Does using Coasting Function clog the EGR?

The New type and old Type EGR pipes are shown in this thread (photos compared side by side) , also pictures showing the method of EGR flush , chemical used and equipment that a dealer would use to flush an EGR valve, since having this work done I have had no further issues.
I did turn off coasting immediately after having this work done , I'm now on 50+k miles no further issues.

Hi Perfectos,
I'll caveat the following with, this is what I've understood (but may well be wrong!):

I think the newer pipes you refer to were slightly revised versions that helped prevent the pipes failing at their weaker point in their bend. Let's called this a "type1 failure - of the plumbing to/from the EGR"
But these revised pipes still connected the same elements together. My van was one of the last T6.0 and I "think" should have already been built with these better connecting pipes

Triplebee's interesting insight is that from 2020/ T6.1 the pipes connect at a different point , which is AFTER the DFP now. Which reduces the amount of "soot/crud" going into through the EGR heat exchanger, reducing the chances of the internal honeycomb structure becoming blocked and so becomes unable to produce enough flow to do it's job (let's call that type 2 failure!)

As it happens my EGR wasn't blocked up, rather the internal barrier between hot exhaust gas and circulating coolant failed, so it was losing coolant into the cylinders. So a different problem. Type 3 - internal barrier breakdown. I'm wondering if the new plumbing layout would help with this type of fail also
 
2014 CFCA 180 Biturbo. EGR replaced at 900 miles due to electrical fault subsequently 134,000 miles fully utilising the Coast Function and Stop/Start.
Fuel used, whatever diesel available when refuelling required.
Is the CFCA EGR valve different, functions differently on later engines, or driving style to be implicated on early failure?
Mine was used almost daily, all year round and rarely on trips less than 15 miles.
 
Driving causes clogs in the EGR system. Oil vapour and soot isn't a great combination.

A catch can is a big benefit
 
2014 CFCA 180 Biturbo. EGR replaced at 900 miles due to electrical fault subsequently 134,000 miles fully utilising the Coast Function and Stop/Start.
Fuel used, whatever diesel available when refuelling required.
Is the CFCA EGR valve different, functions differently on later engines, or driving style to be implicated on early failure?
Mine was used almost daily, all year round and rarely on trips less than 15 miles.

As you have often said, rightly, it is better to use the van regularly than leave it on the drive for long periods. TripleBee’s experience supports you on this.
My problem is I don’t have a regular use for the van when we’re not away in it, no commute, got a little Suzuki Ignis automatic for running round town, bus pass gets you to Nottingham for nowt.
I have a solution.
Once a week, hail rain or shine, I will take myself across to the Peak District and go for a good long walk.
Mansfield to Junction 28 or 29 on M1 will get the van up to temp. Then you are on fast dual carriageway, opportunity to drive er spiritedly, andyinluton style.
Do the walk and give the van another spanking on the way back.
Health van, healthy man. Way to go. Me and that van will grow old together.
 
The New type and old Type EGR pipes are shown in this thread (photos compared side by side) , also pictures showing the method of EGR flush , chemical used and equipment that a dealer would use to flush an EGR valve, since having this work done I have had no further issues.
I did turn off coasting immediately after having this work done , I'm now on 50+k miles no further issues.


I had a look at the pictures of the EGR pipe you took off and it brought back memories.
I bought a BSA Bantam in 1969, badly in need of a decoke. The cylinder head had that same gunge !
 

Similar threads

Back
Top