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Why bother with 4 motion

Haldex has nothing to do with the rear axle. Amarok is completely different, has the system larger Audis have been equipped with since the 1980's, Torsen.

Haldex has nothing to do with the rear axle. Amarok is completely different, has the system larger Audis have been equipped with since the 1980's, Torsen.

I didn't say it did. Haldex is the system that distributes power between the front and rear axles.

The Amarok is available in two versions - selectable 4wd (using a mechanical centre diff lock) and permanent (as you say using the torsen system) I'd pick the selectable if buying that type of vehicle.
 
Zeratul. We too are going to Iceland next year. The engine air intake is only one thing to consider. The diesel heater intakes/exhausts, gearbox and diff breathers need modifying as these are all at a lower level than the engine air intake so more prone to damage. We already have air suspension so can raise the van but still need to sort out underbody protection. I agree the Seikel stuff is good but seems very expensive for what it is. I'm sure I can make up alloy protection for a damn site cheaper than that. Tow bar will be left in place together with the front towing eye.
I'm considering getting an old bonnet, chopping a hole in it and making up some form air intake. I can't see that it's necessary for it to be at roof level like the Seikel kit.
Has anybody got any more tips please for this kind of kit.
 
briwy, how much did you pay for your air suspension and what type is it?
I will of course balance the costs. It's my 4th visit to iceland, I've already seen quite some things. You cansee a lot of the highlands with just a good 4WD and 30-45cm of wade depth. The 45cm can be reached with vents, suspension and tyres. T5 4motion should be good enough, depends on the conditions. One can always rent a superjeep for a day or three, and pay for guesthouses, it'll be cheaper and safer.
On the french forum there are quite some california T5 stories from the highlands without any modifications at all. Just avoid the deep rivers..
 
Z
I'm considering getting an old bonnet, chopping a hole in it and making up some form air intake. I can't see that it's necessary for it to be at roof level like the Seikel kit.

The drive train air vent raise kit raises the wade depth from 30 cm to 40 cm. The snorkel to another 70 cm (not roof level... ), apart from other lift measures (suspension, bigger wheels). All according to Seikel, with whom we have discussed our plans for Iceland this summer at length. The snorkel has more to do with raising the engine air intake in dust situations (desert).
An alternative to the snorkel is the Terranger motor air intake raise kit, which stays under the bonnet. That may be more to your liking.

You can read about our changes to our 4Motion (also some Seikel stuff) elsewhere on this forum.
 
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BTW: I heard the rumour today that VW has acquired Seikel last week...
 
I have a T6 2WD on order as I feel confident enough to get out of most situations (with the right tyres on). However I got stuck behind a Q of vehicles getting out of a muddy field this weekend. I got out relatively easily in my 2WD manual BMW, just turn off the traction control and take it easy. Once on the road I went back to help the vehicles that were stuck and they were all automatics. My T6 is DSG, my first automatic so I now wonder whether I made the right choice. At least i can have a cuppa, keep warm, and go to sleep if I get stuck though.
 
Hi, where we live, in New Zealand, 4 motion is almost a must. Lots of twisty gravel roads, some not in best condition and during winter - June to October - heavy snow and ice is a certainty in the South Is. The 4 motion is peace of mind and usually avoids chains.You can read some of our California adventures here: www.imagesandwords.co.nz
 
I have a T6 2WD on order as I feel confident enough to get out of most situations (with the right tyres on). However I got stuck behind a Q of vehicles getting out of a muddy field this weekend. I got out relatively easily in my 2WD manual BMW, just turn off the traction control and take it easy. Once on the road I went back to help the vehicles that were stuck and they were all automatics. My T6 is DSG, my first automatic so I now wonder whether I made the right choice. At least i can have a cuppa, keep warm, and go to sleep if I get stuck though.
Just put the DSG box in Manual.
 
Just put the DSG box in Manual.
Putting it in manual doesn't give me a clutch pedal, my point was really about the ability to control the drive wheels and apply drive gently when you have two controls (accelerator and clutch) vs just an accelerator. It has to be superior in a manual vs an automatic.
 
my point was really about the ability to control the drive wheels and apply drive gently when you have two controls (accelerator and clutch) vs just an accelerator. It has to be superior in a manual vs an automatic.
I wouldn't worry too much.

When we did an off road drive training some time back (see elsewhere on this forum for a video), we were with two Haldex system cars amidst a field of classic Landrovers, Volvo Laplander and such. Haldex was represented by us with our 4Motion Cali (manual), and a Volvo stationcar with an automatic gearbox. To cut a long story short: apart from their bottom freedom, the Volvo stationcar outperformed everyone in every trial (with us a good second ;-).
They just couldn't do anything wrong! The Haldex system cuts in when a wheel starts slipping (that is something you have to get used to; in my Landrover days one would always try to just not slip...), but then all the electronics cut in. They couldn't accelerate too much (the system didn't allow them). They did every test right the first time. They had two young sons with them who had hoped for a day of excitement, but they were bored to death: just nothing went wrong with that car, it just drove through every test with the greatest ease, where we had the Landrovers deflate their tyres, use diff lock, low gear and everything, and still sometimes not make a slope in one run. Later that morning the two boys hopped over to a Landrover team: more was happening, not as boring as driving off road with their dad's automatic Haldex Volvo :-D
 
