rooftop doesn't open anymore

[filphodeblieck]

Hello,

First post, checked out forum and didn't found what I was looking for.
Living in Belgium, driving a T5 with DSG7 since 2015, travelling in Europe for at least 5 weeks a year.

I have a 'roof fault' on my display. At the beginning I heard the electro motor(hydraulic actuation) for a few seconds when I pushed the knob. The rooftop didn't move, I could push 'close' again and heard the roof fasten.

I went to my dealer, they told me it was a sensor problem and they could repair it. The sensors + cable tree costs 473€ + x hours work...

I bought sensors from a BMW dealer (found the partnumber on your site, thanks!). But...

I can't open the roof anymore.
I tried to take out the the display unit, the clips at both sides are no problem. But I can't reach the two clips at the top of the unit.

I downloaded the Lambeth cali pdf and we (with the help of my son in law) think we can swap the sensors, only if the roof opens...

I hope someone can help...

Filpho

 

[flying banana]

Undo the bleed screw on the pump behind the display. The hydraulic lock is now gone. The roof should then be able to be lifted up manually and propped up with something

 

[filphodeblieck]

Thanks for your reply!
The first problem is that I can't take out the display, as you can see the clips at the sides are opened. I can't open the top clips because I can't pentrate there with a spudger. (I am affraid to damage the display unit when I push to hard...)
greetz,
filpho

 

[Alan Andrews]

Seems to be a common issue with the upper tangs.

Check out the videos posted by WelshGas here.

Control panel removal

I've read that you have to connect the small plugs back first when you install a new control unit - but is there any order in which you need to remove them in the first place??

vwcaliforniaclub.com

please update once completed.

 

[Lambeth Cali]

There’s no way around it I think. Just keep trying. I would suggest pushing it back in again and then starting with the top next time maybe.
YouTube can be helpful.
I’ve taken mine out twice and replaced for a new one.

I don’t have any tools so I use a small sharp blade from a Swiss Army knife.

 

[EddieEagle]

this shows the offending tags, taken from the internet somewhere……

 

[filphodeblieck]

Thanks for help!
I got the display out, I first released the side clips and then easily found the upper clips (since I knew where to push ;-) The display came out.

All cables are correctly plugged in, the fuse is ok.
But I still can't open my roof. Pushing hard does nothing, electro-motor does not work at all (when pushing on the round knob (roof/open)).

I'm now looking to release the screw behind the foam, there is already a little hole in the foam but it's difficult to find which type of screwdriver I need. Or do i have to remove all the foam (it's difficult to replace properly I assume)

Feels not good to ask so much, but in my opinion this is not at all explained in the california manual (shame on you VW).

Thanks for helping me, I love this forum...

gr
filpho

 

[Lambeth Cali]

When he undoes the screw to manually raise the roof, does that somehow stop the hydraulics working?
When he’s replaced the sensors, will the hydraulics work? Or has releasing the screw stopped them working?

I don’t know as I didn’t need to do that.

 

[WelshGas]

Thanks for help!
I got the display out, I first released the side clips and then easily found the upper clips (since I knew where to push ;-) The display came out.

All cables are correctly plugged in, the fuse is ok.
But I still can't open my roof. Pushing hard does nothing, electro-motor does not work at all (when pushing on the round knob (roof/open)).

I'm now looking to release the screw behind the foam, there is already a little hole in the foam but it's difficult to find which type of screwdriver I need. Or do i have to remove all the foam (it's difficult to replace properly I assume)

Feels not good to ask so much, but in my opinion this is not at all explained in the california manual (shame on you VW).

Thanks for helping me, I love this forum...

gr
filpho

Is the Control Panel showing any error codes?



Check Control Panel Diagnostics.

Control Panel Off and wait 30 secs

Control Panel On

Press and Hold R lower button and then press Control Knob for 5 secs.

New Hidden Menu . Scroll to VW Diagnostics.

If there are any codes shown, take note and then Reset/Clear.

Return to Main Menu.

Switch Off Control Panel using L lower button. Wait 30 secs and Switch On.

