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Battery and hook up question

R

Rooney1000

Messages
20
Location
Essex
Vehicle
T6 Ocean 204
Hi all

Done some searching but cant find exact answer - I know that this will get a quick answer so going to ask !

Have a T6 Ocean and have following questions

- When connected to mains hook up on a site does this charge the leisure battery ? Question linked to fact that i run a USB speaker off the 12V connection and want to know that if when camping i should be moving this to a 3 pin plug or fine to leave on 12v as charging via mains hookup

- The 3 pin plug, when connected to mains hook up, do people buy a 2 or 4 way extension lead for this or is it now designed for that from a load point of view !!

Thanks all !
 
yes your van will charge the leisure batteries while on hookup you will be fine using the 12v plugs while on hookup as the charger will put more in than you will take out i havr run my fridge all night on 12v in my beach and not drained the battery while hooked up
 
Hi all

Done some searching but cant find exact answer - I know that this will get a quick answer so going to ask !

Have a T6 Ocean and have following questions

- When connected to mains hook up on a site does this charge the leisure battery ? Question linked to fact that i run a USB speaker off the 12V connection and want to know that if when camping i should be moving this to a 3 pin plug or fine to leave on 12v as charging via mains hookup

- The 3 pin plug, when connected to mains hook up, do people buy a 2 or 4 way extension lead for this or is it now designed for that from a load point of view !!

Thanks all !
@calikev has already answered regarding the Leisure Batteries .

The Mains socket will only provide the amps the Campsite Circuit is wired for. Normally 16 amps in the UK, but on the Continent anything from 6 to 16 amps with 10 amps probably common on bigger sites.
So yes, you can plug in an extension lead but be careful what you run, especially simultaneously.

Eg: 16 amp supply. Charger will be taking some of that, say 2 amps, so you only have 14 amps to play with. A 3 Kw Domestic Electric Kettle will take 12 amps, hence lower wattage camping kettles.
 
Great thanks all.

Another random one. Drove to a country park today and when popping the roof for some space noticed the control panel saying that my battery was only 50%. Also the amps used is random, one second it is 0.4 but then it can go up to 7 or 8. Nothing is plugged into anything on the lesiure battery but the fridge is running.

Would the fridge pull different power at different times ?

Why would my battery be 50% when it has been fine and drive for an hour to get to the park so was charging ?

Thanks all.
 
Great thanks all.

Another random one. Drove to a country park today and when popping the roof for some space noticed the control panel saying that my battery was only 50%. Also the amps used is random, one second it is 0.4 but then it can go up to 7 or 8. Nothing is plugged into anything on the lesiure battery but the fridge is running.

Would the fridge pull different power at different times ?

Why would my battery be 50% when it has been fine and drive for an hour to get to the park so was charging ?

Thanks all.
Fridge cooling will switch Off once required temperature is reached and restart as it rises.
Try resetting the Control Panel.
Switch Off Control Panel using L lower button.
Wait 30 secs and the switch On using same button.
 
It is recommended to put the van on hookup for 24 hours every month to keep your batteries topped up to full. Via driving they will only ever charge to around 80% max.
 
It is recommended to put the van on hookup for 24 hours every month to keep your batteries topped up to full. Via driving they will only ever charge to around 80% max.
My batteries are at 100% - only charged by the engine. They charge quickly from driving.
 
I wonder how accurate the control panels are.
 
My batteries are at 100% - only charged by the engine. They charge quickly from driving.
You don't have to follow the advice of Forum members but it might pay you to read your California Handbook as that is what VW advise.
Unless , of course you are camping, monthly, on Hookup for at least 24 hrs. Your choice.

See Post 10 Below for VW's reasoning.
 
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I wonder how accurate the control panels are.
The Control Panels measure the current draw and voltage and compute the % capacity. Iy is not highly accurate.
Periodic Mains Charging is required to Prolong the life of the Leisure Batteries by reducing and treating the Sulphation that can occur in Lead Acid type batteries that don't get charged to their fullest capacity. That happens on the California if you only use engine charging.
A little reading.

Sulfation and How to Prevent it
Applying ways to minimize sulfation.

Sulfation occurs when a lead acid battery is deprived of a full charge. This is common with starter batteries in cars driven in the city with load-hungry accessories. A motor in idle or at low speed cannot charge the battery sufficiently.

Electric wheelchairs have a similar problem in that the users might not charge the battery long enough. An 8-hour charge during the night when the chair is not being used is not enough. Lead acid must periodically be charged 14–16 hours to attain full saturation. This may be the reason why wheelchair batteries last only 2 years, whereas golf cars with the identical battery deliver twice the service life. Long leisure time allows golf car batteries to get a full charge overnight.

Solar cells and wind turbines do not always provide sufficient charge for lead acid banks, which can lead to sulfation. This happens in remote parts of the world where villagers draw generous amounts of electricity with insufficient renewable resources to charge the batteries. The result is a short battery life. Only a periodic fully saturated charge can solve the problem. But without an electrical grid at their disposal, this is almost impossible.

