3 way coolbox query / Hard wiring fridge to leisure battery

[kp64zl]

Hi @Amarillo

did your set up in post #96 work OK?

if so might you be willing to let me know the exact parts you ordered & where from so I can copy?

thanks

 

[kp64zl]

would this be OK? from Amazon. £11.99 all made up

<https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00O0BEOJS/?tag=eliteelect-21>

 

[Amarillo]

did your set up in post #96 work OK?

Yes, it all works perfectly.

would this be OK? from Amazon. £11.99 all made up

Yes, I got one of those.

if so might you be willing to let me know the exact parts you ordered & where from so I can copy?

I've just recently thrown out the invoice!

From email:

Anderson SB50 with in-line fuse "Fused Link" -1 -£9.07

Anderson connectors Colour: Grey Cable size: 16mm² SB50 -1 -£3.60

Anderson connectors Colour: Grey Cable size: 10mm² SB50 -1 -£3.60

Subtotal: £16.27

After successfully hardwiring the fridge for use behind the passenger seat, I ordered further cable and Anderson connectors from here:
https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/anderson-connectors-62-c.asp

I think I probably bought 10 metres of this:
https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/t...ure-8-configurationbr-alttwinflex6-4121-p.asp

And six more anderson connectors.

So what I have it this:
A hardwired lead with Anderson connector, connected to a two way Anderson connector (this was tricky to make as I was stuffing two 6mm^2 cables into 16mm^2 contacts). Into this can be plugged the fridge and/or and Anderson extension lead to the passenger side boot tool box compartment. Into this can be plugged the fridge or an Anderson extension lead to the inside of the awning casing. Into this can be plugged a two way adaptor for the fridge and lighting, or directly into the fridge, or directly into the awning lights. A 5 metre Anderson extension lead.

And this is what I can do:
Fridge behind front passenger seat, or;
Fridge in boot - portrait with the long multiflex - landscape with the short multiflex
Fridge external near the rear wheel, or;
Fridge external on the extension lead in the driveaway awning, or;
Any of the above plus external lights

Not all configurations have been tested.

Looking at my credit card statement, the second bill was for £151.78, but that included a professional quality crimping tool ~£35.

 

[kp64zl]

Thanks that's really helpful

 

[kp64zl]

Just checking out the Dometic lead and noticed that the cigarette lighter end is actually a 12v plug/socket combo.

Is this a standard fitment ? I couldn’t find on google etc. If so could be a neat alternative to Anderson connectors.




Note there is a 10amp fuse in the bit that goes into cigarette socket

The cable is about 2m long and is rated at 16AWG , 1.31mm^2

 

[Amarillo]

Just checking out the Dometic lead and noticed that the cigarette lighter end is actually a 12v plug/socket combo.

Is this a standard fitment ? I couldn’t find on google etc. If so could be a neat alternative to Anderson connectors.




Note there is a 10amp fuse in the bit that goes into cigarette socket

The cable is about 2m long and is rated at 16AWG , 1.31mm^2

View attachment 41947

View attachment 41948

The lighter socket is prone to falling out, I cut it off and fitted the Anderson connector. Much more reliable. The fridge still needs protecting with a 10A fuse.

 

[kp64zl]

Hi @Amarillo --- might it be at all possible for a photograph please?
Of the left side of your passenger seat where the wire comes out.
Thanks

 

[Amarillo]

Hi @Amarillo --- might it be at all possible for a photograph please?
Of the left side of your passenger seat where the wire comes out.
Thanks

There are three wires, the single black wire is from the solar charger to the leisure battery, the double red and black is the Anderson extension lead.

I can’t believe the amount of grime down there. I should have stuck the vacuum cleaner in before photographing!!!

 

[kp64zl]

Hi @Amarillo

Thanks ever so much for that, that's really appreciated-- & is it straightforward to push the red & black lead under the metal seat box thing? Looks like you've not had to drill anything. I'm getting a solar panel fitted, so was thinking of doing this all at the same time.

Also, is the fuse outside or inside the seat box?

 

[Amarillo]

Hi @Amarillo

Thanks ever so much for that, that's really appreciated-- & is it straightforward to push the red & black lead under the metal seat box thing? Looks like you've not had to drill anything. I'm getting a solar panel fitted, so was thinking of doing this all at the same time.

