Replacing leisure batteries

Okay so idiot question about replacing batteries. Two Varta LA80 arrived. It says in a leaflet to remove transit plugs. I can’t see any transit plugs (see photos to follow) can anyone advise? Question 2 does it matter which side I vent and do I need to block the opposite hole? Sorry if these are daft questions but I have never done anything like this before. 027D9272-91EB-4D69-BE66-3D25286EA849.jpeg
17A75404-F03E-4A7B-9126-E877B0A4CD94.jpeg72A68679-7720-42C7-9171-5541A9150CAC.jpeg
 
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Okay so idiot question about replacing batteries. Two Varta LA80 arrived. It says in a leaflet to remove transit plugs. I can’t see any transit plugs (see photos to follow) can anyone advise? Question 2 does it matter which side I vent and do I need to block the opposite hole? Sorry if these are daft questions but I have never done anything like this before. View attachment 55506View attachment 55506View attachment 55507View attachment 55508View attachment 55506View attachment 55507View attachment 55507View attachment 55508
Transit plugs usually in those holes on the end, top middle.
 
One side should vent to outside the cabin and the other should be blocked off.
 
So I contacted Tayna who supplied the new batteries and they have told me that these Varta LA80 are “valve regulated” and don’t therefore need a breather tube attached. Has anyone else heard of this ?
No, but I would still plug the breather tube in on the same side as the old battery and the plug in the opposite side. The gas would still be vented I suppose so better out than in.
 
So I contacted Tayna who supplied the new batteries and they have told me that these Varta LA80 are “valve regulated” and don’t therefore need a breather tube attached. Has anyone else heard of this ?
See paragraph 16 in the HSE document below
 

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I was always told when I worked at auto electricians to disconnect negative first, when installing new battery connect positive first
Not that car will explode because of that, but the reason is pretty simple. If you remove positive first and it touches the metal body by accident you have a short. So safer to simply instruct removing negative first and disarming whole car body from the circuit for that exact battery.
 
cheaper, same size with more capacity at 100ah and 5 year warranty.
I would consider that capacity as a pretty rough measure, as it depends on loads and various conditions. So different manufacturers might set a maximum possible in ideal conditions as a nominal.
One of the methods is to check the battery weight. If batteries weigh the same and capacity is 20% different, one of the manufacturers simply marks it more generously ;)
 
I am also looking to replace my leisure batteries as they show 50% after charging from the hook up for a week, this thread is amazing.

My van is a 2012 2.0 180 California.

Is there a new recommendation for the best battery?
Or could this be that pesky fuse on the top of the rear wardrobe battery?
 
I am also looking to replace my leisure batteries as they show 50% after charging from the hook up for a week, this thread is amazing.

My van is a 2012 2.0 180 California.

Is there a new recommendation for the best battery?
Or could this be that pesky fuse on the top of the rear wardrobe battery?
1. Are the batteries original?
2. Check the cube fuse.
3. ignore the % calculation as it is very iffy.
4. What is the voltage shown on the Control Panel while on mains hookup and at least 30 mins after disconnecting mains hookup?
5. Reset Control Panel

Check Control Panel Diagnostics.

Control Panel Off and wait 30 secs

Control Panel On

Press and Hold R lower button and then press Control Knob for 5 secs.

New Hidden Menu . Scroll to VW Diagnostics.

If there are any codes shown, take note and then Reset/Clear.

Return to Main Menu.



Switch Off Control Panel using L lower button. Wait 30 secs and Switch On.IMG_1532.jpeg
 
16.8v front connected
15.4v rear battery through the glass cube fuse connected

Both batteries varta 7P0 915 105A AGM

No errors on VW diagnostics
Panel now shows 40% 12.0v
 
Last year I replaced the car battery which was also a varta with a boshe
 
16.8v front connected
15.4v rear battery through the glass cube fuse connected

Both batteries varta 7P0 915 105A AGM

No errors on VW diagnostics
Panel now shows 40% 12.0v
I'm not sure about those individual battery voltages because they are abnormal..

The % reading is an iffy calculation but the Control Panel voltage is accurate.

SoC-AGM.jpg
 
I have a battery tester arriving tomorrow which does a heath check for the battery including CCA test etc so will verify with that tomorrow.
Also to note I have a noco genius5 and when charging normal car batteries I get up to 16v when testing but it drops to 12.8v under load.
 
I have a spare glass fuse I may just swap that out for a quick win ?
 
Swapped out the 75a cube fuse which looked fine if not a little oxidated, same result 40% 12v on the computer.
 
I got updates..
After replacing the oxidised Cube fuse I hooked up the mains and left it on overnight and disconnected this morning, now I have the computer saying 100% 12.8v.
 
After 3 hours of sitting the voltage is now reading 12.5v 90% which is where was before so I think that's fixed.
 
Screenshot 2024-05-26 104131.png
Oxidisation on the old fuse making improper contact, not blown though so will clean it up and keep it as a spare.
 

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