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Roof fault error message

Hi
Thanks for the guidance.
I get as far as step 5 and then it says error 1000 at the top. Underneath it says ERASE PRESS ESC 5S. Which is the escape button? Is 5S five times?
Cheers
Escape Button - Bottom R, and 5S is 5 seconds.
 
Does anyone have more detail on what causes these roof errors, other than “roof wiring”?
or how to diagnose it?
what do the sensors on the hydraulic struts do?
how the heck can I trace the fault when the roof is stuck closed?
our 2014 Cali has given errors 3 times now over about a month. Once it was “roof open” but this week it as just “roof error”. Both times the error code was 1000 and we couldn’t clear it with the control panel buttons.
each time it has just fixed itself and only then we were able to clear the error just by holding down the return button.
This week’s fault happened after we left the van in our drive for a few hours, on a cool sunny day. This suggests the system is upset by heat, which is going to be bad when summer arrives!
Being one of about 8 Calis in Australia, I’m not optimistic about any dealers being able to diagnose the error.
I believe our roof wiring was even replaced by a dealer in the UK before the previous owners brought it to Aus, so that is less than encouraging if it is that prone to failure. (Edit... oh look - Ken M is who we bought Cali from! So now I even know the date of the last repair, which was supposed to mean we’d have less faults now...)
im really not keen on going away on a trip as the weather warms up, knowing that our roof might stop working at any time.
 
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Does anyone have more detail on what causes these roof errors, other than “roof wiring”?
or how to diagnose it?
what do the sensors on the hydraulic struts do?
how the heck can I trace the fault when the roof is stuck closed?
our 2014 Cali has given errors 3 times now over about a month. Once it was “roof open” but this week it as just “roof error”. Both times the error code was 1000 and we couldn’t clear it with the control panel buttons.
each time it has just fixed itself and only then we were able to clear the error just by holding down the return button.
This week’s fault happened after we left the van in our drive for a few hours, on a cool sunny day. This suggests the system is upset by heat, which is going to be bad when summer arrives!
Being one of about 8 Calis in Australia, I’m not optimistic about any dealers being able to diagnose the error.
I believe our roof wiring was even replaced by a dealer in the UK before the previous owners brought it to Aus, so that is less than encouraging if it is that prone to failure. (Edit... oh look - Ken M is who we bought Cali from! So now I even know the date of the last repair, which was supposed to mean we’d have less faults now...)
im really not keen on going away on a trip as the weather warms up, knowing that our roof might stop working at any time.

There is a good post on here about how to convert to a manual roof; Might be worth investigating if the issues persist.

 
LOL
I’ve already asked for the tutorial, but I’m really hoping I don’t have to go that far. ;-/
 
Further testing of our roof system today has me convinced that it is the hydraulic pump heat protection that is playing up.
The roof symbol on the control panel is flashing, which the manual says is what happens when the pump has overheated and needs a minute to cool down.
This is happening when the van is parked in the sun. It went into fault today in our driveway so we covered the front of the roof with an insulated windscreen protector, and after about an hour it came good again.
If it was the sensors on the hydraulic struts then surely it wouldn't come good without doing something to them? They all look undamaged so it seems unlikely that a simple magnetic switch becomes faulty without physical damage.
All we need now is someone familiar with the heat protection circuit to help identify why it thinks it's too hot...
 
I was able to reset the code 1000 on my 2013 T5 Cali SE. It popped up in the morning after driving the car for a few minutes, following a night of rain and winds.

It wouldn’t reset in the diagnose menu, as described, despite a message to the contrary.

To reset it I did this at the next camping stop:

- roof is open
- put in the car key and turned it to ON position without starting the car
- the camper with open roof icon started to flash on the panel
- I pressed and held the bottom right button for a few seconds
- the icon stopped flashing
- I checked the diagnostics menu again and the error was now gone from the list

I can’t re-confirm this as the error is gone now, but hopefully this will help someone.
 