Also, is the fuse outside or inside the seat box?

There is a plastic hatch behind the passenger seat. Pull that off and you can access the rubber battery cover. The battery ring to Anderson, including fuse, all fit under the rubber cover. The Anderson to Anderson extension lead goes under the plastic hatch. I don’t recall it going under any metal box. Refitting the plastic hatch correctly can be a bit tricky with the extension lead pushing up on it. Removing the rubber battery cover is also difficult without unbolting the seat, but thankfully (and surprisingly) putting it back on is easier than removing it.

 

[kp64zl]

I understand now -- thanks -- was your cable long enough to have the Anderson connector on the outside? Did you choose to have the connector behind the plastic hatch for a particular reason or wasn't it long enough?

I'm thinking that having the Anderson on the outside as that would be more flexible as I could connect directly via Dometic lead when fridge inside (behind front seat most likely) but attach a longer extension cable when fridge outside in a tent)

thanks and sorry for all the questions

 

[Amarillo]

I understand now -- thanks -- was your cable long enough to have the Anderson connector on the outside? Did you choose to have the connector behind the plastic hatch for a particular reason or wasn't it long enough?

I'm thinking that having the Anderson on the outside as that would be more flexible as I could connect directly via Dometic lead when fridge inside (behind front seat most likely) but attach a longer extension cable when fridge outside in a tent)

thanks and sorry for all the questions

The ready made battery ring to Anderson lead is not long enough, but attached to the battery ring to Anderson is an Anderson to double Anderson adaptor.



This gives added length, and will allow me to have the fridge behind the passenger seat and power lights in the awning. The capped anderson is for the fridge, and protects the fridge with a 10 amp fuse (the main fuse on the battery ring to Anderson is the supplied 50 Amp which really is a bit silly. 20 Amp would be plenty.) The lead which really should be fused is the Anderson to fridge plug lead, but I couldn't think of an easy way to fit a fuse to that.

I have all connectors hidden behind the plastic hatch. The main reason is to remove temptation to fiddle from little boys. I also think it looks neater, but there is an added faff factor.

 

[kp64zl]

That looks really professional, thanks. Similar child proofing needs here, although I think mine are older than the ones in your pictures! (10yrs and 7 1/2yrs)

I could, of course make up a longer battery ring to Anderson connector cable -- have you an idea of what length cable would be better ? & I'll get it made up
(the one in your photo is 300mm long, the amazon one 500mm long)

Thanks ever so much for all your advice with this!

 

[Amarillo]

That looks really professional, thanks. Similar child proofing needs here, although I think mine are older than the ones in your pictures! (10yrs and 7 1/2yrs)

I could, of course make up a longer battery ring to Anderson connector cable -- have you an idea of what length cable would be better ? & I'll get it made up
(the one in your photo is 300mm long, the amazon one 500mm long)

Thanks ever so much for all your advice with this!

I would have thought that 500mm would be plenty to poke out from under the plastic hatch. You could check with a bit of string.

 

[Amarillo]

View attachment 41987

And how nerdy is this?.. I have a before photograph.

 

[Amarillo]

Photos with the hatch on and off

The battery ring to Anderson is completely concealed under the battery cover.

 

[kp64zl]

thanks for that picture. All the bits arrived yesterday so having fun trying to work out how to make these cables (main challenge is that it's impossible with the children running around, and that my crimp tool doesn't work - so ordered same as you)

will let you know how I get on!

 

[Perfectos]

Amarillo, Max- felix and JamesB you deserve a medal very informative posts, and very unselfish, thanks to all who contributed so far

 

[kp64zl]

Hi @Amarillo

I've hardwired the fridge now following your really helpful advice. This was done at the same time as solar panel installation.

1) the 50cm lead (10amp fused) with Anderson connector was only just long enough - so at some point I may extend it like you have done
2) I made a 5 metre extension cable from 6mm^2 automotive cable with Anderson connectors either end. Fridge still works, although haven't extensively field tested it yet

Photos below & thanks again!

 

[stim]

I think this is the master thread for hard wiring a fridge in a California so I am resurrecting with some questions.

