Roof drains

[AlistairC]

. Has anyone else come across this same issue? If so, what did you do to resolve it? I’m thinking I can sleeve the two ends with a slightly larger diameter pipe as a last resort but just wanted to hear your thoughts based on experience.
TIA Alan.

I’ve just found my passenger mats wet and found this thread.
same issue with the pipe being disconnected & too short to reach the rubber elbow.

turns out that the drain pipe had been clipped up with the electrical wires in the A pillar and so ran a longer route.

unclipped and shifted it to what appear to be the correct metal clips. Freed up the pipe, all connected properly again & fingers crossed problem solved. HTH.

wrong!


right!

 

[chockswahay]

An old thread I know but it’s topical at this time of year. I had a look at mine and both the front drains were blocked. I used my portable garden sprayer and squirted some water into the top drain points……. Worked like a dream There is a strange satisfaction hearing the gurgling sound than others have mentioned elsewhere when testing them

 

[Themeparkdad]

Sometimes the rubber of the valve becomes sticky with time and dirt. I've had success using a silicon spray and Pledge Spray furniture polish on the inside so the valve lips no longer stick together. EITHER WILL DO.

Reviving an old thread…

How much water should be needed in the inlet area to the front roof drains for flow to start?

I found my passenger side front roof drain needed to be filled almost to the level of the base of the canvas before flow would start through it (clearly wrong). When it had enough head of water, flow would start and it would flow really well (you can tip a 2L bottle through fairly quickly), and empty with a gurgle.

But then after a few minutes it would again need a big head of water to get flow started.

Flushing with hot water and washing up liquid didn’t help.

I then syringed in and out through the drain inlet which improved it.

It now starts to drain when the inlet area is just full, both passenger and drivers side (see photos).

My question is: what level of water should be needed in the inlet area to the roof drains for flow to start? Should it start flowing into the drains as soon as it covers the drain entry holes? Or is it normal to have to fill the entry areas full (to get enough head for the outlet valve to open)?

The level I now need for flow to start is just below the level of the black plastic covers over the drains, so you don’t realise the entry area is filling up before flow starts unless you remove the covers.

I’m not sure if I’ve fixed the problem, or if flow should start into the drains with much less water in the entry area.

It’d be good to know what others find as normal before I try removing the scuttle cover to silicone spray the outlet flow valves.

Thanks!

 

[AlistairC]

I too found my valves a bit restrictive.
I used a bronze 5.56mm /0.22” rifle cleaning brush to give the valves a clean from the scuttle area. Worked a treat.

Dribble before. Nice flow after.
Perhaps the bronze bristles ‘scuffed’ up the valve lips a bit.

 

[TripleBee]

I too found my valves a bit restrictive.
I used a bronze 5.56mm /0.22” rifle cleaning brush to give the valves a clean from the scuttle area. Worked a treat.

Dribble below. Nice flow after.
Perhaps the bronze bristles ‘scuffed’ up the valve lips a bit.

View attachment 125419

View attachment 125420

Now you have access to the drain outlets, just cut out the closing flaps.
I did it on mine (both sides) and now no water will ever collect up above.

 

[AlistairC]

It will have cost VW to add those valve outlets.
I’m not saying they always get it right but IMHO if it ain’t broke…..
Just needs a clean out every once in a while!

 

[TripleBee]

It will have cost VW to add those valve outlets.
I’m not saying they always get it right but IMHO if it ain’t broke…..
Just needs a clean out every once in a while!

I had given up trying to drain the drains.
I cut the crap and cut off the closing flaps of the outlets.
Why would you close outlets, giving debris chance to clog up?
Now, all the water just flows straight through. I will never have to look at it anymore.

But just do as you please, I am not forcing you to do it.

 

[Themeparkdad]

I too found my valves a bit restrictive.
I used a bronze 5.56mm /0.22” rifle cleaning brush to give the valves a clean from the scuttle area. Worked a treat.