I was able to reset the code 1000 on my 2013 T5 Cali SE. It popped up in the morning after driving the car for a few minutes, following a night of rain and winds.

It wouldn’t reset in the diagnose menu, as described, despite a message to the contrary.

To reset it I did this at the next camping stop:

- roof is open
- put in the car key and turned it to ON position without starting the car
- the camper with open roof icon started to flash on the panel
- I pressed and held the bottom right button for a few seconds
- the icon stopped flashing
- I checked the diagnostics menu again and the error was now gone from the list

I can’t re-confirm this as the error is gone now, but hopefully this will help someone.
I thought this was the answer to our problem! It was looking so promising!! However, the error code returned when the roof was shut again Thank you anyway!
 
I thought this was the answer to our problem! It was looking so promising!! However, the error code returned when the roof was shut again Thank you anyway!
My problem returned also. The van is booked into a mechanic for some maintenance and they will also look at the electrical or sensor issue with the roof.

The hydraulics work fine, which is why I believe the problem is either a loose electrical cable or a sensor malfunction.

I guess we’ll see next week.
 
My problem returned also. The van is booked into a mechanic for some maintenance and they will also look at the electrical or sensor issue with the roof.

The hydraulics work fine, which is why I believe the problem is either a loose electrical cable or a sensor malfunction.

I guess we’ll see next week.
It will be the Sensors. Only one needs to fail.
Kernow Transporters, in Cornwall, disable the sensors and use a separate switch or a remote control system to activate the motor.
 
Is there a
It will be the Sensors. Only one needs to fail.
Kernow Transporters, in Cornwall, disable the sensors and use a separate switch or a remote control system to activate the motor.
To your knowledge is there an electrical diagram and a guide that shows how to get to those sensors?

The garage I’m taking my van to does not specialize in transporters, but do crash repairs and work on electrical systems. It would help them work faster (and cheaper for me) if I was able to share this information with them.
 
Is there a

To your knowledge is there an electrical diagram and a guide that shows how to get to those sensors?

The garage I’m taking my van to does not specialize in transporters, but do crash repairs and work on electrical systems. It would help them work faster (and cheaper for me) if I was able to share this information with them.
I just took photos of the outside roof sensors under the covers. They look fine to me, no discernible corrosion. Hmmm. Are there other sensors than these that might be faulty?

IMG_3972.jpeg

IMG_3971.jpeg

IMG_3970.jpeg

IMG_3969.jpeg
 
I just took photos of the outside roof sensors under the covers. They look fine to me, no discernible corrosion. Hmmm. Are there other sensors than these that might be faulty?

View attachment 109308

View attachment 109309

View attachment 109310

View attachment 109311

 

Thank you.
 
@WelshGas I got my car mechanic to change all four sensors, as per the article you linked. That went well enough, although he had to disconnect the hydraulic hoses to do it as there was no way to remove the sensors without possible damage to the hydraulics. No problem, he refilled the special hydraulic oil and then opened the roof just fine.

However, now a new "Fault 1000" error appears when he tries to close the roof. It refuses to close. He intends to release it manually and then strap the roof down, if he can't work it out by later today.

Is there anything you can think of that might help?
He's been checking forums but found nothing that worked since yesterday, he tells me. He did call up a specialist camper workshop this morning and they told him that normally new sensors come with new wiring. The BMW sensors came on their own. He did not change the wiring, just the sensors. So, perhaps it's that, but he says it looks like it's not easy to change the wiring as it goes inside the van.

At this moment it looks like I'll probably have to take it to VW and they will insist on replacing the sensors again for sure. I'd like to avoid double charges if I can help it.

Any help or pointers are greatly appreciated.
 
@WelshGas I got my car mechanic to change all four sensors, as per the article you linked. That went well enough, although he had to disconnect the hydraulic hoses to do it as there was no way to remove the sensors without possible damage to the hydraulics. No problem, he refilled the special hydraulic oil and then opened the roof just fine.