1. Why is there a need to have a big 40A fuse in the wire when you could have a 10A which would help protect the fridge as well? I read somewhere that someone had put a big fuse and a little fuse, seemed pointless but I am not an electronics expert.
2. Does anyone know the terminal stud size on a T6.1 Beach under-seat leisure battery? My Van is not to hand and need to order the right terminals. I assume it is 8mm because that is what has been mentioned on these threads.
3. Does anyone know the cable size of the Dometic cable for the CFX3 25 fridge? Does it crimp/solder into the 6mm Anderson studs ok?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Amarillo]

I think this is the master thread for hard wiring a fridge in a California so I am resurrecting with some questions.

1. Why is there a need to have a big 40A fuse in the wire when you could have a 10A which would help protect the fridge as well? I read somewhere that someone had put a big fuse and a little fuse, seemed pointless but I am not an electronics expert.
2. Does anyone know the terminal stud size on a T6.1 Beach under-seat leisure battery? My Van is not to hand and need to order the right terminals. I assume it is 8mm because that is what has been mentioned on these threads.
3. Does anyone know the cable size of the Dometic cable for the CFX3 25 fridge? Does it crimp/solder into the 6mm Anderson studs ok?

Thanks in advance!

The big fuse is to protect the battery, the smaller fuses for each appliance.

But you are right, there is probably not a need for the great big fuse at the battery end of the wiring a small fuse could do. Just work out what the maximum current you might draw out of the battery.

But just think what the battery might do to your California if rodents chewed through an unfused cable.

Big fuse close to the battery, appropriate fuse close to each appliance.

 

[WelshGas]

The big fuse is to protect the battery, the smaller fuses for each appliance.

But you are right, there is probably not a need for the great big fuse at the battery end of the wiring a small fuse could do. Just work out what the maximum current you might draw out of the battery.

But just think what the battery might do to your California if rodents chewed through an unfused cable.

Big fuse close to the battery, appropriate fuse close to each appliance.

The big 40 amp fuse is probably supplied to cover ALL eventualities upto the maximum of the Anderson connectors and wiring supplied. After all the manufacturer has no idea what the purchaser is going to use it for. If you are only going to use it for the fridge then a lower rated fuse could be substituted. If used to power multiple items then fuse each individual appliance lead appropriately upto a maximum total of 40 amps, or whatever the large fuse supplied is rated.

 

[stim]

Thanks for the replies. I only intend to connect the fridge so I don't think I need anything other than 1 inline 10A fuse on the end connected to the battery (in this case, if the fridge is not connected and somehow the plug gets shorted, the fuse will protect the battery).

Any feedback on the battery terminal stud size? @Amarillo I think you bought this one, it has 8mm terminal connectors. I assume it is the right size? https://www.photonicuniverse.com/en...erminals-for-folding-solar-charging-kits.html

Thanks.

 

[stim]

So I finallly managed to get all the bits and bobs and hardwire my fridge. For reference I have a T6.1 Beach. I bought the following all from https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk :

1 x standard blade fuse holder with 100mm of 4mm2 wire coming out of each end.
Some 4mm squared cable to build the negative side and extend the fuse cable.
6mm ring terminals (this is the size needed for the beach).
Twin automotive cable 4.5mm2
5 x Anderson SB50 connectors.
Some boots for the connectors.
1 pair of 10mm2 pins for the Anderson connector.
4 pairs of 6mm2 pins for the Anderson connectors.

I have two fridge locations, one behind the drivers seat (I have a LH drive) and one next to my 2 seat bench. I wanted to have an Anderson connector at each location.

I have the fuse between the battery positive (there was a free threaded stud on the positive terminal, see picture) and the first Anderson, and currently the negative wire going to the negative on the battery. I then wired up two extensions (one short for behind the seat and one long to mid ships) into 1 Anderson that plugs into the one connected to the battery. I cut the Dometic cable quite close to the fridge plug and crimped on an Anderson.

