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92 California Battery Replacement advice

That's brilliant thank you, I did find this in my manual and managed to confirm that it was fuse three.

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I did however find this below in the battery compartment and it doesn't look original, anybody know what it was used for? I've only tucked it between the batteries to keep it way from the terminals.

20160130_165406.jpg 20160130_165359.jpg
 
That is item N162. I've never fully worked out what this is.
As you can see from my diagram, I'd written in Battery Monitor, then crossed it out.
Dan knows I think.
 
Ah yes. I knew what 'd scribbled on my diagram wasn't quite correct.

Temp sensor would be correct.
 
How do the "Exides" compare to the "Sonnenschein's" is there much difference in build quality and battery life span ?
 
same company I believe so probably identical.
 
Hi

I am a new on the forum but wanted to ask 2-3 years ago our philips charger blew in our t4 westfalia california - the guy we bought the van from said it's impossible to get the original units now so fitted an inverter - we lost the plug in symbol at that point. All seemed well but we don't seem to get long out of our leisure batteries at all now he is miles away friendly but not terribly helpful. It could just be we need new leisure batteries but how would I know ?

Finally what is the last call on batteries original gels or AMG

Many thanks
 
Firstly, need to find out what is in there. The charger failed, you say it has been replaced by an inverter, but these are not the same things.

A charger will take a 240v supply and charge the batteries. An inverter will take the 12v supply and convert to a 240v supply. It's easy to check what has been installed. Slide the bench seat all the way forward, undo the two screws on the lower panel under the fridge and pull out on the grate. Charger is under the fridge.

As a note, original chargers are available, although expensive in comparison to other chargers. There is a cheaper one available, that also has an output for the plug symbol. See the Westfalia Useful Information thread.

Do you charge from hookup? If so, for how long? A full day at least is required to fully charge the batteries (assuming 2 batteries from flat). Charging from the alternator will never give a full charge.

I replaced my batteries with Sonneschiens about 4 years ago, but if I had to replace them again I'd be looking at those Exides listed above.
 
Sorry absolutely a charger was fitted - if only i had known about this thread then !!!
I love my bestie and try to put back original whenever i can - i was gutted to be told that wasn't possible -- I should have done more research.

I will charge for a day on hook up at home and see what happens

Thanks
 
I managed to remove the control panel today. Although not but by inserting something into the holes in the front plate but by removing the interior cab light and compressing the retaining clips from the inside.

It looks like the DIP switches had not been changed by whoever had fitted the lead-acid batteries as they were still set for gel.
View attachment 11597

To check the DIP switches I had a German colleague translate page 10 from the control panel manual linked below.
http://westfaliat4.info/WestfaliaT4CentralElectronicUnit.pdf

<<<<Translated Text>>>>
It is necessary to adjust the parameters using the DIP switches. The switches are located at the back of the device.

DIP-switch Nr. Setting "OFF" Setting "ON"
1 one additional battery two additional batteries
2 battery type "GEL" battery type "Lead-Acid"
3 cold box / freezer cabinet fridge
4 degree Celsius degree Fahrenheit
<<<<<end>>>>

I hope this is useful to others and thanks to everyone for your help to improve my van.

Hi guys,

Another VWT4 owner with battery problem. I have a 140ah Westfalia gel battery and did the diagnostic test on the control panel. It said the battery was 1b. Am I right in thinking this is the wrong setting? and if so Dip switch 2....should it be up or down??? Any recommendations for a suitable replacement battery?
 
Hi guys,

Another VWT4 owner with battery problem. I have a 140ah Westfalia gel battery and did the diagnostic test on the control panel. It said the battery was 1b. Am I right in thinking this is the wrong setting? and if so Dip switch 2....should it be up or down??? Any recommendations for a suitable replacement battery?
Welcome on board.

Have you downloaded the control panel user manual from Westfaliainfo.co.uk ?

This will tell you which setting you need.

For a replacement I’d stick with original kit. Sonnenchein is now Exide.
 
Welcome on board.

Have you downloaded the control panel user manual from Westfaliainfo.co.uk ?

This will tell you which setting you need.

For a replacement I’d stick with original kit. Sonnenchein is now Exide.


So switch 1 should be down as you have 1 battery. Switch 2 should be down if it’s a Sonnenchein and up if it’s a Deta.
 
Wow, impressed with the fast response. Cheers guys.
Going try and get the panel off and have a check. Getting cold up here in the frozen North and need my trusty heater!
 
So switch 1 should be down as you have 1 battery. Switch 2 should be down if it’s a Sonnenchein and up if it’s a Deta.

Sorry for my ignorance but the battery is labelled "westfalia original". Is Sonnerchein and Deta makes of battery and if so what would the "westfalia" battery be?
 
Sorry for my ignorance but the battery is labelled "westfalia original". Is Sonnerchein and Deta makes of battery and if so what would the "westfalia" battery be?


Dip switches are as suggested. Think I was clutching at straws. Going to have to bite the bullet and spend some cash on a new battery.
 
What actually is the issue?
 
Hi Sidepod,

Battery show full bars and above 12V but when you load it with the heater/fridge or lights voltage quickly drops to 10.5V. I left the van with out using it for about 3 weeks but battery was working up until then. Plugged it into the mains and left for 48 hours but problem still there (control panel show 14.4V on mains). Heater/fridge work off mains but when you turn the heat on voltage dropped to 10.4V before climbing back up to 14V. I checked the dip switches and they are all in the down position so I think thats correct? I believe its the original battery (Exide G140) and therefore been in the van since it was converted by Westfalia in 2003.
 
Ok you will see a big-ish dip in voltage when switching on the heater due to the initial load of the glow plug. Once the ignition phase is over the load drops of and the voltage will come back up.

That said it does suggest the battery is a tad second hand.

Gel batteries take a good few days to fully charge. I’d give it a few more days on hookup before reaching for the wallet.
 
Ok you will see a big-ish dip in voltage when switching on the heater due to the initial load of the glow plug. Once the ignition phase is over the load drops of and the voltage will come back up.

That said it does suggest the battery is a tad second hand.

Gel batteries take a good few days to fully charge. I’d give it a few more days on hookup before reaching for the wallet.


Thanks. I have left it for up to 4 days and still have the same fault.
 
Thanks. I have left it for up to 4 days and still have the same fault.
If the battery is indeed the original from 2003, then I think 14 years use is good going and a replacement is the way forward.
 
Fitted the new leisures this evening. Everything seems Ok, heater working but interior florescent lighting have stopped working. Would anyone know the fuse to check please?
Should be fuse no 3, 7.5A, behind driver or passenger seat. That also controls 12V socket.
 
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