3 way coolbox query / Hard wiring fridge to leisure battery

[hirsty]

Can't remember if the kettle type is generic, very likely though so any cheap printer cable etc can be used. When I got mine it came with a UK and an EU one so I had a spare.

It's annoying as it looks like it could be a generic fitting, so I'll have to wait for a dull day to Google Image it to exhaustion... The separate mains lead supplied with the Webasto *is* a generic kettle lead, albeit with a Euro two-pin plug, now swapped to fit my UK three-pin hookup socket.

The 12V cable also covers the fridge mains socket when plugged in, perhaps by design to prevent lazy sods like me leaving them both connected...

 

[Detritus]

In anticipation of buying a fridge I've wired a CTEK Comfort connector to my leisure battery. However I get an identical reading if 13.09 v from both the CTEK connector and the 12 v cigarette lighter socket? Is that to be expected? I was expecting to see a higher voltage out of the CTEK connection?

 

[Max-Felix]

It's not under load - that's when the resistance and voltage loss comes into play.

 

[Detritus]

Thanks Max

 

[soulstyledevon]

Check out an old thread of mine where I came across the issue, of the battery sitting to close to the seat cover.

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/adding-230v-connection.10455/

You can see how I used spacers to pack out the socket and used the space to terminate the cables and give enough space to bury them within the spacers. I think I used 3 spacers per S/O

You can buy them here, page 86

http://www.caktanks.co.uk/files/cak_catalogue_2012/2012_CAK_Electrical.pdf

 

[Esandar#1]

Hi all, I've been spending a ridiculous amount of time trying to sort out wiring my Webasto TB41 directly to the leisure battery so thought I'd share my experience..

I'm an electrics novice but thought I'd have a go at wiring direct to the leisure battery but with the inclusion of an Anderson powerpole connector. From a bit of reading online it seemed that's a very good choice for a 12v connection. So I went to a local auto electricians and spent £18 on all the bits including wire, inline fuse etc..

Then I spent hours making this:

View attachment 22199

I found it quite time consuming and I'm not confident it was a professional job.. So I had a bit of a re-think.

I already have a CTEK battery charger so connected this directly to the leisure battery under the passenger seat:
View attachment 22200 View attachment 22201

And then I found this online:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002X6DQV4/?tag=eliteelect-21

I really wanted to avoid a cigarette socket connection based on what others have said but then figured if Webasto supply it with a cigarette plug then it must at least work.. And hopefully the drop in voltage is due to the mass of wiring in the California rather than the cigarette socket alone.

This is how it looks connected up:
View attachment 22202

It has an inline 5amp fuse.

I've been testing it today. The Webasto gave the usual low voltage error after an hour or so through the california's cigarette socket next to the mains socket behind the passenger seat even though I fully charged the leisure battery. I then used the CTEK connection and it seems to be working very well several hours later. I'll keep an eye on it and report back in a couple of days.

If it works then it's certainly a lot simpler than making up a direct rig to the fridge.

James - thanks for sharing all this info. We have a Dometic fridge and have been experiencing the same issues which you appear to have addressed with a cunning workaround. I am a complete novice but will re-read (many times) this whole thread and, if I'm feeling really brave - MAY potenially attempt to rig up your suggested solution! Many thanks, Ian

 

[James B 2016]

James - thanks for sharing all this info. We have a Dometic fridge and have been experiencing the same issues which you appear to have addressed with a cunning workaround. I am a complete novice but will re-read (many times) this whole thread and, if I'm feeling really brave - MAY potenially attempt to rig up your suggested solution! Many thanks, Ian

No worries. We're coming to the end of a 8 week trip around Southern Europe and it's worked out really well. The beach battery has generally lasted 3 days with normal use in relatively high ambient temperatures. If we've driven anywhere then the battery obviously recharges. We did blow a fuse on the ctek cable one day. But it was about 40c in Sardinia and the California was parked in full sun. The fridge was working pretty hard! So I'd suggest buying some spare fuses just in case.

 

[Bigted]

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Did you have order a new fridge lead to be compatible with the ctek socket?

 

[Padders13]

Hi folks just to update from my fuse blowing experiences and to corroborate the excellent advice in this thread, I also shortened my power train from leisure battery to fridge with the ctek connectors and ctek cigarette socket as per James. So far works a treat, no more voltage drop issues, which did crop up exactly as Max Felix predicted. Any reoccurance and I will go the whole hog and wire direct from the Waeco to the ctek plug, but so far, so good. Really grateful that everyone shares their experience. Next project: solar charging. Probably for next season now.

 

[MattBW]

Did you have order a new fridge lead to be compatible with the ctek socket?

I just used a ctek 12v socket adapter I had intended to wire the fridge up with a new plug but I've had no voltage drop with the ctek socket same as Padders.


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[soulstyledevon]

I saw these today and wondered if they could be quite good for direct connections to the solar panel and fridge. No real advantage other than being quite cool.

8a should be enough right?