However, now a new "Fault 1000" error appears when he tries to close the roof. It refuses to close. He intends to release it manually and then strap the roof down, if he can't work it out by later today.

Is there anything you can think of that might help?
He's been checking forums but found nothing that worked since yesterday, he tells me. He did call up a specialist camper workshop this morning and they told him that normally new sensors come with new wiring. The BMW sensors came on their own. He did not change the wiring, just the sensors. So, perhaps it's that, but he says it looks like it's not easy to change the wiring as it goes inside the van.

At this moment it looks like I'll probably have to take it to VW and they will insist on replacing the sensors again for sure. I'd like to avoid double charges if I can help it.

Any help or pointers are greatly appreciated.
Sorry to hear that. Others on the Forum have just changed the sensors, but didn't have to disconnect any Hydraulic lines as far as I am aware.
I wonder if there is an airlock?
You can power the pump directly using a 12v supply or maybe manually release the pressure then retry opening the roof.
 
Sorry to hear that. Others on the Forum have just changed the sensors, but didn't have to disconnect any Hydraulic lines as far as I am aware.
I wonder if there is an airlock?
You can power the pump directly using a 12v supply or maybe manually release the pressure then retry opening the roof.

What do you mean by airlock? Is it perhaps something to do with bleeding the air out of the hydraulic system?

They did manually release the roof to close it and then used a 12v source to lock it in place, but the fault still persists. The roof is now closed and locked, at least that's good, as I don't have to get it strapped down.

I will pick up the van tomorrow. Perhaps a miracle will happen overnight and it will start to work again

Thanks for your help.
 
What do you mean by airlock? Is it perhaps something to do with bleeding the air out of the hydraulic system?

They did manually release the roof to close it and then used a 12v source to lock it in place, but the fault still persists. The roof is now closed and locked, at least that's good, as I don't have to get it strapped down.

I will pick up the van tomorrow. Perhaps a miracle will happen overnight and it will start to work again

Thanks for your help.
Has the Fault code been cleared on the Control Panel?

Any airlock in the hydraulic system should be cleared by raising/lowering the roof a number of times.
 
The fault refuses to go away, unfortunately. I will be picking the van up later today and will try to clear it myself like I did before the sensor replacement. Hoping for miracles here.

Yes, they cleared the airlock by raising/lowering several times. They manually operated the motor with a 12V battery to do that, as the panel refuses to activate the hydraulics due to the fault.
 
The fault refuses to go away, unfortunately. I will be picking the van up later today and will try to clear it myself like I did before the sensor replacement. Hoping for miracles here.

Yes, they cleared the airlock by raising/lowering several times. They manually operated the motor with a 12V battery to do that, as the panel refuses to activate the hydraulics due to the fault.
Unfortunately the Diagnostic capability is not sufficient to identify the particular sensors and I suppose there is the possibility that 1 of the replaced sensors is faulty.
There is a firm in Cornwall, Kernow Transporters, who retrofit California hydraulic roofs to conversions. Very knowledgeable and helpful. A Forum member used them recently. Same problem with roof. They disabled the sensors, fitted a manual switch and also a remote control system using a dedicated fob to open/close the roof. About £450 I believe.


 
Unfortunately the Diagnostic capability is not sufficient to identify the particular sensors and I suppose there is the possibility that 1 of the replaced sensors is faulty.
There is a firm in Cornwall, Kernow Transporters, who retrofit California hydraulic roofs to conversions. Very knowledgeable and helpful. A Forum member used them recently. Same problem with roof. They disabled the sensors, fitted a manual switch and also a remote control system using a dedicated fob to open/close the roof. About £450 I believe.


I got the van back. The panel still shows the roof fault and I can't clear it at all. Holding for 5 seconds doesn't work and holding for 30 seconds (to reset the whole unit) also doesn't work. In fact I can't turn off the unit at all now and the roof fault is displayed at all times. So, that sucks.

