Stu@rt
Popped a 3M sticky dot/pimple/bump stop thing in the runner which probably should have been part of the design tbh. 5min job that might save £15-£20 in the long run.Maybe a screw, or even a lump of BlueTac in the slider.
Popped a 3M sticky dot/pimple/bump stop thing in the runner which probably should have been part of the design tbh. 5min job that might save £15-£20 in the long run.Maybe a screw, or even a lump of BlueTac in the slider.
Good idea. Job for tomorrow morning.Popped a 3M sticky dot/pimple/bump stop thing in the runner which probably should have been part of the design tbh. 5min job that might save £15-£20 in the long run.
So many of these left hand door catch issues @captain_ankles !!Huh. My 6.1 too. Sort of. The sticky-out bit on the handle seems OK, but there was a sticky-out bit on the receiver too, and that's fallen off. A stupidly tiny thin bit of plastic.
Result is much the same - door refuses to stay shut. Has anyone else encountered this?
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I put one of those 3m rubber bumpers in the runner, which didn't last one camping trip without coming unstuck. It has to be very precisely placed as too far to the right and the drawer won't open. There is only 3-4mm wriggle room. Blu tak might just be a better option tbh. Reluctant to put a self tapper in there as I am sure that will damage the bottom edge of the door in time.This has happened to me too. VW refused to repair it under warranty and charged me £12.
I couldn't understand how I'd managed to break it. Sounds from this like its the right hand door 'acting like a guillotine'. @Stuart could you let me know how you've prevented it happening again? lump of blue tac like Welshgas suggested?
So the problem is opening the right hand cupboard door too far?I put one of those 3m rubber bumpers in the runner, which didn't last one camping trip without coming unstuck. It has to be very precisely placed as too far to the right and the drawer won't open. There is only 3-4mm wriggle room. Blu tak might just be a better option tbh. Reluctant to put a self tapper in there as I am sure that will damage the bottom edge of the door in time.
We have a blob of blutak (about 5mm) at the end of the runner. But, i think the cause of damage is probably when you try to open the right hand door while the left hand door is not fully closed. Blutak or a screw will not help in this event.I put one of those 3m rubber bumpers in the runner, which didn't last one camping trip without coming unstuck. It has to be very precisely placed as too far to the right and the drawer won't open. There is only 3-4mm wriggle room. Blu tak might just be a better option tbh. Reluctant to put a self tapper in there as I am sure that will damage the bottom edge of the door in time.
Hi @captain_ankles The left hand kitchen catch can very easily be replaced without taking the kitchen apart!! 3 Torx screws and it’s off. New one self aligns in the aperture in the door. A tip is to put the three screws partially in the catch before refitting.Quick update. So the van is in heritage Bristol. Won’t replace it under warranty because ‘it’s broken’. Came up with a modest price to refit which I accepted.
24 hours later and I get a call saying they can’t do the job because the screws are hidden, and they’d need to remove the entire kitchen to get the fridge out. On the plus side they offered me the catch gratis.
I asked them to take another look, simply because it doesn’t make sense. Another call from them 5 mins later to say they’re asking VW what to do.
I’m not holding my breath…
Nonsense (and worrying - do Heritage Bristol even know what they're doing with a California?)Quick update. So the van is in heritage Bristol. Won’t replace it under warranty because ‘it’s broken’. Came up with a modest price to refit which I accepted.
24 hours later and I get a call saying they can’t do the job because the screws are hidden, and they’d need to remove the entire kitchen to get the fridge out. On the plus side they offered me the catch gratis.
I asked them to take another look, simply because it doesn’t make sense. Another call from them 5 mins later to say they’re asking VW what to do.
I’m not holding my breath…
Figured out the reason mine keeps breaking: the runners on the bottom of the cabinet have come loose. I’ll ask them to fix when I go in for the next service. In the meantime, the runners are held in place with a plastic shim..Nonsense (and worrying - do Heritage Bristol even know what they're doing with a California?)
Mine was replaced (for a fee) by Alan Day Hampstead. It is now broken again.
It was indeed broken by me - but how many breakages does it take to decide that it is mis-designed? I simply opened the door the wrong way...so technically their door broke their catch. Twice.
Had my second fixed under warranty tooAnd at last, a final update. It’s fixed. Heritage Bristol did the job under warranty, and only had to take the fridge out. And fix the screws they rounded off.
Anyway - no more rattles and I can remove the clothes peg keeping the door shut
Yep. That’s the classic way to break it, very easily done.I think i broke my cupboard handle because i had opened both doors at the same time. Then the right door smashed into the leftdoor and the "little hook" fell off!
VW will replace under warranty if you ask nicelyYep. That’s the classic way to break it, very easily done.
My dealer did. However I also repaired the original with Araldite some months ago and it’s still holding up. Kept the one from the dealer as a spare.VW will replace under warranty if you ask nicely
Maybe re-enforce the spare before you have to use it. Maybe an Araldite + metal brace.?My dealer did. However I also repaired the original with Araldite some months ago and it’s still holding up. Kept the one from the dealer as a spare.
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