Try Roof/Heater or Fridge

 

[filphodeblieck]

An update, I finally opened the roof (a few centimeter). Driving to my son in law this afternoon (with a strap on the roof). Hope we can swap the sensors this evening and that this will do the job!

Grateful,

filpho

 

[EddieEagle]

If I recall the hydraulic release screw needs straight screwdriver. The one in the toolkit will work ..

 

[flying banana]

Flat blade screw driver.

 

[Steve1]

An update, I finally opened the roof (a few centimeter). Driving to my son in law this afternoon (with a strap on the roof). Hope we can swap the sensors this evening and that this will do the job!

Grateful,

filpho

How did you open the roof in the end ? Did releasing the hydraulic screw thing allow the roof to be pushed up ?

 

[Azteccamper]

An update, I finally opened the roof (a few centimeter). Driving to my son in law this afternoon (with a strap on the roof). Hope we can swap the sensors this evening and that this will do the job!

Grateful,

filpho

Good stuff. Could you let us know how you opened roof please?

 

[filphodeblieck]

How did you open the roof in the end ? Did releasing the hydraulic screw thing allow the roof to be pushed up ?

Now it didn't, above the passenger's seat I could open it some cm. At the other site it stayed locked. We finally removed the headline and all other stuff (mirror, ...). We connected the 12V battery to the connector of electromotor (that pump's the hydraulics) and it opened. Swapping the positive and negative pool would close the roof.

 

[filphodeblieck]

And finally we swapped the sensors to, and the rooftop works normal now! Swapping the sensors was much more easy than removing the headline...
We are very happy! Thanks to this forum we repaired for €60 in stead of (at least) €800!

Greatings,

filip

 

[Mrs J.H]

Undo the bleed screw on the pump behind the display. The hydraulic lock is now gone. The roof should then be able to be lifted up manually and propped up with something

Hi not sure if this is the right to post this, we’re having the 1000 roof fault. Hubby gonna attempt to fix it but we are unable to get the roof up. He has removed the screw but it won’t budge!!! We refuse to pay the £2500 local vw. Any suggestions please??

 

[WelshGas]

Hi not sure if this is the right to post this, we’re having the 1000 roof fault. Hubby gonna attempt to fix it but we are unable to get the roof up. He has removed the screw but it won’t budge!!! We refuse to pay the £2500 local vw. Any suggestions please??

See Post 15 above.

 

[Mrs J.H]

See Post 15 above.

Tried that didn’t work now trying to locate pump & connect driectly to that!!

 

[WelshGas]

Tried that didn’t work now trying to locate pump & connect driectly to that!!

Post 15 referred to exposing the pump and connecting a 12v supply.
So that didn't work in your case?

 

[vbk1975]

Tried that didn’t work now trying to locate pump & connect driectly to that!!

Make sure the bleed screw is tight again before applying power directly to the motor.

 

[Deshorton]

Hi from NZ. My control panel for operating camping equipment including the hydraulic roof has failed. The van is a 2006 t5 California so getting on a bit. The cost of a new control unit is extremely high. I am hoping I can do without it. I have worked through the circuit diagrams and just about figured out how the system works. The system happened to fail when I had the roof elevated so used the emergency lowering method using the screw to release the hydraulics, manually lowered the roof and secured the roof with ties.

I want to install manual toggle switches to raise it, lower it, and have hydraulics locked in so don't need the securing ties as per original system when controller working. There is 4 times 0.35 wires that go from the J 768 hydraulic control unit to the controller ( now failed). What I don’t know is how these control wires work, are they some sort of switch combination that I could copy or do they send a voltage signal to the J768 unit. Also the ignition has to be on when operating the roof so also trying to understand where the higher capacity feed comes in. I can see where they go. 26 and 27 on one of the J768 plugs to the hydraulic pump, same one as the 4 times 0.35 control wires come from, and 25 and 26 on the other.

Using toggle switches has been mentioned before so hoping someone can help me out.

 

[vbk1975]

Hi from NZ. My control panel for operating camping equipment including the hydraulic roof has failed. The van is a 2006 t5 California so getting on a bit. The cost of a new control unit is extremely high. I am hoping I can do without it. I have worked through the circuit diagrams and just about figured out how the system works. The system happened to fail when I had the roof elevated so used the emergency lowering method using the screw to release the hydraulics, manually lowered the roof and secured the roof with ties.