The strange thing is that this morning they were able to close the roof from the panel, after leaving it open overnight and it sagging a bit. However, when it's fully open or fully closed it displays the roof fault and refuses to work from the panel. Almost as if one of the sensors themselves is working opposite to what it should. The mechanic said he measure the voltages across them, but could not

My mechanic said he can fit a manual switch to operate the pump, but he does not know how to disable the sensors or turn off the bing-bing-bing sound that comes on every time I start driving and randomly during the drive.

To your knowledge is there a way to turn off the roof open alarm?
 
I got the van back. The panel still shows the roof fault and I can't clear it at all. Holding for 5 seconds doesn't work and holding for 30 seconds (to reset the whole unit) also doesn't work. In fact I can't turn off the unit at all now and the roof fault is displayed at all times. So, that sucks.

The strange thing is that this morning they were able to close the roof from the panel, after leaving it open overnight and it sagging a bit. However, when it's fully open or fully closed it displays the roof fault and refuses to work from the panel. Almost as if one of the sensors themselves is working opposite to what it should. The mechanic said he measure the voltages across them, but could not

My mechanic said he can fit a manual switch to operate the pump, but he does not know how to disable the sensors or turn off the bing-bing-bing sound that comes on every time I start driving and randomly during the drive.

To your knowledge is there a way to turn off the roof open alarm?
Yes, you can turn off the alarm, but I’m afraid I don’t know how.
Here is a link to the wiring diagram. I presume you would disconnect one of the plugs, possibly No 2.


It might be worthwhile phoning or emailing Kernow Transporters and explain the problem. I gather they are helpful. Sorry I can’t be of anymore use.
 
Thanks a lot :)

I have been reading your posts on many other threads and they have all been helpful!
 
I got the van back. The panel still shows the roof fault and I can't clear it at all. Holding for 5 seconds doesn't work and holding for 30 seconds (to reset the whole unit) also doesn't work. In fact I can't turn off the unit at all now and the roof fault is displayed at all times. So, that sucks
Have you tried disconnecting the control panel from the back and then reconnecting, might be worth a try as you will need to do a reset when reconnected.
 
Hi I wrote the instructions to switch sensors. Maybe the electrician connected them wrong? It is possible. Odd you didn’t have any sign of damage on the sensors. Or you have a problem with the hydraulics. It is definitely worth resetting everything you can. With me charging the batteries and weirdly setting the clock (after the batteries had been disconnected) were vital. The panel wouldn’t work until I had done that.

Otherwise, for £450, it’s hard to argue with the Kernow fix that seems to bypass the sensors and wiring loom altogether. I still don’t quite understand how they do that but they seem to have happy customers.
 
Hi I wrote the instructions to switch sensors. Maybe the electrician connected them wrong? It is possible. Odd you didn’t have any sign of damage on the sensors. Or you have a problem with the hydraulics. It is definitely worth resetting everything you can. With me charging the batteries and weirdly setting the clock (after the batteries had been disconnected) were vital. The panel wouldn’t work until I had done that.

Otherwise, for £450, it’s hard to argue with the Kernow fix that seems to bypass the sensors and wiring loom altogether. I still don’t quite understand how they do that but they seem to have happy customers.
Hi and thanks for commenting. It's good to hear from the one who did it successfully :)

I did not know that the sensors could be connected in a wrong way. Is there something specific that could be done wrong when connecting them? Can the sensors be connected upside down, or in some way that the magnets don't function as they should?

The mechanic was completely puzzled by them not working and said it seemed straight forward to replace them. He checked the wiring and the sensors and all have voltage passing through them from the sensor to the panel, he said.

I did not see the sensors myself, as he ordered the ones you listed directly from his supplier (for a rather low cost of around 13 EUR each).

I will try disconnecting the panel, as you suggest and resetting the system.

He said some of the old sensors were corroded and some had their plastic housing cracked.

About the bypass, hopefully he will do that next week for me. I live in the Netherlands and the one VW camper dealer that has diagnostic equipment to hunt down what error 1000 means can't see me until the end of July :(
 

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