Ive just ordered the Pro version to install at the rear of the van. Just worked out i can't plug my fridge in because the multi-flex leg is in the way and i don't want to move the MF any further forward.
Im going to swop out the standard Volkswagen 12V connection to the Magcode and see how well it works.

Im convinced the Voltage drops issues are down to bad connections on the antiquated cigarette 12V connectors.

 

[soulstyledevon]

Hi guys.
Today, I changed the rear 12v S/O to the magcode type Matt had linked to earlier in the thread. I opted for the pro version as it not only magnetically holds but also a small mechanical twist. This should ensure a good connection.
New fridge in and set the battery disconnect setting at medium. Fridge temp 1 degrees.
I will see how if performs.

So far so good, nice bit of kit. Bit pricey.
I also picked up a Voltage display off Amazon which had two USB charging ports. Hopefully it will give me an idea of the state of the leisure battery.










Battery display.

Vehicle running.

 

[Stuart]

So can you now use the socket with the multiflex slid all the way back?

 

[soulstyledevon]

So can you now use the socket with the multiflex slid all the way back?

Yes.
I could not connect the fridge to the 12V S/O before this, as the multiflex leg was in the way. I can now connect the fridge using the magcode S/O, and yes, the fridge slides under the multiflex.
My fridge is positioned here, (see pic) even in the space further back it should be fine.

 

[ti-fat-man]

For Matt,
hiya I've wired a CTEK comfort indicator (female socket) to my beach leisure battery.
did you use a CTEK female cigarette connector (with male socket) to connect to the battery flying lead and then the cable from the fridge to the fag socket?
Cheers Alan

 

[MattBW]

Yes I just used a CTEK connected and then plugged in a CTEK 12v socket adapter with a male plug. Others have removed the fag socket and wired directly which apparently improves things even more.

 

[ti-fat-man]

Thanks Matt,
its the socket adapter with male plug that is con(fuse)ing my head.
is it the CTEK a 56-573?
al

 

[ti-fat-man]

only i'm expecting the fridge to come with the male fag connector

 

[MattBW]

Hard wiring will always be better but this is what I use at present.



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[ti-fat-man]

Cheers Matt, thats the one I was thinking it would be. Male CTEK connector.
I'm off to order one, cheers Al

 

[Amarillo]

We are having problems with our CFX28, specifically with power loss between the 12V lighter socket and plug. We are considering wiring to the leisure battery using Anderson connectors.

This lead would be connected directly to the leisure battery, with the Anderson connector loose by the left side of the passenger seat.

The lighter plug would be cut off the CFX28 lead and this Anderson connector fitted.

Am I mad or is it as simple a fix as it looks?

Our fridge is kept strapped behind the front passenger seat. We already have a system for external 12V electrics, and this could be adapted to allow the fridge to be located in our awning room.

 

[MattBW]

Morning,
Worth checking the connections on the battery, I was having problems with mine, I thought my leisure battery was on the way out. My fridge kept cutting out etc.

When I took the seat off recently many of the connectors had became loose, tightening them up transformed the leisure setup.

I just checked and actually I have a ctek adapter with a 12v socket on it (you can buy them), but because the cable is a lot shorter, the fridge works great with it especially since I made sure all my battery connectors were tight.

 

[James B 2016]

Hi Amarillo,

Not mad

We've had the Ctek connector attached directly to the leisure battery for over a year and it's worked perfectly. The Ctek connector attaches directly to the battery and then you can plug the fridge cigarette lighter to the other end. I know others have said that the cigarette lighter connection causes problems but that solution has worked perfectly for us. I figured if the fridge manufacturers were happy to supply them with a cigarette lighter plug then maybe the problem is the complicated California wiring rather than fridge lead.

We use this CTEK CTE-56263 CTEK Cigarette Lighter Connector Adaptor - Black/red and CTEK Indicator eyelet M8: practical LED indicator for immediate indication of battery charge levels

James

 

[Max-Felix]

Tom, absolutely hard wiring is the way to go - use the best wiring and connectors you can.

No need to chop the wire as the plug can be dismantled (for reassembly should you sell on) .

There is a lot of info to read back in this topic but although the current draw is not great voltage loss is still an issue. The Ctek connectors are popular but I dare to suggest they are not the best bet, a Ctek draws little current and something with a larger capacity may be better. I have found they are not the most positive connector too and quite a few issues reported with poor connection.

Having said that they are much better than using the built in thin wiring and cr@ppy cig socket with all the voltage loss it entails.

I put some links in way back about fridge wiring current capacity but I'll throw in some more here:

https://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?/topic/94973-cable-size-for-12-volt-fridge/

http://deepredmotorhome.com/electrics.php

The Anderson or any decent waterproof/marine connectors together with large section cabling would be great.

I got some of the below for another project and they would be a good bet (waterproof and locking):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterpro...var=572779855269&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[RoB5urf]

Oddly, I've had no issues with my fridge, possibly because its the smaller CDF-11 and its connected to the socket nearest the battery. I might still consider hard-wiring though, if only to free up the socket for something else.