campandfly
.....
VIP Member
Oh dear, I only responded to a discussion about reduced torque on locking wheel bolts and am now being bombarded with tales of accidents and woe caused by incorrect tightening and lack of proper care mounting wheels.
Whilst very informative scaremongery isn't relevant here as tightening bolts, with a torque wrench, using manufacturers recommended settings isn't going to cause an accident.
The locking bolt setting is debatable hence the post. The C Max figures were given me by a Ford dealer so it is acceptable to reduce the torque on locking bolts. The cmaxowmers club forum thread also suggested anything from 85nm so not very helpful.
Of course if bolts/nuts are loose or sheared due to misuse then accidents are going to happen.
4 bolts at 180nm and 1 bolt at 150nm , as in 870nm total instead of 900nm is perfectly acceptable and last time I looked all my wheels are still there.
I am more concerned that being stuck by the roadside with a bolt which won't come off because of a damaged lock key is dangerous so as per my original post will plough my own furrow on this one.
Wheels coming off these days pretty rarely I'm guessing. Unlike the good old days when many Morris Minor drivers became acquainted with "Moggie-one-way-wheel-the-other" (sheared king pin, very common).
Oh dear, I only responded to a discussion about reduced torque on locking wheel bolts and am now being bombarded with tales of accidents and woe caused by incorrect tightening and lack of proper care mounting wheels.
Whilst very informative scaremongery isn't relevant here as tightening bolts, with a torque wrench, using manufacturers recommended settings isn't going to cause an accident.
The locking bolt setting is debatable hence the post. The C Max figures were given me by a Ford dealer so it is acceptable to reduce the torque on locking bolts. The cmaxowmers club forum thread also suggested anything from 85nm so not very helpful.
Of course if bolts/nuts are loose or sheared due to misuse then accidents are going to happen.
4 bolts at 180nm and 1 bolt at 150nm , as in 870nm total instead of 900nm is perfectly acceptable and last time I looked all my wheels are still there.
I am more concerned that being stuck by the roadside with a bolt which won't come off because of a damaged lock key is dangerous so as per my original post will plough my own furrow on this one.
Oh yes, been there with my Moggy! And again with Triumph Spitfire. At least the wheels were still attached and tended to be at low speeds.Wheels coming off these days pretty rarely I'm guessing. Unlike the good old days when many Morris Minor drivers became acquainted with "Moggie-one-way-wheel-the-other" (sheared king pin, very common).
No substitute for experience. I don't mean that in a bad way, only that people don't realise what is involved until it happens; best to take precautions!Absolutely agree.
As previously stated I removed the locking ones. An experience on the side of a motorway after a blowout with tow ball bike rack and bikes to contend with and two motorway police getting twitchy with where I was was not good.
Locking wheel nuts, sticking wheels and the superhuman effort required to get the spare out persuaded me to to eliminate what I can.
I now carry a bottle jack, breaking bar & spider. Wheels are on with copper grease and a carry the 12volt tyre inflator for simple slow punctures so I can get somewhere safe.
Mike
Oh yes, been there with my Moggy! And again with Triumph Spitfire. At least the wheels were still attached and tended to be at low speeds.
Absolutely agree.
As previously stated I removed the locking ones. An experience on the side of a motorway after a blowout with tow ball bike rack and bikes to contend with and two motorway police getting twitchy with where I was was not good.
Locking wheel nuts, sticking wheels and the superhuman effort required to get the spare out persuaded me to to eliminate what I can.
I now carry a bottle jack, breaking bar & spider. Wheels are on with copper grease and a carry the 12volt tyre inflator for simple slow punctures so I can get somewhere safe.
Mike
Backwards in a friend's Mini Cooper, being overtaken by the offside rear wheel. Came safely to a halt on three wheelsYes my Spitfire could only manage low speeds anyway... except when the brakes failed on a long downhill. Twice. (I also managed to victory roll it off a bend into a field, but you didn't need to go very fast to do that on the old Triumph "tuck-unders").
If you look at #7, after I got the cross threaded bolts removed and the drum re-threaded, I travelled through Greece and Bulgaria with four bolts in each rear wheel before finding suitable replacements in Romania. Although some serious thought is given to the design, it usually includes a considered allowance for the unforseen?I agree that if you are worried about removing them then replacing them is way to go. You don’t hear of wheels being stolen much these days.
This thread makes you wonder why VW designed the vehicle with 5 fasteners in the first place. It also makes you wonder why they bothered to specify a torque for them at all.
My Spitfire wheel came off when I was out on a "test flight" after a clutch change, unfortunately it was only a short distance from home, nowhere near far enough for my breakdown cover to legitimately help. Luckily the garage who came out weren't local so I had to give the driver directions to my house with the spitfire on a suspended tow. I had to direct him on a very long detour to make it look like it wasn't just around the corner.Yes my Spitfire could only manage low speeds anyway... except when the brakes failed on a long downhill. Twice. (I also managed to victory roll it off a bend into a field, but you didn't need to go very fast to do that on the old Triumph "tuck-unders").
Agreed, the serious thought given includes accounting for dormant failures. A de-torqued fastener is a dormant failure, which is being introduced deliberately if it’s intentional. If a dormant failure occurs in combination with another failure you get a problem.If you look at #7, after I got the cross threaded bolts removed and the drum re-threaded, I travelled through Greece and Bulgaria with four bolts in each rear wheel before finding suitable replacements in Romania. Although some serious thought is given to the design, it usually includes a considered allowance for the unforseen?
My Spitfire wheel came off when I was out on a "test flight" after a clutch change, unfortunately it was only a short distance from home, nowhere near far enough for my breakdown cover to legitimately help. Luckily the garage who came out weren't local so I had to give the driver directions to my house with the spitfire on a suspended tow. I had to direct him on a very long detour to make it look like it wasn't just around the corner.
They were great to work on, bonnet up sat on the front wheels you could spend hours polishing the SU carbs!As I recall, the clutch was a doddle to do on a Spit as the GB just came out from inside the car. But there were I think about a dozen bolts around the bell housing, which I considered ridiculous excess and I blush to say ended up with significantly fewer in use after a couple of times having the GB/engine out.
I did always stick to Triumph's specified number of wheel nuts though. Happy days.
And interesting effects if you varied the viscosity of the oil.Good old SU carbs. Check the oil in the pots!
And interesting effects if you varied the viscosity of the oil.
Yes, yesterday.Anyone checked their tyre pressures (including spare) lately? Thought not !
The VW California Club is the worlds largest resource for all owners and enthusiasts of VW California campervans.