Dribble before. Nice flow after.
Perhaps the bronze bristles ‘scuffed’ up the valve lips a bit.

View attachment 125419

View attachment 125420

View attachment 125421

View attachment 125422

Thanks!

Please could you let me know: did you remove the panels between the engine bay and scuttle to do this, or the just the plastic scuttle cover (if that is what it is called, the plastic piece with the slots along the front, below the windscreen)?

I also wondered: once you’ve got the outlet valves opening properly, do you still need to build up a bit of water in the drain inlet area for flow to start, or should it flow right in (ie have I still got a problem in my second photo)?

Thanks!

 

[AlistairC]

Thanks!

Please could you let me know: did you remove the panels between the engine bay and scuttle to do this, or the just the plastic scuttle cover (if that is what it is called, the plastic piece with the slots along the front, below the windscreen)?

I also wondered: once you’ve got the outlet valves opening properly, do you still need to build up a bit of water in the drain inlet area for flow to start, or should it flow right in (ie have I still got a problem in my second photo)?

Thanks!

TBH, it was Oct 22 when I did it and can’t really remember! I do remember thinking it needed the windscreen wipers off but I managed instead to leave that plastic trim in situ and lifted the engine side edge instead for access.

Re build up, once clear I think it took very little water up top to get going and then it cleared completely so no big pressure head needed.

 

[TripleBee]

Thanks!

Please could you let me know: did you remove the panels between the engine bay and scuttle to do this, or the just the plastic scuttle cover (if that is what it is called, the plastic piece with the slots along the front, below the windscreen)?

I also wondered: once you’ve got the outlet valves opening properly, do you still need to build up a bit of water in the drain inlet area for flow to start, or should it flow right in (ie have I still got a problem in my second photo)?

Thanks!

Just lift up the plastic, and you can unscrew the T30 torx screws.

Once you get to the rubber outlets, take them out (remove the side dashboard panels and disconnect them from the brown tube), and remove the flaps. Cut them out, leaving the big hole open. No water will ever collect up top.
I did it with mine after a lot of flushing didn't solve my problem anymore.
Now the water runs straight through.

 

[Andrew Dyer]

I’ve just found my passenger mats wet and found this thread.
same issue with the pipe being disconnected & too short to reach the rubber elbow.

turns out that the drain pipe had been clipped up with the electrical wires in the A pillar and so ran a longer route.

unclipped and shifted it to what appear to be the correct metal clips. Freed up the pipe, all connected properly again & fingers crossed problem solved. HTH.

wrong!
View attachment 100117

right!
View attachment 100118

I've just found exactly the same thing after removing the A Pillar trim. So have been able to make the hose longer; however, I cannot get the hose back into the black boot, behind the heater fan one handed. What is the recommended way of getting these two pieces joined up. Should I start taking apart the lower part of the dashboard, and take out the fan? Or is there any easier way?

 

[AlistairC]

I've just found exactly the same thing after removing the A Pillar trim. So have been able to make the hose longer; however, I cannot get the hose back into the black boot, behind the heater fan one handed. What is the recommended way of getting these two pieces joined up. Should I start taking apart the lower part of the dashboard, and take out the fan? Or is there any easier way?

Sorry, no further advice other than patience, dexterity and a few choice expletives.
Recall one hand giving the hose a downward push from the A pillar and other hand from beneath the dash holding the elbow still.

Just be grateful it is the easy side - drivers side is the difficult one!

 

[Andrew Dyer]

Sorry, no further advice other than patience, dexterity and a few choice expletives.
Recall one hand giving the hose a downward push from the A pillar and other hand from beneath the dash holding the elbow still.

Just be grateful it is the easy side - drivers side is the difficult one!

Thanks, with this info I persisted and enlisted the help of one of my kids. Small hands did the trick, and possibly the dexterity I'm lacking. Seems to be working now.