Putting it in manual doesn't give me a clutch pedal, my point was really about the ability to control the drive wheels and apply drive gently when you have two controls (accelerator and clutch) vs just an accelerator. It has to be superior in a manual vs an automatic.
On mine, the 180, it has sufficient torque in 1st, and an element of ant-stall, that I can just creep forward, even on a local 1:10 hill from a standing start. Don't need a clutch. Very similar to my Defender but then that could also tow 3.5 tons from scratch starting in 1st gear without touching the accelerator or clutch.
Also the DSG is not like normal Automatics , no torque converter.
 
Yes, much easier with a manual if you are stuck in snow. Then you can rock the vehicle back and forth using clutch. Probably a no issue with 4motion.
 
I wouldn't worry too much.

When we did an off road drive training some time back (see elsewhere on this forum for a video), we were with two Haldex system cars amidst a field of classic Landrovers, Volvo Laplander and such. Haldex was represented by us with our 4Motion Cali (manual), and a Volvo stationcar with an automatic gearbox. To cut a long story short: apart from their bottom freedom, the Volvo stationcar outperformed everyone in every trial (with us a good second ;-).
They just couldn't do anything wrong! The Haldex system cuts in when a wheel starts slipping (that is something you have to get used to; in my Landrover days one would always try to just not slip...), but then all the electronics cut in. They couldn't accelerate too much (the system didn't allow them). They did every test right the first time. They had two young sons with them who had hoped for a day of excitement, but they were bored to death: just nothing went wrong with that car, it just drove through every test with the greatest ease, where we had the Landrovers deflate their tyres, use diff lock, low gear and everything, and still sometimes not make a slope in one run. Later that morning the two boys hopped over to a Landrover team: more was happening, not as boring as driving off road with their dad's automatic Haldex Volvo :-D

Now I really wish I'd ordered a 4 Motion, thanks for the info though bvdbob
 
On mine, the 180, it has sufficient torque in 1st, and an element of ant-stall, that I can just creep forward, even on a local 1:10 hill from a standing start. Don't need a clutch. Very similar to my Defender but then that could also tow 3.5 tons from scratch starting in 1st gear without touching the accelerator or clutch.
Also the DSG is not like normal Automatics , no torque converter.

WelshGas, just read up about the DSG, clever bit of kit so maybe it will be OK, I thought it was just an automatic. I am now trying to remember what make of cars I helped push out of the muddy field. Pretty sure there were no VW's, Skoda's or SEAT's

PS I agree with you about the Doctors, can't say more, may get banned.
 
Putting it in manual doesn't give me a clutch pedal, my point was really about the ability to control the drive wheels and apply drive gently when you have two controls (accelerator and clutch) vs just an accelerator. It has to be superior in a manual vs an automatic.
And then, on another note: in any off road driving training they will teach you to leave the clutch alone as much as you can and rather use it as an "on/off" switch more than anything else. "Gently playing" with your clutch in off road circumstances will ruin your clutch plates pretty soon!
 
And then, on another note: in any off road driving training they will teach you to leave the clutch alone as much as you can and rather use it as an "on/off" switch more than anything else. "Gently playing" with your clutch in off road circumstances will ruin your clutch plates pretty soon!

Not really playing with the clutch, I agree you should leave it alone once its out, its more about making the initial bite as gentle as possible. Not much experience about driving in snow but about 6 years driving in the desert for a land seismic crew. So if anyone needs info on how to get safely down a 500ft sand dune give us a shout.
 
What to say about this video, I would say they try to proove that the VW is worse:
 
Not much experience about driving in snow but about 6 years driving in the desert for a land seismic crew. So if anyone needs info on how to get safely down a 500ft sand dune give us a shout.
Might take you up on that, one day! :thumb
 
I thought 4wd was a bit over the top for a Cali until I got stuck in a snowy forest car park on Sunday and had to be towed out!! To be fair it was a temporary car park at an MTB race but still wish I had 4wd for those 20mins being stuck!!
 
I think a couple of strips of old carpet maybe kept under the top mattress. Old desert trick.
 
I think a couple of strips of old carpet maybe kept under the top mattress. Old desert trick.
Fine if stuck in sand, but in mud? What do you do with them after?
 
Fine if stuck in sand, but in mud? What do you do with them after?


They do work in mud or snow but what ever you do don't stop to pick them up. Once you moving keep moving. Maybe send the wife back for them ?
 
The "Green Lobby" will be after you. ;)

You are very brave to send SWMBO to collect them!
 
The strips need to be about five foot long to be of any use otherwise the wheels just chuck them out, not quite as elegant as a 4 motion though, wish I'd added it to the list now, but carpet will have to suffice as an emergency get out now.
 
Do the same as you would do with sand ladders, tie a piece of string to them and attach them to the back of the vehicle so they just follow you put of the mess and you don't need to stop.

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