Paintwork TLC.

[a892374923874]

Done a wash with the snowfoam, 2 bucket shampoo, and the Polarseal. then dry with a drying towel. Results are good enough for me. Thanks for the pointers!

What's good to clean the wheels? Ideally a spray on, wash off with minimum faff!
Cheers

 

[Grumposaur68]

Done a wash with the snowfoam, 2 bucket shampoo, and the Polarseal. then dry with a drying towel. Results are good enough for me. Thanks for the pointers!

What's good to clean the wheels? Ideally a spray on, wash off with minimum faff!
Cheers

View attachment 66021

Try this..........

 

[Big Ted]

What's good to clean the wheels? Ideally a spray on, wash off with minimum faff!

I know it’s not min faff, but I can recommend cleaning them all up and the coating inside and out with Gtechniq C5 coating.
They now seem to stay cleaner for longer and a jet wash removes a good proportion of the brake dust. A quick poke around with a wheel brush gets them back to a good finish.

 

[a892374923874]

Try this..........View attachment 66022

Thanks. Is this strong enough for wheels that would only be cleaned twice a year or so?

 

[CaliBear]

Thanks. Is this strong enough for wheels that would only be cleaned twice a year or so?

You'd probably be better off with a dedicated alloy wheel cleaner (not the horrible acid type) as it will break down the baked on brake dust without dulling the wheels. I use Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel (ph neutral), but Autobrite Direct Purple Rain or Maguiars Ultimate all wheel cleaner are equally as good.

 

[ScotlandtheDave]

You'd probably be better off with a dedicated alloy wheel cleaner (not the horrible acid type) as it will break down the baked on brake dust without dulling the wheels. I useBilt Hamber Auto Wheel (ph neutral), but Autobrite Direct Purple Rain or Maguiars Ultimate all wheel cleaner are equally as good.

I just bought 5l of the bilt hamber auto wheel cleaner and imo it knocks spots off the bilberry it replaced. I’d definitely recommend it

 

[a892374923874]

Next question:- I got a Kent care microfibre drying towel because it was only £5.
I sprayed the Polarseal, then immediately rinsed it all off with the pressure washer, then dried straightaway.

It took a lot of going over and towel wringing to dry it, and I suspect there may be some water marks. Would I have been better to air dry for half an hour then go over with the towel?

 

[CaliBear]

Next question:- I got a Kent care microfibre drying towel because it was only £5.
I sprayed the Polarseal, then immediately rinsed it all off with the pressure washer, then dried straightaway.

It took a lot of going over and towel wringing to dry it, and I suspect there may be some water marks. Would I have been better to air dry for half an hour then go over with the towel?

I've not used Autoglym Polar seal so can't really comment. Not sure if it's like the Bobby Dazler stuff people use on great whites and caravans?
It looks in the instructions for use that you have to towel dry and should not let it air dry as it will leave spots.
Did you use a wash product with a wax in it as these can sometimes leave white spots/streaks when drying.
You could also try a different drying towel like the ones from Klin or Autobrite. A large drying towel will just about do a Cali without having to ring out.

 

[CaliBear]

https://www.exceldetailingsupplies.co.uk/products/klin-korea-large-duo-drying-towel
Worth the price.

https://www.autobritedirect.co.uk/product/hellshine-the-reaper-super-plush-drying-towel/
A bit cheaper but not quite as good as the Klin ones.

 

[a892374923874]

Did you use a wash product with a wax

I used some triplewax shampoo that's been languishing forlornly in the garage for probably 20 years.

 

[a892374923874]

hamber auto wheel cleaner

Thanks, I've just ordered a litre of this to try.

 

[CaliBear]

I used some triplewax shampoo that's been languishing forlornly in the garage for probably 20 years.

Ha, ha! I too have a concoction of different washes, waxes and oils from various stages of vehicle ownership.
It could be why you are getting the marks left over.
You could try washing with a car wash that doesn't contain wax. Maguiars Gold class or Bilt hamber auto wash (super concentrated and only need 5ml per wash/bucket).