An alternative solution is using lithium-ion, a battery that prefers a partial charge to a full charge. However, Li-ion is more than double the cost of lead acid. Although more expensive, the cycle count is said to be cheaper than that of lead acid because of the extended service life.

What is sulfation? During use, small sulfate crystals form, but these are normal and are not harmful. During prolonged charge deprivation, however, the amorphous lead sulfate converts to a stable crystalline and deposits on the negative plates. This leads to the development of large crystals that reduce the battery’s active material, which is responsible for the performance.

There are two types of sulfation: reversible (or soft sulfation), and permanent (or hard sulfation). If a battery is serviced early, reversible sulfation can often be corrected by applying an overcharge to an already fully charged battery in the form of a regulated current of about 200mA. The battery terminal voltage is allowed to rise to between 2.50 and 2.66V/cell (15 and 16V on a 12V mono block) for about 24 hours. Increasing the battery temperature to 50–60°C (122–140°F) during the corrective service further helps in dissolving the crystals.

Permanent sulfation sets in when the battery has been in a low state-of-charge for weeks or months. At this stage, no form of restoration seems possible; however, the recovery yield is not fully understood. To everyone’s amazement, new lead acid batteries can often be fully restored after dwelling in a low-voltage condition for many weeks. Other factors may play a role.

A subtle indication whether lead acid can be recovered or not is visible on the voltage discharge curve. If a fully charged battery retains a stable voltage profile on discharge, chances of reactivation are better than if the voltage drops rapidly with load.

Several companies offer anti-sulfation devices that apply pulses to the battery terminals to prevent and reverse sulfation. Such technologies will lower the sulfation on a healthy battery, but they cannot effectively reverse the condition once present. It’s a “one size fits all” approach and the method is unscientific.

Applying random pulses or blindly inducing an overcharge can harm the battery by promoting grid corrosion. There are no simple methods to measure sulfation, nor are commercial chargers available that apply a calculated overcharge to dissolve the crystals. As with medicine, the most effective remedy is to apply a corrective service for the time needed and not longer.

While anti-sulfation devices can reverse the condition, some battery manufacturers do not recommend the treatment as it tends to create soft shorts that may increase self-discharge. Furthermore, the pulses contain ripple voltage that causes some heating of the battery. Battery manufacturers specify the allowable ripple when charging lead acid batteries.
 
Thanks for this info.

Now I have a solar panel (240W) on the van do you think I still need the monthly electric 24hr charges?

thanks
 
Thanks for this info.

Now I have a solar panel (240W) on the van do you think I still need the monthly electric 24hr charges?

thanks
not unless you live above the arctic circle and your panels don't see enough sun to keep them charging :)
Seriously though, your setup will quite happily keep the batteries fully charged with nothing substantial switched on. So, I wouldn't worry about the charger.
 
Thanks for this info.

Now I have a solar panel (240W) on the van do you think I still need the monthly electric 24hr charges?

thanks
I don't know. I have a Solar Panel and if I'm not camping on Mains Hookup that month then I plug in for 24 hrs. Doesn't happen that often but I still plug in anyway, and run the Parking Heater for an hour if it hasn't been used that month.
 
You don't have to follow the advice of Forum members but it might pay you to read your California Handbook as that is what VW advise.
Unless , of course you are camping, monthly, on Hookup for at least 24 hrs. Your choice.
My 2012 handbook doesn’t contain this advice. It does contain a vague statement about plugging in if you don’t drive much, but nowhere does it mention the 24 hours once a month thing.
Did the wording get changed at some point?
For what it’s worth I never plug in and my batteries are still fine after seven years.
 
My 2012 handbook doesn’t contain this advice. It does contain a vague statement about plugging in if you don’t drive much, but nowhere does it mention the 24 hours once a month thing.
Did the wording get changed at some point?
For what it’s worth I never plug in and my batteries are still fine after seven years.

I'm sure they work, but they may not work as well or for as long when off grid. Your choice.

Screenshot 2019-04-12 at 08.17.37.jpg

And in the California Supplement

Screenshot 2019-04-12 at 08.23.41.jpg
 
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I think the wording (or philosophy) has changed as we moved on to so-called Smart Alternators as the leisure batteries no-longer get a 100% charge without modification to the circuit, so the leisure batteries might discharge quicker when not used. All of this depends on how often you drive it and when is left drawing power when you park it up etc.
 
That may depend on your solar charger.

Solar charger is a 100/20 Viktron MPPT connected to 2x120 Watt panels
The bluetooth app shows battery gets to maximum above 14 volts each day
So @Loz -- that suggests to me that no additional benefit from plugging in to electric? is that correct??

Below is 3 days readings with no driving (last weekend, 5th April) and no electric hook up.....(may be different in winter with shorter days....will test next winter!)

Screen Shot 2019-04-12 at 09.32.38.png
 
Solar charger is a 100/20 Viktron MPPT connected to 2x120 Watt panels
The bluetooth app shows battery gets to maximum above 14 volts each day
So @Loz -- that suggests to me that no additional benefit from plugging in to electric? is that correct??
That looks fine to me, on that use profile the charger would not be adding anything.
 

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