Solar panel fitting and review

briwy · Sep 5, 2016

snowy55 said:
Hi Roger
What do you use in the channel to stop the bolt head coming up through the slot?

If there's just a bolt in the channel how can you tighten it??

snowy55 · Sep 5, 2016

briwy said:
If there's just a bolt in the channel how can you tighten it??

Not very well if 2 have come loose!!
This is what I'm trying to find out.

On mine with the 17mm nuts, which will not come up through the slot, you put a flat bladed screw driver into the gap between the bolt head and the side of the channel which means that when you've removed the screw driver the nuts just rotate when you try to undo them, which to me is a bit of an anti theft feature.

Roger Donoghue · Sep 5, 2016

If you have the early version with the large bolt then as Snowy said, you put a flat bladed screwdriver in the slot and let it get "jammed" as you tighten the nut.

I'm wondering if, in the heat, the coach bolts (on the newer, rectangular brackets) are expanding and getting a tiny bit longer, enough to allow for a small amount of movement.

briwy · Sep 5, 2016

T

snowy55 said:
Not very well if 2 have come loose!!
This is what I'm trying to find out.

On mine with the 17mm nuts, which will not come up through the slot, you put a flat bladed screw driver into the gap between the bolt head and the side of the channel which means that when you've removed the screw driver the nuts just rotate when you try to undo them, which to me is a bit of an anti theft feature.

Thats why I welded plates onto the bolt to stop it turning when it's tightened.

Loz · Sep 5, 2016

briwy said:
I would say direct to the battery negative battery terminal. The Cali display surely displays the battery voltage regardless of where the power is coming from.

BTW. I've put some spring washers under the locknuts so that if they should come loose slightly the washer will keep a bit of tension on the bolt. Scary that the whole lot slid off.

Only the shunt should be connected to the battery everything else should be on the other side as the Cali display calculates usage and subtracts charge, if you charge from behind the shunt direct to the battery it wouldn't take the charge into account and you will show a very slight difference in voltage as the shunt is a resistor.

snowy55 · Sep 12, 2016

Saw a T5 conversion driving towards me at the weekend with his solar panel flapping in the breeze, so I've made some brackets to positively hold mine on if the glue gives way.

Bramco · Sep 12, 2016

I've pop riveted mine to the frame essentially at the points where there are dips in the roof, so the protrusion underneath won't be anywhere near the roof surface.

Punchy England · Sep 27, 2016

Sorry about this but can anyone help me. I have a 100w suitcase type solar panel. It used to just work on my old converted camper. I now have a California 2015 SE. I plugged it into the rear cabin "cigarette lighter" socket. It me a sound like rapid pulsing so I dare not leave it in.

1. Can I just plug my solar panel into the output sockets. I have three on my 2015 California SE. One in the cigarette tray, one on the dashboard and one in the rear storage area?

2. Could it be that I have it set for the wrong type of battery. I have it set for lead acid but don't know whether it might be gel battery.

Thanks for all the above - but I couldn't see the answer to my questions. I worry about causing electic problems elsewhere.

Thanks in advance
Barry

stephen watson · Sep 27, 2016

Punchy England said:
Sorry about this but can anyone help me. I have a 100w suitcase type solar panel. It used to just work on my old converted camper. I now have a California 2015 SE. I plugged it into the rear cabin "cigarette lighter" socket. It me a sound like rapid pulsing so I dare not leave it in.

1. Can I just plug my solar panel into the output sockets. I have three on my 2015 California SE. One in the cigarette tray, one on the dashboard and one in the rear storage area?

2. Could it be that I have it set for the wrong type of battery. I have it set for lead acid but don't know whether it might be gel battery.

Thanks for all the above - but I couldn't see the answer to my questions. I worry about causing electic problems elsewhere.

Thanks in advance
Barry

Hi Barry
I'm not an electrician but I'm fairly sure you shouldn't plug the output of a solar panel into one of the output sockets. I don't think they work in reverse and I would advise you not to try it again before someone more knowledgeable replies - the danger is that you could damage the electrical system in your van I would have thought.

WelshGas · Sep 27, 2016

Normally, the Cigarette lighter socket is powered from the engine battery.

Fixed Solar Panels are normally wired into one of the leisure batteries. The California has complicated electrical circuits and electronics and I think they do advise against using plug in chargers, although some members have/do use this method.
Personally I would fit a dedicated socket, 15amp fuse, wired to the rear leisure battery found below the rear wardrobe. There is a removable inspection plate there and I would fit the plug in that or alongside.
The standard batteries are Gel type.