 

[Viktorgeorge]

Has anyone posted an ‘idiots guide” to remove the plastic scuttle cover below the wipers on a T6.1, so that you can check and clean the two front roof drain outlets? It looks as if you need to remove the wiper arms it I don’t see how you go from there (the two plastic push fits in the scuttle are presumably just for the LHD vans).

I have read several roof drain strings where posters have got there but none seem to explain how exactly.

 

[TripleBee]

Has anyone posted an ‘idiots guide” to remove the plastic scuttle cover below the wipers on a T6.1, so that you can check and clean the two front roof drain outlets? It looks as if you need to remove the wiper arms and then there seem to be two plastic covers under which I assume are the fixings.

I have read several roof drain strings where posters have got there but none seem to explain how exactly.

If you look at my post, you don't need to remove the cover. Just remove the 2 black metal plates, as 1 is shown on one of my pictures. Then you can access the drain outlets without having to remove the wipers.

 

[Viktorgeorge]

If you look at my post, you don't need to remove the cover. Just remove the 2 black metal plates, as 1 is shown on one of my pictures. Then you can access the drain outlets without having to remove the wipers.

I saw that @TripleBee, thanks, but yours is a T5 from your avatar I think. It looks completely different to my T6.1 so I think in my case the scuttle has to come off.

 

[TripleBee]

I saw that @TripleBee, thanks, but yours is a T5 from your avatar I think. It looks completely different to my T6.1 so I think in my case the scuttle has to come off.

View attachment 139668

View attachment 139669

View attachment 139670

The base vehicle is the same since 2003.
Your second picture shows the right Tx30 screw. The other one is on the other side, and you just have to take off the rubber above it.
The last picture shows the other black plate, behind the battery. In worst case, you take out the battery, leaving you enough space to take out that black plate, and then you have access to the roof drains, and you can clean out the void under the front window.
Just start with the black plate on the driver's side, you will see it doesn't involve a lot.

 

[sidepod]

Wipers off I’m afraid. Depends how “corroded on” they are. Pull off the plastic nut covers and remove the 13mm nuts. You’ll need a puller.
Passenger side is easy, drivers side not so as it’s very tight to the rear edge of the bonnet.
Halfords do a cheap and cheerful wiper arm puller.
Once off (you did take note of the exact orientation? Good), plastic trim tool along the bottom edge of the screen to unclip the cowling.
Remove the grommet on the passenger side that carries the wiring harness. Easy. Takes about 10 mins once you know what to do.
Take care of the fragile ribbon cables for the heated screen.
Anti seize on the wiper spindles so it’s easier next month when your drains are blocked again!

 

[Viktorgeorge]

The base vehicle is the same since 2003.
Your second picture shows the right Tx30 screw. The other one is on the other side, and you just have to take off the rubber above it.
The last picture shows the other black plate, behind the battery. In worst case, you take out the battery, leaving you enough space to take out that black plate, and then you have access to the roof drains, and you can clean out the void under the front window.
Just start with the black plate on the driver's side, you will see it doesn't involve a lot.

Thank you @TripleBee, I will follow your instruction, which I am grateful for.

 

[sidepod]

Good luck getting the rubber seal around the edge of the black plate back correctly!
Call me pedantic but the head of this bolt is under the cowling.

 

[Viktorgeorge]

Good luck getting the rubber seal around the edge of the black plate back correctly!
Call me pedantic but the head of this bolt is under the cowling.
View attachment 139699

I note your warning, thanks!

 

[TripleBee]

Good luck getting the rubber seal around the edge of the black plate back correctly!
Call me pedantic but the head of this bolt is under the cowling.
View attachment 139699

I did it to my van, and it works well.
I like to save work to myself and the possibility to break or damage parts of my van. The 2 invisible bolts on both plates are behind the cowling, but accessible. Just lift the cowling up, and have a 1/4" ratchet unscrewing the bolt.
I once installed cruise control on my Golf 4, and I damaged the front windscreen by putting back the cowling.