the Door' issue on my 2006 LHD model. Seems odd that VW got the design wrong on the early models like mine - Then updated it to still go wrong on the later models like you have. They moved the relase handle further up the door card and re-designed the mechanism to seemingly function just as badly as the old one did. Mine is okay now thanks to all the help above.

 

[MarkRichardson]

Thanks for the update Mark. Just spent my Saturday using this thread to fix 'Table in the Door' issue on my 2006 LHD model. Seems odd that VW got the design wrong on the early models like mine - Then updated it to still go wrong on the later models like you have. They moved the relase handle further up the door card and re-designed the mechanism to seemingly function just as badly as the old one did. Mine is okay now thanks to all the help above.

View attachment 111362

So true that they design things to be just as bad on later editions! This was just a number of self 'fixes' I've had to undertake which still astounds me for something that costs so much! Glad to hear you got things sorted and the thread was of help.

 

[beachbrewer]

I have the same issue as previous posters. Previous advice noted about removing the entire trim, however:
1. where are the 4 screws at the bottom? If they are behind the small trim along the bottom, I can't seem to prize that bit of trim off to access them
2. the main door panel is tucked in behind the window trim at the top - how do I get it out from behind the window trim without removing the window trim?
3. is it possible to do all of this with the door closed? As I can't seem to get the top right bit (looking from the inside) out when the door is shut.
This can obviously all be done without taking the entire door off its hinges (that was my next move!) but a couple of specific bits of guidance on the points above would really be appreciated!

 

[steve_b]

unless it has changed.

1) open the sliding door, lie on your back on the floor with your head under the door and you will see the screws

2) it just kind of wiggled out I think

3) absolutely no, you need to open the door to get the trim off ( but obviously don't slide it away ) . no need to remove the door, that is the path to madness

 

[MarkRichardson]

It was a little while ago that I did mine but from what I recall:
1- I didn't have 4 'screws' at the bottom, there were two 'christmas tree' yellow retaining clips on each bottom corner, these could be seen lying on the ground underneath the door when open.
2 - once you start working round from bottom to top, popping the retaining clips as you do, you should then be able to see how and where the trim starts, ends and is fixed.
3 - don't remove the door! It need to be done with the door open slightly but that does make access to all points quite tricky but not impossible.
Worth noting - some of the yellow retaining clips broke while doing this as needed to use some force to remove the trim and get to the mechanisms. I'd suggest getting a few in if needed ahead of the job, just in case.
Hope that helps and good luck!

 

[Perfectos]

dealer removed my door panel to change door lock under warranty, they actually broke the door trim and didn’t replace various broken clips, so be careful removing the trim. (Panel had to be plastic welded to fix it )

I have a photo somewhere of the reverse of the door panel, showing the clip positions, I will try to find it and post it here.

 

[Perfectos]

Here you go

rear of the panel





Clip at the bottom both side looking upward lying on my back



this photo was lifted from another thread (fixing the table clip in mech)


the red arrow points to where the dealer broke the original weld (top is joined to the bottom section )and had to be repaired by the dealer, so be careful when working to remove the top of the panel

 

[steve_b]

I have just been out and taken a picture - here is mine , 3 of the 4 screws arrowed. You can see I am lying on the floor looking at the bottom of the door. If you don't have the screws then happy days , I guess you just need to start pulling the trim off there somehow.

Actually looking at that picture looks like I never put the screws back

 

[beachbrewer]

Thanks everyone - that's really helpful. Will report back with success / failure in due course!

 

[Max-Felix]

This might help:

 

[Kickboxer]

Thanks for this. Sorted mine today by reading this thread.

 

[karliskarelkovs]

Hello everyone,
hoping someone might know - I have removed the side door panel twice to work on the door lock mechanism but both times I have struggled to locate where to put a rubber buffer. The part number is 7h5867097 but I can't find any exploding diagrams or door panels with it fitted. Does anyone know where it would go?

 

[karliskarelkovs]

Hello everyone,
hoping someone might know - I have removed the side door panel twice to work on the door lock mechanism but both times I have struggled to locate where to put a rubber buffer. The part number is 7h5867097 but I can't find any exploding diagrams or door panels with it fitted. Does anyone know where it would go?

