Auxiliary Heating - T6.1

Hi Stuart, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t! If I can’t get heat continuously or heat immediately to work then the key fob usually does but only for under two hours and if I use it in the evening and again in the morning and don’t drive anywhere it won’t work the next evening. What are ‘rules’ about how many times each of the different settings work without moving? The manual is not helpful..! Thank you Holly
Hi Holly, take a look at Will's @itguy video here.
Explains the nuances really well.

 
Hi Stuart, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t! If I can’t get heat continuously or heat immediately to work then the key fob usually does but only for under two hours and if I use it in the evening and again in the morning and don’t drive anywhere it won’t work the next evening. What are ‘rules’ about how many times each of the different settings work without moving? The manual is not helpful..! Thank you Holly
The key fob uses Heat immediately and you will be limited to the time specified in Max Runtime. Then the van will need to be driven to reset it. Pop Heat Continuously on at level 7 or 8 and wait for a few minutes to fire up. It will blow cold for a small while and then you should be cooking with gas.. (Well diesel actually) ;). Leave the key fob / heat immediately for the quick bursts required when remote activation when walking back to a cold van or starting it from home as a precursor to going out on a winter morning. Will's video above explains it really well. As well as telling you what temps the numbers equate to, which I found really useful.
 
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How are you turning the heater on?
Which ever way I can get it to work! See my reply to Stuart..
The key fob uses Heat Continuously and you will be limited to the time specified in Max Runtime. Then the van will need to be driven to reset it. Pop Heat Continuously on at level 7 or 8 and wait for a few minutes to fire up. It will blow cold for a small while and then you should be cooking with gas.. (Well diesel actually) ;). Leave the key fob / heat immediately for the quick bursts required when remote activation when walking back to a cold van or starting it from home as a precursor to going out on a winter morning. Will's video above explains it really well. As well as telling you what temps the numbers equate to, which I found really useful.
Thank you so much! The California Time video is really helpful, I can't believe I can have the heater on all night! I've been wrapped up in duvets and blankets... and then condensation in the morning.. What you say about only getting 180 mins of heat then needing to go for a drive makes sense too. I'm very grateful, can't wait to try it out..
 
Which ever way I can get it to work! See my reply to Stuart..

Thank you so much! The California Time video is really helpful, I can't believe I can have the heater on all night! I've been wrapped up in duvets and blankets... and then condensation in the morning.. What you say about only getting 180 mins of heat then needing to go for a drive makes sense too. I'm very grateful, can't wait to try it out..
You’ll still get the condensation!
 
The key fob uses Heat Continuously
It controls ‘heat immediately’ (so either the heater or the cab ventilation for a limited time).
 
It controls ‘heat immediately’ (so either the heater or the cab ventilation for a limited time).
Correct. Sorry my bad. Typed in haste! Thanks for correcting. I have edited the post. What am I like? Try to help and only add to the confusion :headbang
 
@Holly hope you've got it all figured out now :)

To stop the windscreen condensation, take a look at an external thermal windscreen cover, like they sell in the club shop / campervanbits website. We use one and don't have any condensation after a nights sleep in the van with dog also.
 
@Holly hope you've got it all figured out now :)

To stop the windscreen condensation, take a look at an external thermal windscreen cover, like they sell in the club shop / campervanbits website. We use one and don't have any condensation after a nights sleep in the van with dog also.
Unless you have adequate ventilation in the vehicle then the moisture you breathe out will condense on the coldest surface. If you insulate the windscreen then the moisture will condense elsewhere, body panels at the rear of the wardrobe and kitchen cupboards and behind the plastic trim panels. This is a guarantee based on simple science. Get the ventilation correct use the heater to keep warm . Then use an insulated windscreen cover to lessen heat loss and allow a lower heater setting, but not as something to decrease condensation.
 
Unless you have adequate ventilation in the vehicle then the moisture you breathe out will condense on the coldest surface. If you insulate the windscreen then the moisture will condense elsewhere, body panels at the rear of the wardrobe and kitchen cupboards and behind the plastic trim panels. This is a guarantee based on simple science. Get the ventilation correct use the heater to keep warm . Then use an insulated windscreen cover to lessen heat loss and allow a lower heater setting, but not as something to decrease condensation.
Thanks
What is the best way to ventilate the van during cold weather? Crack the cab windows?
Shame the ‘ventilate’ function can only run for 2 hours.
 
Thanks
What is the best way to ventilate the van during cold weather? Crack the cab windows?
Shame the ‘ventilate’ function can only run for 2 hours.
Yes, either using a louvered window insert, downwind if possible, or crack a front window or two using some make of window deflector by VW , stick on, or Climair/Dubreflecta that fit in the window grooves. These allow you to open the windows without letting rain in.
 
