Spare wheel - which way up?

willwander

willwander

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T6 Ocean 150
Refitting spare wheel. Strange question.
It’s a 17 inch steel, which way up does it go, spokes facing up or down?
 
I had my spare spokes down and positioned with the valve towards the rear so I could check the pressure without removing the wheel.

Alan
 
Thanks. Couldn’t remember how it came off but went with spoke side up, think that may have been how they came from factory?
Not a bad idea about tyre pressure check tho.

Good opportunity to re grease bolts.

First time I’ve had spare fully on and off in years of van ownership, wouldn’t fancy doing it at the side of M6.
 
I had my spare spokes down and positioned with the valve towards the rear so I could check the pressure without removing the wheel.

Alan
This.

Two advantages:
1. Check pressure without removing the wheel.
2. The part of the steel wheel that rusts first is the narrow well area on the top of the wheel (marked in RED in the image below). There is a weld here. Mounting it with this area facing downwards helps to reduce water pooling and rust build-up. At the rear side of the green circled area (image below), a bit of water pooling will not have a weld to rust.

1662463349335.png
 
Damn, both ways make perfect sense. Am I going to have to swap it now because it was a PITA to do lol
 
Damn, both ways make perfect sense. Am I going to have to swap it now lol
but remember ... either way ... with all good intentions of checking air and all, unless you get a puncture, it will be like the forgotten child ... I have not checked the pressure in the spare for over a year now. But I know that (hope that :Nailbiting ) all is well down under ...
 
Manual is not much help.
Although I never realised there is a hole in the bracket to put the wheel wrench handle into which helps you lift the wheel back up.
Fig 233 below
890494A0-F5CB-4BDD-8B60-B127C119DC12.jpeg
 
This.

Two advantages:
1. Check pressure without removing the wheel.
2. The part of the steel wheel that rusts first is the narrow well area on the top of the wheel (marked in RED in the image below). There is a weld here. Mounting it with this area facing downwards helps to reduce water pooling and rust build-up. At the rear side of the green circled area (image below), a bit of water pooling will not have a weld to rust.

View attachment 98892
Get an alloy spare that matches exisiting wheels, then no need to worry about rust.
 
This.

Two advantages:
1. Check pressure without removing the wheel.
2. The part of the steel wheel that rusts first is the narrow well area on the top of the wheel (marked in RED in the image below). There is a weld here. Mounting it with this area facing downwards helps to reduce water pooling and rust build-up. At the rear side of the green circled area (image below), a bit of water pooling will not have a weld to rust.

View attachment 98892
Another advantage of spokes down, is that you can then wrap up a proper set of tools and jump leads etc. in a rubble sack and put it in the" bowl" that the wheel makes.
 
If it helps I’ve just been out to check mine: this is how it came from the factory

52F29E28-4D92-4475-A309-204C415840C5.jpeg
Edit : looks surprisingly clean under there after four and a half years !
 
Manual is not much help.
Although I never realised there is a hole in the bracket to put the wheel wrench handle into which helps you lift the wheel back up.
Fig 233 below
View attachment 98893
and you haven't paid attention to @WelshGas either, as he once explained this very fact, noughty!
I remember because at the time I didn't know either and I haven't got around reading the manual yet... ;)
 
read the manual...?

obviously some kind of sick joke. anyhow, mine is whatever way up I put it - although I did have trauma in getting it out to check it which I certainly would not have managed at the roadside - so glad I did and put it back with some copper grease on the threads.

About time to repeat the process for this year I guess, assuming someone hasn't stolen it in the meantime
 
I've changed wheels a couple of times roadside, it can be a lot quicker than waiting for recovery to arrive. Drove up with the wheel side requiring changing just on the edge of a curb. This gives that little extra space to add extraction.
Don't forget to use the wheel brace to help lifting the cage back into position, and have a practice at home first.
 
Or ditch the spare and get 18 / 19 / 20”’s ;)
And a rear tyre carrier, so it blocks your rear view mirror. Who needs to see what’s behind them? Keep moving forward’s
 
but remember ... either way ... with all good intentions of checking air and all, unless you get a puncture, it will be like the forgotten child ... I have not checked the pressure in the spare for over a year now. But I know that (hope that :Nailbiting ) all is well down under ...

We have different size winter and summer tyres, so we have to swop all 5 every half year. This makes sure the nuts and bolts do not come stuck :thumb
 
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