T5.1 Parasitic Drain Fuse SB12

C

charlie16161

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7
Location
UK
Vehicle
T7 California Ocean 4 Motion
I've got a parasitic drain on my T5.1 and eventually established its on fuse SB12 which is the light switch circuit. I've confirmed its this circuit by pulling the fuse. Problem I have now is establishing what actually runs on this circuit. I've removed the switch itself and the terminals all look clean. Retested with the switch out and the drain is still there.
Does anybody out there know what else runs on this circuit?
Thanks
 
I've got a parasitic drain on my T5.1 and eventually established its on fuse SB12 which is the light switch circuit. I've confirmed its this circuit by pulling the fuse. Problem I have now is establishing what actually runs on this circuit. I've removed the switch itself and the terminals all look clean. Retested with the switch out and the drain is still there.
Does anybody out there know what else runs on this circuit?
Thanks
Fuse for Lighting switch E1

Possibly Headlight switch. Check Parking lights.

The "light switch E1" on a VW Transporter likely refers to the headlight switch. Specifically, it could be the switch that controls the vehicle's headlights and potentially other exterior lights.The "E1" designation is likely an internal code used by Volkswagen for this specific component.

Here's a more detailed breakdown:
  • Headlight Switch:
    The primary function of the E1 switch is to allow the driver to select different headlight modes, such as parking lights, low beams, high beams, and potentially fog lights.

  • "E1" Designation:
    In Volkswagen's internal system, components are often assigned codes. "E1" is likely the code for the headlight switch.

  • Potential Issues:
    A faulty headlight switch can lead to various problems, including headlights not working, flickering, or only working in certain modes.

  • Ross-Tech Wiki Reference:
    The Ross-Tech Wiki mentions "Light Switch (E1)" in relation to fault codes and potential issues with the parking light status lamp and self-dimming rearview mirror.
 
I suppose looking at a wiring diagram is out of the question??
 
1755525087940.png
Starter for 10, so any of those outputs from the switch that SB12 feeds.
 
Starts from page 65
 
Thanks for your replies - I'm not brilliant with electrics but a multi meter test showed a draw of .13 milliamps so I did the test of pulling the fuses individually to identify it then cross checked the fuse directly and they both point towards this as the culprit. For the time being I've pulled the fuse and the battery power drop has stopped but obvs cant drive like this! All the lights are working ok and again I can confirm its the correct circuit as when the fuse is out the light switch doesnt work and the dash panel isn't illuminated. I suppose its just a case of trying to identify and test whatever is in this circuit. Any ideas on what I might be looking for? I dont really want to start pulling cables as that sort of thing is above my pay grade!
 
Just to add to that - I've bought one of those Bluetooth battery testers from Amazon - before I pulled fuse 12 it was showing the battery on less than 50% and 11.8v. Since I've pulled it (and it hasnt been on charge nor have I started the engine) its improved to 74% and 12.6v.
 
Are you testing this with the van fully asleep?
 
Do you leave the van with the light switch set to AUTO or do you fully switch it OFF? I've seen this be the cause of parasitic drain before. Something to do with a bad photo cell.
May be worth trying both scenarios to see if there is a change?
 
Do you leave the van with the light switch set to AUTO or do you fully switch it OFF? I've seen this be the cause of parasitic drain before. Something to do with a bad photo cell.
May be worth trying both scenarios to see if there is a change?
Thanks for your reply again. I dont have an AUTO setting. The only settings are for OFF Sidelight and Dipped with the Fog lights further down on the left. Just checking though. I removed and disconnected the switch and it made no difference so I assume can I eliminate the actual switch as the cause?
 
If you removed the switch and saw no difference then you can discount anything down stream of that.
Are you sure it’s that fuse?

Apologies if I’m telling you something you know but, you do have to let the van go to sleep before doing any tests.
This means key out and any doors left open need to have the latches sprung closed to fool the van they’re closed. This goes for the bonnet too.
Leave it alone for 15 mins and it should be asleep.
If any modules are still awake they will fool you and give a high draw. As ever, YouTube is your friend.
 
If you removed the switch and saw no difference then you can discount anything down stream of that.
Are you sure it’s that fuse?

Apologies if I’m telling you something you know but, you do have to let the van go to sleep before doing any tests.
This means key out and any doors left open need to have the latches sprung closed to fool the van they’re closed. This goes for the bonnet too.
Leave it alone for 15 mins and it should be asleep.
If any modules are still awake they will fool you and give a high draw. As ever, YouTube is your friend.
Thanks Sidepod. I'm fairly sure the Vans asleep and agree with you - there are plenty if YouTube vids out there on the subject. I've locked all the doors and used a screwdiver to close the bonnet catch then waited. So far as the fuse is concerned I'm sure its this one. I did the test by individually pulling the fuses until the drain dropped to Zero and identified it as being fuse 12 then with all the fuses in and battery attached double checked by testing the fuses individually with the prongs from the multimeter. All the other fuses drop to Zero but fuse 12v registers 130 mA. So is it just the light switch runs off this fuse?
 

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