View attachment 129955

After googling various part numbers I was able to find an exploding diagram from the previous generation and it appears that there should be 2 of them - they go on both sides along the bottom rail (where the table normally sits)

 

[Emil Silenhag]

Yes, the rubber buffer goes in the bottom rail. The table will rest in it, preventing rattle and secure it…

 

[Nacs]

Thanks for the update Mark. Just spent my Saturday using this thread to fix 'Table in the Door' issue on my 2006 LHD model. Seems odd that VW got the design wrong on the early models like mine - Then updated it to still go wrong on the later models like you have. They moved the relase handle further up the door card and re-designed the mechanism to seemingly function just as badly as the old one did. Mine is okay now thanks to all the help above.

View attachment 111362

Hi Brian,

I have exactly the same vehicle, year 2007 and LHD and have the dreaded table latch issue. Can I ask if your door panel had the 4 torque screws along the bottom?

Also, the small rectangular part on RHS of door, is that covering up a screw, so needs prising off in order to access it?

Looking through this chat it seems that some have screws and others don’t. Just feeling along the bottom I think I detected some.

Many thanks,
Neil

 

[steve_b]

Also, the small rectangular part on RHS of door, is that covering up a screw, so needs prising off in order to access it?

That small panel covers access to the middle hinge runner. Pretty sure you don't need to remove it for this

 

[Nacs]

That small panel covers access to the middle hinge runner. Pretty sure you don't need to remove it for this

Cheers Steve, one thing less!

 

[Nacs]

Cheers Steve, one thing less!

Hi all,
So this is my experience after having been through the process described here. Firstly thanks to all who have posted photos and descriptions about how to remove door panel and possible remedies. I did the following:

1) removed screw(s), in my case just one, rest left out I’m guessing by previous attempt to repair
2) removed panel using bicicly tyre levers, they worked pretty well, starting bottom left hand corner and working round and up as recommended here
3) removed latch and filed off a little on both sides but not the back, the greased and reinstalled to check it open and closed smoothly. Filing freed it up just enough for it to return nicely.
4) reinstalled panel only to find that the plastic handle used to push the metal flange was folded inwards and upwards! As much as I tried to force it back into place by pulling on the panel, impossible. So please make sure this plastic piece is in the right place as you move the panel up to engage. I lifted the metal flange upwards whilst I put the panel in place to make sure it was above the plastic lever. There is so much flex in the panel here that in the past I forced the plastic to go up and into the panel, which generated the need to do this whole job. Anyway, on second attempt and miraculously not breaking any plugs, I got the panel back on and all functioning.

So, after 18 years it finally functions OK. Can’t believe that VW haven’t resolved a very simple issue over all these years, making that rubber stop just too tight. Frustrating that we all have to spend time to fix it. At least mine is an older version but that this is still happening to much more recent models escapes me.

Without this forum I would not have even tried, so again a big thank you to all who have contributed!

 

[Nacs]

Hi all,
So this is my experience after having been through the process described here. Firstly thanks to all who have posted photos and descriptions about how to remove door panel and possible remedies. I did the following:

1) removed screw(s), in my case just one, rest left out I’m guessing by previous attempt to repair
2) removed panel using bicicly tyre levers, they worked pretty well, starting bottom left hand corner and working round and up as recommended here
3) removed latch and filed off a little on both sides but not the back, the greased and reinstalled to check it open and closed smoothly. Filing freed it up just enough for it to return nicely.
4) reinstalled panel only to find that the plastic handle used to push the metal flange was folded inwards and upwards! As much as I tried to force it back into place by pulling on the panel, impossible. So please make sure this plastic piece is in the right place as you move the panel up to engage. I lifted the metal flange upwards whilst I put the panel in place to make sure it was above the plastic lever. There is so much flex in the panel here that in the past I forced the plastic to go up and into the panel, which generated the need to do this whole job. Anyway, on second attempt and miraculously not breaking any plugs, I got the panel back on and all functioning.

So, after 18 years it finally functions OK. Can’t believe that VW haven’t resolved a very simple issue over all these years, making that rubber stop just too tight. Frustrating that we all have to spend time to fix it. At least mine is an older version but that this is still happening to much more recent models escapes me.

Without this forum I would not have even tried, so again a big thank you to all.