I want to install manual toggle switches to raise it, lower it, and have hydraulics locked in so don't need the securing ties as per original system when controller working. There is 4 times 0.35 wires that go from the J 768 hydraulic control unit to the controller ( now failed). What I don’t know is how these control wires work, are they some sort of switch combination that I could copy or do they send a voltage signal to the J768 unit. Also the ignition has to be on when operating the roof so also trying to understand where the higher capacity feed comes in. I can see where they go. 26 and 27 on one of the J768 plugs to the hydraulic pump, same one as the 4 times 0.35 control wires come from, and 25 and 26 on the other.

Using toggle switches has been mentioned before so hoping someone can help me out.

Hello !

Firstly lots of people have had the panels successfully repaired - Ed @ElectronicEquipmentRepair does an excellent job, I know being in NZ this is less than ideal!!

As far as your question.

The four wires are in fact two control signals and two status signals.

So using the Roof ECU (not control panel) pin numbering.

Pin 9 and Pin 10 are outputs to the control panel and they give the roof status. (They should be zero with the ign off, slight delay after ign is switched on or off of a few seconds)

So Pin 9 should be ~4.5v when not fully open and ~12v when fully open (Note this is with the control panel in circuit)

Pin 10 should be ~4.5v when not fully closed and ~12v when fully closed (Again this is with the control panel in circuit)

Both Pin 9 and 10 being at ~12v is the error flag to the camper panel.

For the the control side

Applying 12v to Pin 22 will close it - note that once the closed sensor has been sensed during the close, the roof ECU will continue to operate the pump for a few seconds to fully lock the roof. Once in this mode of running on the status lines won’t show closed until this is complete. So it is a little bit more complex to determine state.

Applying 12v to Pin 23 with open it, again the motor will run on after the sensors is detected.

The roof ECU is the one that deals with the power switching and also has its own ign feed.

Note you might have to keep the control panel in circuit to make this work as it has resistors inside to hold the voltages when not active. But I can’t be sure - I can test on my rig on Friday, but I am away from it until then.

Andrew

 

[Deshorton]

Hello !

Firstly lots of people have had the panels successfully repaired - Ed @ElectronicEquipmentRepair does an excellent job, I know being in NZ this is less than ideal!!

As far as your question.

The four wires are in fact two control signals and two status signals.

So using the Roof ECU (not control panel) pin numbering.

Pin 9 and Pin 10 are outputs to the control panel and they give the roof status. (They should be zero with the ign off, slight delay after ign is switched on or off of a few seconds)

So Pin 9 should be ~4.5v when not fully open and ~12v when fully open (Note this is with the control panel in circuit)

Pin 10 should be ~4.5v when not fully closed and ~12v when fully closed (Again this is with the control panel in circuit)

Both Pin 9 and 10 being at ~12v is the error flag to the camper panel.

For the the control side

Applying 12v to Pin 22 will close it - note that once the closed sensor has been sensed during the close, the roof ECU will continue to operate the pump for a few seconds to fully lock the roof. Once in this mode of running on the status lines won’t show closed until this is complete. So it is a little bit more complex to determine state.

Applying 12v to Pin 23 with open it, again the motor will run on after the sensors is detected.

The roof ECU is the one that deals with the power switching and also has its own ign feed.

Note you might have to keep the control panel in circuit to make this work as it has resistors inside to hold the voltages when not active. But I can’t be sure - I can test on my rig on Friday, but I am away from it until then.

Andrew

 

[Deshorton]

Andrew, thank you for the info. I tried putting a signal on the terminals you suggested. Just put the 12 volt signal without a negative as I assumed the negative earth connection would already be on the tbx plug and J768 unit. With and without the ignition on. There seems to be multiple feeds to the control panel and J768 snd still trying to figure them out, all fuse are ok. Big job but I am trying to trace all the wires and draw my own circuit diagram.the roof did open and close satisfactorily by putting 12v on the 2 pin plug directly connected to hydraulic motor.

Des