Roof code 1000

[steve_b]

Thanks, a picture would be interesting. My suspicion is that there are many possible failure modes - the devices seem to have 2 active states which could be detected by the control unit.

I am assuming that there is a resistor in the control unit and it measures the voltage across the hall sensor, which means that each sensor has 4 possible states - two good and 2 bad. Note that I am guessing at the voltage numbers below, they will not be correct - they are for example only.

0-1V (broken wire, entirely duff unit, shorted to ground) - it knows the sensor is faulty
between 1 and 2.5V - a normal reading for a sensor without any large metal objects (the piston end) nearby
between 2.5 and 5V - a normal reading for a sensor with a large object nearby (piston end nearby)
Over 5V - we know this is fault, maybe shorted to +12v or whatever

So from 1 sensor / 1 pair of wires we can get 4 states - two of which are definitive errors. (voltage too high or voltage too low)

Then combining the sensors there are other possible error combinations, for example

Left side rear sensor open, right side closed . This maybe is allowed to persist for a few seconds if the roof is not opening absolutely straight but a long term mismatch is obviously wrong. Same for the front sensors - in a perfect world both would change state at the same time.

Front sensor showing roof open and back sensor showing roof closed. Again a logical impossibility , this should thrown an error.

Shame we can't dig deeper into the control unit t ask it exactly WHY it thinks there is a problem.

 

[soppelsa]

2 of the legs on the transistor type component have a soldered short and a resistor I think across the input.

 

[steve_b]

interesting - don't suppose their is a legible part number on that sensor - the transistor looking part is almost certain the hall sensor itself

 

[soppelsa]

We think its top line 566k bottom line 1155

 

[steve_b]

looks like something similar to this then - the A1155LUA-T

https://www.allegromicro.com/~/Media/Files/Datasheets/A115x-Datasheet.ashx

>The A115x family has a number of automotive applications. These include sensing seat track position, seat belt buckle presence, hood/trunk latching, and shift selector position.Two-wire unipolar switches are particularly advantageous in cost-sensitive applications because they require one less wire for operation versus the more traditional open-collector output switches. Additionally, the system designer inherently gains diagnostics because there is always output current flowing, which should be in either of two narrow ranges. Any current level not within these ranges indicates a fault condition.

The 3 pin device looks like you wire it with pins 1 to a positive voltage and 2 and 3 shorted (ground) - which seems to match what you have. If my reading of that sheet is correct (it may not be, this is well outside of my area of expertise) then it seems that the sensor should allow between 5 and 6.9 ma of current to flow when it is "low" and between 12 and 17ma to flow when "high" - so any current flow outside of those thresholds is an error state.

I wonder if I can stick a power supply on and just measure current inline with it, see if I can make it change without messing with resistors, although it may be easier to add a resistor and measure voltage drop.

 

[soppelsa]

so if you test in situe and put my meter in series,milli amp range could I expect to see the change in current flow of the region that you have indicated.

 

[steve_b]

looks like it.current varies between 14ma (no metal nearby) and 3ma (metal nearby) - so slightly different to that spec sheet so it may not be exactly the same device. meets the specs for 1150, 1157 or 1158 though at 3ma / 14ma





Actually, looks like a HAL 566K meets the spec - 3.3ma / 14.3ma typical

https://kz.micro-semiconductor.hk/datasheet/c7-HAL566UA-K.pdf

 

[soppelsa]

Fantastic!
Hope this thread offers some valuable guidance to fellow faulty hydraulic roofers.

 

[Grumpy Mike]

How do we feel about just accepting the error code and using the roof as normal?

 

[steve_b]

I have not had it myself but my understanding is that the roof refuses to operate. And that the problem often starts as intermittent, which is your opportunity to fix it whilst you can still get the roof open , otherwise it is a much bigger job to fix.

 

[Lambeth Cali]

How do we feel about just accepting the error code and using the roof as normal?

I used the roof with the "roof up" flashing for about a year. I never checked for error codes. Is that what you mean?

Two things stopped me doing this. Firstly, I replaced my control computer as the screen was shot. This was a newer computer and it had a warning chime when I drove with the roof up flashing. This was unbearable! Secondly, the roof started to carry on making the loud noise when it came down. This didn't stop as the sensors were no longer telling the pump the roof was down. I am not sure why this took more than a year to go wrong. Perhaps another sensor broke?

For some when the sensors break, the roof won't go up or down. I'm not sure why it still worked for me.

I swapped the sensors for £50 ish, and wrote a post about it.

 

[Grumpy Mike]

OK so changed the knob and at the same time the error code 1000 and roof issue happened. Bought the new sensors and had a really good garage fit them. Picked her up all ok no warning. Then within an hour warning roof fault and roof up... Any ideas? I got back into the menu and tried to reset the fault. It wouldn't. I simply pushed in the centre of the knob in for 5 seconds???

Any help appreciated.

TIA.