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Thanks
What is the best way to ventilate the van during cold weather? Crack the cab windows?
Shame the ‘ventilate’ function can only run for 2 hours.
In cold weather I sleep downstairs with the roof raised, upper bed lowered, access hatch to upper bed 3-4cm open and heat on low. This allows ventilation through the upper roof vents, and allows me to easily raise the upper bed in the morning to have space to cook breakfast and change clothes for hiking or skiing. No condensation.

Would cracking a front window provide ventilation with window curtains or exterior cover in place?
 
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In cold weather I sleep downstairs with the roof raised, upper bed lowered, access hatch to upper bed 3-4cm open and heat on low. This allows ventilation through the upper roof vents, and allows me to easily raise the upper bed in the morning to have space to cook breakfast and change clothes for hiking or skiing. No condensation.

Would cracking a front window provide ventilation with window curtains or exterior cover in place?
It does with the magnetic side curtains, sufficient for 2 people.
 
Wonder what happened here? “Please Wait” and no heater. Skip to 13m00

Could it be that they ran it on 'heat immediately', which requires a drive to reset? Still not convinced heat immediately has much use...
I know it can run on a timer, daily if you want, but once your 120 mins is up (in total, so say, 30 mins at 7am for 4 days) do you need to drive it to allow it to work again? Any thoughts @itguy ?
 
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Could it be that they ran it on 'heat immediately', which requires a drive to reset? Still not convinced heat immediately has much use...
I know it can run on a timer, daily if you want, but once your 120 mins is up (in total, so say, 30 mins at 7am for 4 days) do you need to drive it to allow it to work again?
that makes sense. I’m in the dark as no van=no manual.
didn’t ITGuy say in the video that unlike the T6, the 6.1 resets on driving? The T6 would just keep heating once a day until the diesel or battery ran out, whereas the 6.1 would only do that if you didn’t drive it?


Edit - searching back on this forum, you could be right, maximum running time reached (they don’t mention that in the video).
Could it be, that they used Heat Immediately during the night, maxed out the time, hence being unable to heat in the morning until the van was driven?

Post in thread '6.1 Heater Not Working'
https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/6-1-heater-not-working.34357/post-439002
 
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Still not convinced heat immediately has much use...

Heat immediatelys main benefit is being able to turn it on via the remote, although it would be far simpler to just have the remote operate the heat continuously function.
 
Thanks
What is the best way to ventilate the van during cold weather? Crack the cab windows?
Shame the ‘ventilate’ function can only run for 2 hours.
myself the wife and our dog have had no issues with condensation, all we do is put the roof up keep all windows shut set the heating to continuous level 4 or 5 thermal windscreen cover external type from campervan bits and all is good .I do have the wind deflectors but never needed to lower the windows if the external screen cover is on.
 
@Holly hope you've got it all figured out now :)

To stop the windscreen condensation, take a look at an external thermal windscreen cover, like they sell in the club shop / campervanbits website. We use one and don't have any condensation after a nights sleep in the van with dog also.
Good idea, I wonder how much space it would take up though..?
 
@Holly hope you've got it all figured out now :)

To stop the windscreen condensation, take a look at an external thermal windscreen cover, like they sell in the club shop / campervanbits website. We use one and don't have any condensation after a nights sleep in the van with dog also.
I prefer not to use an external windscreen cover, and instead use the internal curtain. My reasoning is that if there is condensation, I want to be able to see it and take remedial action by adequate ventilation. Exterior covers send the condensation, if any, to remote cold spots, like the uninsulated body panels behind the interior trim, which can eventually cause problems with mold and corrosion. My current setup using the upper vents in the pop top, including when I sleep downstairs with the access hatch to the upstairs open 3-4cm, produces no condensation in freezing weather.
 
I prefer not to use an external windscreen cover, and instead use the internal curtain. My reasoning is that if there is condensation, I want to be able to see it and take remedial action by adequate ventilation. Exterior covers send the condensation, if any, to remote cold spots, like the uninsulated body panels behind the interior trim, which can eventually cause problems with mold and corrosion. My current setup using the upper vents in the pop top, including when I sleep downstairs with the access hatch to the upstairs open 3-4cm, produces no condensation in freezing weather.
not sure the external cover would send any condensation to remote cold spots that will happen which ever cover is used, Also if any condensation does appear it will be on the single glazed sliding windows which you can easy wipe dry. If we use the vw front screen blinds the glass is soaked nearly every time during cold damp conditions the key is to have the roof up also.
 
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