- North Wales
- T6 Ocean 199
Remove your wheels once or twice a year they won’t be corroded on in that time and you get a bit of practice should you get a puncture. No grease required.
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copaslip is designed for high tempsUse of Copper based grease argument is slightly missing the point in that using it on the brake parts can be potentially lethal due to the grease melting and running onto the brake surface, especially if excess grease is applied.
What both myself and others are saying is that using it on the wheel to hub contact points is a way to preventing corrosion bonding the wheel to the hub. Used with moderation of course.
A good layer of wax polish to both the hub and wheel centre would be much better than nothing.
I always changed my wheels 2 times a year, and nevertheless I had corrosion problems on my previous cars. Since I use copper based grease I did not have any problems anymoreRemove your wheels once or twice a year they won’t be corroded on in that time and you get a bit of practice should you get a puncture. No grease required.
My experience was exactly the same as yours. It doesn't take much and the wheels don't seize.I always changed my wheels 2 times a year, and nevertheless I had corrosion problems on my previous cars. Since I use copper based grease I did not have any problems anymore
Call the AA.
Meanwhile, until they arrive, use the Cali as it's designed to be used .... make a nice cup of tea
In my opinion its not corrosion causing the problem, its some designs are a tighter fit over the hubs than others. from the posts above Davenports appear to have problems along with Dakars, whereas cascavels don't.
When I put the Dakars on the rear of my van, I can tell its a tight fit. If I push the wheel onto the hub it will sit there without falling off without the wheel bolts being in place. The original 16" myatö design need a bolt in to keep the wheel in place.
I also find that the rears are always hard to get off whereas the fronts are easy.
It also doesn't seem to matter whether I had the wheel off last week or last year they are always difficult.
You need a longer lever and maybe some penetrating solution.I spent a while yesterday trying to remove the rear right wheel ……. I gave up on the end! (my plan was to change wheels front to back to even out tyre wear……. I had all the problems previously stated on this and other threads.
So I think I will take the van to a tyre centre and ‘pay the man’ ……. hopefully the price I have to pay will be worth saving my knuckles and not having to suffer even more stress and anguish.
Just wondering what the latest thinking/opinion is regarding the use of grease/lubricant etc?
Ah, the point I didn’t make very well is that tyre fitters (apparently) charge more if just wheel change…… but for balancing the computer say yes! All I want is wheels changed as cheap as possible so if that is the way they can ‘allow it’ then it seems better value? The wheel is balanced off the vehicle and is specifically weighted accordingly to the run out on the rim,
it make little difference when switching axle positions, the wheel remains balanced regardless of its axle position
At the first chance I use Copperslip on the wheel hubs to stop corrosion and aid removal. Just need a thin coating. Experience from maintaining ships deck machinery.
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