 

[steve_b]

did you have any issues before you took the panel out to change the knob? If the 1000 error is new, my guess would be that the wiring or connectors have been disturbed at the back of the control panel which is causing the problem - not the sensors on the roof itself.

 

[Grumpy Mike]

did you have any issues before you took the panel out to change the knob? If the 1000 error is new, my guess would be that the wiring or connectors have been disturbed at the back of the control panel which is causing the problem - not the sensors on the roof itself.

Steve I am guessing. But think it may be after I took the panel out. Thoughts? Everything else seems to work from the panel?????

 

[Lambeth Cali]

OK so changed the knob and at the same time the error code 1000 and roof issue happened. Bought the new sensors and had a really good garage fit them. Picked her up all ok no warning. Then within an hour warning roof fault and roof up... Any ideas? I got back into the menu and tried to reset the fault. It wouldn't. I simply pushed in the centre of the knob in for 5 seconds???

Any help appreciated.

TIA.

I’m a little confused by some of you’re post. The roof issue started exactly when you changed the control knob?
“Then within an hour warning roof fault and roof up...” You mean the roof is down but saying it’s up? Is that the current problem?

I’m not sure I quite get the sequence of events. But it does sound possibly you need a new control unit? An expensive part but perhaps you could try swap one somehow to test?
You seem confident the garage did the sensor swap correctly. What do they think problem might be?

 

[vbk1975]

Steve I am guessing. But think it may be after I took the panel out. Thoughts? Everything else seems to work from the panel?????

The Control Panel is the Customer Interface for the roof and doesn't directly manage the roof.

The controller for the roof is a separate ECU, that reads the ram sensors (x4) and controls the roof pump.



The Control panel is connected to the Roof ECU with 4 wires, so best guess is the open/close signals go from the Control Panel and then the diagnostics on the others back to the panel.

Worth checking the big plug on the back of the control panel is pushed home fully and then maybe a Control Panel reset. Failing that maybe check the Roof Control Unit fuses.

 

[Grumpy Mike]

I’m a little confused by some of you’re post. The roof issue started exactly when you changed the control knob?
“Then within an hour warning roof fault and roof up...” You mean the roof is down but saying it’s up? Is that the current problem?

I’m not sure I quite get the sequence of events. But it does sound possibly you need a new control unit? An expensive part but perhaps you could try swap one somehow to test?
You seem confident the garage did the sensor swap correctly. What do they think problem might be?

Sorry. Yes the knob and roof issue happened around the same time.

I changed the knob.

A local garage changed the sensors today. Collected her and roof warning gone. Within an hour warning back. The garage are a local small independent they wouldn't necessarily know what to do next hence me asking here.

So yes I am very confident of the garage. Im thinking is it possible the wiring in the panel? Could it be that either the ribbon is slightly wrong or the connectors in back slightly wrong? Despite everything else working fine on the panel? Or am I doing the reset wrong after the sensors are replaced?

TIA

 

[Lambeth Cali]

When you picked it up, did you put the roof up and down? Just trying to establish if it was all definitely working.

 

[Grumpy Mike]

No .

When you picked it up, did you put the roof up and down? Just trying to establish if it was all definitely working.

…..

 

[Grumpy Mike]

No .

…..

Sort mate was just starting a night shift and wanted to reply. That sounded snappy and rude.

 

[Grumpy Mike]

It’s that time of year so might leave her till warmer or may go to Spain to do it. Sounds like there is so possibility that the ribbon cables are not in correct. But why would everything else work? But will try again at taking out panel and putting back in. Is there a source of panel refurbs somewhere? Cost????

 

[Grumpy Mike]

Or is it just the reset???? What buttons do we press????? TIA

 

[WelshGas]

Or is it just the reset???? What buttons do we press????? TIA

Check Control Panel Diagnostics.

Control Panel Off and wait 30 secs

Control Panel On

Press and Hold R lower button and then press Control Knob for 5 secs.

New Hidden Menu . Scroll to VW Diagnostics.

If there are any codes shown, take note and then Reset/Clear.

Return to Main Menu.

Switch Off Control Panel using L lower button. Wait 30 secs and Switch On.

Try Roof/Heater or Fridge

 

[Lambeth Cali]

Sort mate was just starting a night shift and wanted to reply. That sounded snappy and rude.

No problem at all. I’m not sure what it can be but there are others here who know about electrics. I swapped my sensors and luckily it all worked. There were various electrical shenanigans when everything was reconnected. I don’t think the van likes having the batteries disconnected. I needed to charge the van for an hour and do a few resets of stuff. Actually setting the clock was bizarrely important. No chimes though.
I would follow Welsh Gas’ diagnostic check.
I am sceptical that it was definitely fixed when you picked it up.
There are threads on panel refurbs. I got a brand new one from Germany. Brexit has made both refurb and replace a hassle.

 

[Lambeth Cali]

Apologies if you have already said this but where did you get the sensors from? I wonder if one has failed?