Roger Donoghue · Sep 28, 2016

Just to reassure you, the Sikaflex will never let go of the aluminium frame. I've tried removing the angle bar by force and there is no chance at all. I even tried ripping it off and the panel just bent with the aluminium angle bar. Even with a sharp blade I gave up after a few minutes as it was too tough going.

I have now made a few amendments to the kit following customer feedback.

1) It now comes with shorter bolts so the nut caps sit on the nuts properly with the nuts done up tight.

2) I now remove the PET (plastic) covering at the panel corners. This stops the PET getting squashed by the nut and washer, and consequently, in hot weather, peeling up. If you find the plastic on the corners are peeling away from the panel then cut the plastic with a sharp knife as in the picture below. You can then restick the plastic down by heating it with a heat gun or hair dryer and pressing it down firmly. The heat reactivates the glue on the panel.

3) I also now fit two lateral strengthening ribs along the sides of the panels. This is not normally needed but I've had one customer who regularly does over 100Mph in the Autobahns suffer panel vibrations. This stops that and is easy enough to fit to all new kits.

Punchy England · Sep 30, 2016

WelshGas said:
Normally, the Cigarette lighter socket is powered from the engine battery.

Fixed Solar Panels are normally wired into one of the leisure batteries. The California has complicated electrical circuits and electronics and I think they do advise against using plug in chargers, although some members have/do use this method.
Personally I would fit a dedicated socket, 15amp fuse, wired to the rear leisure battery found below the rear wardrobe. There is a removable inspection plate there and I would fit the plug in that or alongside.
The standard batteries are Gel type.

Thanks for that, I think that I will fit a socket into that panel. Probably a DIN socket which is what I did on my previous van which was a conversion.

larrylamb · Feb 14, 2017

Loz said:
You should never rely on the chassis for return, period.

Not being arsey Loz but didn't you use the chassis for a return with your Dashcam??

Loz · Feb 14, 2017

larrylamb said:
Not being arsey Loz but didn't you use the chassis for a return with your Dashcam??

But the dash cam is milliamps, split chargers and the like that we were talking about is the issue. My response was about battery cables involving potentially 100s of amps if things go wrong.

kave · Feb 18, 2017

Another option, a bit expensive though:
http://barden-uk.com/product/solara-power-mobil-plus/

snowy55 · Feb 18, 2017

kave said:
Another option, a bit expensive though:
http://barden-uk.com/product/solara-power-mobil-plus/

Can't imagine your panels will be there when you come back from a day out.

Roger Donoghue · May 6, 2017

An important update:

One member has found that after 2 years, the rubber washers under the brackets had perished and disintegrated, leaving a small gap, and consequently, the brackets loose, allowing the panel to move.

Please check your brackets for tightness, and remove the supplied rubber washers if used.

MattBW · May 6, 2017

snowy55 said:
Can't imagine your panels will be there when you come back from a day out.

At that price they might not be there at the start of the day lol. Wow that's a lot of dosh for the capacity.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Miha_p · May 14, 2018

The wiring should be like this? am i correct?

thanx
Miha

WelshGas · May 14, 2018

Miha_p said:
View attachment 33153
The wiring should be like this? am i correct?

thanx
Miha

Correct.

briwy · May 14, 2018

Check your controller bumph to see whether you connect the panel or battery first. Sometimes important.

Wongo · May 14, 2018

Good service from Roger, it took me about 45 minute to do and I’m not that hot.

I just fed the wire by the roof hinge then swezzed it over the top of the cupboard then down to the controller on the shelf then the battery.

Roger Donoghue · May 14, 2018

Great to hear it!

Yes, always connect the charger/regulator to the battery first, then connect the solar. This is because the regulator checks to see if you have a 12v or 24v battery and if the solar is pushing over 20v, and you connect the battery at that exact moment, it can mistakenly think you have a 24v system. I've only every heard of this happening once - from a Cali customer. You then go into the software (if it is the Victron) and force the battery voltage to 12v, or, disconnect and start the connections again.

Saff · Jun 3, 2018

Just wanted to let you all know that Roger at Solarsolutions (as above) has just fitted a single 110w panel to my 2015 SE and it’s a top notch job. 5 days camping... fridge, lights, phones, dvds etc all with little dent on leisure batteries. Recommend the MPPT Bluetooth charger for a discreet job. Many thanks Roger.

Ethel's dad · Aug 7, 2018

I have been toying with the idea of installing a solar system on my T6 for some time and have now finally taken the plunge. Having looked around I really liked Rogers setup but had seen a really nice aluminium solar panel mount from Switzerland which I preferred, the price however was mind boggling so I attempted to have it made myself. I think it has come out quite well and for a similar cost to Rogers solution. All seems to work well and fully removable should the roof have problems.