Some things of note:

• I could not find a smaller Anderson pin than for 6mm2 cable. It seems to crimp securely to 4mm2 and even the 1.5-2mm2 cable from the dometic fridge. I just stripped off a longer but of outer cable and twisted into around to make a bigger bundle to fill up the crimp volume.
• The 10mm2 Anderson pin seems perfect for the 2 x 4.5mm2 cable that goes into it.
• The Anderson pins are not that easy to crimp. I borrowed a friends cheap ratchet crimping tool (with large jaws) and it seemed quite on the limit but did work.
• I tried to connect to the battery at both threads of the main clamps. It was impossible to attached the positive due to access and a damaged thread. I have to remove the seat to gain full access to the positive terminal "cluster". This was easy, 4 x 13mm bolts/nuts removed with a socket. Everything from below is captive so no need to worry about losing nuts. I carefully liften the seat up and rested it on the steering wheel. No need to disconnect the seat heater/airbag plug.

So far it seems to have solved the problems I had, great. However, I have one question to do with the location of the negative connection. I have read that with the T6.1s, when you wire up solar, you must connect the negative to the ground (usually the bolt the holds the small battery clamp) rather than directly to the battery. If you connect to the battery it can confused the control panel? My setup is currently working connected directly to the battery but when the fridge compressor is running, it no longer shows amp draw on the control panel. Do I need to change the negative location to the earth? Am I risking some sort of battery error on the control panel?

Thanks to all those who have contributed to this topic.

 

[WelshGas]

So I finallly managed to get all the bits and bobs and hardwire my fridge. For reference I have a T6.1 Beach. I bought the following all from https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk :

1 x standard blade fuse holder with 100mm of 4mm2 wire coming out of each end.
Some 4mm squared cable to build the negative side and extend the fuse cable.
6mm ring terminals (this is the size needed for the beach).
Twin automotive cable 4.5mm2
5 x Anderson SB50 connectors.
Some boots for the connectors.
1 pair of 10mm2 pins for the Anderson connector.
4 pairs of 6mm2 pins for the Anderson connectors.

I have two fridge locations, one behind the drivers seat (I have a LH drive) and one next to my 2 seat bench. I wanted to have an Anderson connector at each location.

I have the fuse between the battery positive (there was a free threaded stud on the positive terminal, see picture) and the first Anderson, and currently the negative wire going to the negative on the battery. I then wired up two extensions (one short for behind the seat and one long to mid ships) into 1 Anderson that plugs into the one connected to the battery. I cut the Dometic cable quite close to the fridge plug and crimped on an Anderson.

Some things of note:

• I could not find a smaller Anderson pin than for 6mm2 cable. It seems to crimp securely to 4mm2 and even the 1.5-2mm2 cable from the dometic fridge. I just stripped off a longer but of outer cable and twisted into around to make a bigger bundle to fill up the crimp volume.
• The 10mm2 Anderson pin seems perfect for the 2 x 4.5mm2 cable that goes into it.
• The Anderson pins are not that easy to crimp. I borrowed a friends cheap ratchet crimping tool (with large jaws) and it seemed quite on the limit but did work.
• I tried to connect to the battery at both threads of the main clamps. It was impossible to attached the positive due to access and a damaged thread. I have to remove the seat to gain full access to the positive terminal "cluster". This was easy, 4 x 13mm bolts/nuts removed with a socket. Everything from below is captive so no need to worry about losing nuts. I carefully liften the seat up and rested it on the steering wheel. No need to disconnect the seat heater/airbag plug.

So far it seems to have solved the problems I had, great. However, I have one question to do with the location of the negative connection. I have read that with the T6.1s, when you wire up solar, you must connect the negative to the ground (usually the bolt the holds the small battery clamp) rather than directly to the battery. If you connect to the battery it can confused the control panel? My setup is currently working connected directly to the battery but when the fridge compressor is running, it no longer shows amp draw on the control panel. Do I need to change the negative location to the earth? Am I risking some sort of battery error on the control panel?

Thanks to all those who have contributed to this topic.

View attachment 115885

View attachment 115886

View attachment 115887

View attachment 115888

View attachment 115889

In answer to your question Yes. The -tve lead should be moved to a Chassis ground/earth point.
On the T6.1 each battery has an individual battery monitor module. Wired, as you have, you have bypassed the battery monitor module so the Control Panel has no idea of the power consumption by the fridge.