 

[Taff Tenor]

Hi all

I’m about to give Herman the Big Ted treatment as ‘winter is coming’ . Can anyone tell me though whether I can use Purple Rain on the body work as having used it once in the alloys it seems like pretty nasty stuff? Also asI don’t have a machine polisher it’s going to mean lots of elbow grease and is it waxing before a sealant or vice versa?

cheers

Taff T

 

[a892374923874]

Just given the van a snowfoam, 2 bucket wash, Polarseal, and towel dry. Last time was last August. Some questions arise!

1. Is there any downside to using an electric leaf blower instead of a towel to dry after applying Polarseal? Something has eaten my drying towel over the winter so I would need to get a new one.
2. The paintwork feels a bit bumpy/rough with tiny spots below door handle level all around. Is this where clay comes in? Clay bar, Mitt, Spray solution? Would I just apply this where it feels bumpy? Which one is quickest?
3. Do I need fallout remover?

Cheers

 

[gt_63]

Good morning A
Can’t offer any feedback for you on your first query but I’d say your spot on as regards your second point. Clay bar a panel at a time and do the whole vehicle. However some of the lower level bumps may be tar or other road chemicals
Whichever preference for product manufacturers you have they’ll bound to do a solution for tar or traffic film remover. Best stick with the same manufacturer though as some chemicals compliment each other rather than react against each other
Personally I’m a Meguiars fan
Have fun and I’m sure you’ll be proud of your new shine

 

[Borris]

Just given the van a snowfoam, 2 bucket wash, Polarseal, and towel dry. Last time was last August. Some questions arise!

1. Is there any downside to using an electric leaf blower instead of a towel to dry after applying Polarseal? Something has eaten my drying towel over the winter so I would need to get a new one.
2. The paintwork feels a bit bumpy/rough with tiny spots below door handle level all around. Is this where clay comes in? Clay bar, Mitt, Spray solution? Would I just apply this where it feels bumpy? Which one is quickest?
3. Do I need fallout remover?

Cheers

1. I wouldn't recommend it, even if it were a brand new uncontaminated leaf blower that was dedicated to car use only and kept in a plastic bag when not in use, you could risk blowing dust etc from around the vehicle up onto the paintwork. Then when you towel it and polish it you'd be grinding said dust and grit etc into the paintwork. A used one would be full of garden crud sucked in whilst being operated in the garden.

2. Yes, a clay bar will remove those little bits and bumps. As you clay a section you will at first feel resistance from the surface contaminants but as you work the clay you will feel the paint quickly become silky smooth. Keep checking the clay polishing surface for contaminants and when it looks dirty, fold it in on itself to expose a clean claying surface. Only use a small piece slightly bigger than a 50p piece. If the clay bar is hard chuck it into some hot water for a short while before tearing some off. If in doubt try Youtube for a full explanation. I use Bilt Hamber clay bars because you can use plain tap water instead of some special fancy lubricant. There are several grades available. Other makes are available. Just thoroughly wash the vehicle first then clay it panel by panel. I use an empty clean pump spray from the kitchen cupboard to keep the panel really wet as you clay it. Do the whole vehicle and apply a coat of good polish straight afterwards. Tip: It's easy to drop the small piece of clay whilst working the panel. Spread out a clean plastic sheet beneath where you are working. If you don't do this you must throw that piece of clay away as it will almost certainly have picked up grit. The whole process is surprisingly satisfying.

3. What's "fall out remover"?

 

[a892374923874]

Thanks. I haven't got any polish, so I'll need to get some of that - Autoglym SRP was mentioned in a previous post, along with the clay bar, and presumably something to apply it with, and buff it afterwards. Then I think I apply the Polarseal on top of all that.

I can see this kit which seems to have everything. The other products I have are Autoglym, so I guess I should stick with that.

Clay Detailing Complete Kit

Everything you need to remove surface contaminants from paintwork

www.autoglym.com

Cheers,
A