Adding the 3M tape to roof edges

[Scaliwag]

Yes it does

Hi there, is there any chance you can get this 12 year statement to me pls - declanmfoley@+++++.com

 

[Scaliwag]

That’s gold dust, can you upload it into the upload section of this site??
I’d like to have a copy to my email please. My biggest worry with my T6 I’d the dreaded roof corrosion problem.

Hi there, is there any chance you can get these emails to me pls - declanmfoley@+++++.com

 

[Jabberwocky]

I have emails from VW that the Roof is covered under the 10 year corrosion warranty if anyone what’s a copy for a claim that VW try to dismiss

Could you send me a copy of what is relevant? I looked in the download section but couldn't find it.
Thanks.

 

[calikev]

Well, yesterday was warm and sunny, the tape had finally arrived from Viking and I had a free morning to have a go at fitting the tape. Naively I had thought I would have caught the problem in time but sadly not. Mine is a March 2016 by the way.

View attachment 34035
This was the front nearside corner, looks bad but after cleaning and using Tcut the extent of the rust contamination was more clear.

View attachment 34036

Also on the inside,

View attachment 34037

But you can also see bubbling along the front edge. Unfortunately that wasn't the only place corrosion had occurred with each edge having some bubbling.

View attachment 34038
This is the offside, small patch but destined for bigger things I suspect.
View attachment 34039
Dead centre of the back edge.

There doesn't seem to be any logical reason why the corrosion has occurred where it has. If it was caused by the steel wire in the seal why then has it not bubbled up dramatically where the paint has become completely impregnated with rust at the front corner?

Anyway I couldn't face having the van shoddily repaired with a fix that would be temporary at best so I fitted the tape in the hope it will slow down the problem and in the belief that I could remove it should I need to make a claim. I had bought 3 rolls and it took two plus 450mm from the third to do the sides and back edges without stretching the tape.

I hadn't intended to do the front edge as access is awkward but having found corrosion at the corner I took the gamble and removed the remaining rubber seal. This is when I discovered the paint was literally bubbling up with seemingly no corrosion underneath.

View attachment 34040

A neat series of bubbles!

Worst still I discovered that the top coat of paint will literally peel off quite easily and so now I suspect that it will be impossible to remove the tape without seriously damaging the paint. So in for a penny etc I applied tape to the front edge. Then used a judicious amount of silicon and profanity to get the seal back, I'd overlapped the front corners which made it very tight but the front edge was difficult to fit along its entire length for some reason. The rest went on comparatively easily, but you do need to use plenty of silicon.

So now I'm not sure if I've done the right thing. Only time will tell if the problem gets a lot worse and I've voided the warranty, but with a bit of luck this will hold the tide of corrosion back and I can enjoy the vehicle until I trade it in for an entirely plastic electric T12.

It’s not rust aluminium doesn’t rust what you can see is rust from the steel inside the seal

 

[ArunAlec]

Could you send me a copy of what is relevant? I looked in the download section but couldn't find it.
Thanks.

I'd check the precise wording of any eMail from VW. From my understanding the 10/12 year only relates to holes in panels etc not surface corrosion, see below. References to THROUGH CORROSION and PERFORATION being the catch!

Body protection warranty
All current Volkswagen vehicles are fully protected during manufacture against through corrosion for 12 years from the date of first registration.

The only preconditions are:

• The defect must be reported to a member of the Volkswagen Authorised Repairer network as soon as it is discovered and within the warranty period.
• The perforation must not have been caused originally by damage, neglect, insufficient care or maintenance or by external corrosion (rusting).
• A member of the Volkswagen Authorised Repairer network must be advised about any rusting as soon as it is found.
• All body repairs will be carried out promptly in accordance with the manufacturer's specification and procedures, using only approved parts and materials, so the original level of anti-corrosion protection is maintained.

 

[Jabberwocky]

I'd check the precise wording of any eMail from VW. From my understanding the 10/12 year only relates to holes in panels etc not surface corrosion, see below. References to THROUGH CORROSION and PERFORATION being the catch!

Body protection warranty
All current Volkswagen vehicles are fully protected during manufacture against through corrosion for 12 years from the date of first registration.

The only preconditions are:

• The defect must be reported to a member of the Volkswagen Authorised Repairer network as soon as it is discovered and within the warranty period.
• The perforation must not have been caused originally by damage, neglect, insufficient care or maintenance or by external corrosion (rusting).
• A member of the Volkswagen Authorised Repairer network must be advised about any rusting as soon as it is found.
• All body repairs will be carried out promptly in accordance with the manufacturer's specification and procedures, using only approved parts and materials, so the original level of anti-corrosion protection is maintained.

Indeed I am rather wary of general claims. Equally I am wary of even factory extended warranties as there are differing versions that apply. You need to certain that the version you look at is the one that is current at the time of vehicle purchase.

 

[Max-Felix]

Chapeau to Loz for this - it's exactly what I'd do on a brand new Cali 100%. Maybe even two layers.

I think this thread proves that the underlying *first* issue VW need to sort is two fold (second issue being the seal) - preparation of the aluminium roof *before* paint (as anyone who has done anything like this knows prep of bare alu pre paint is very difficult and needs care due to the way it oxidises so easily once cleaned/prepped) and secondly a much better paint formula/process.

Yet again in the 21st century when numerous cars both high and low end utilise all alu or some alu panels and have zero issues in this regard it is pathetic how VW (who themselves use alu panels in some cars I'm sure) don't amend the production process once and for all after so many years.

Just imagine if Golf owners found their roof rotting after 6-12 months - VW would sort it out damn quick.

Issue seems to be I'm sure the fact the Cali production/conversion is separate to the main VW production and a 'sub contracted' arrangement.

 

[ArunAlec]

Chapeau to Loz for this - it's exactly what I'd do on a brand new Cali 100%. Maybe even two layers!

I think this thread proves that the underlying *first* issue VW need to sort is two fold (second issue being the seal) - preparation of the aluminium roof *before* paint (as anyone who has done anything like this knows prep of bare alu pre paint is very difficult and needs care due to the way it oxidises so easily once cleaned/prepped) and secondly a much better paint formula/process.

Yet again in the 21st century when numerous cars both high and low end utilise all alu or some alu panels and have zero issues in this regard it is pathetic how VW (who themselves use alu panels in some cars I'm sure) don't amend the production process once and for all after so many years.

Just imagine if Golf owners found their roof rotting after 6-12 months - VW would sort it out damn quick.

Issue seems to be I'm sure the fact the Cali production/conversion is separate to the main VW production and a 'sub contracted' arrangement.

I had a quick trawl and there sounds to be rumblings coming from the Tesla community regarding ally panels and corrosion.
It is hard to believe that VW didn't see this coming! Surely they had someone in the design office who'd come across this form of corrosion... (anyone whose had a bike with an ally seat post and a steel frame!)

 

[Legin]

Well, yesterday was warm and sunny, the tape had finally arrived from Viking and I had a free morning to have a go at fitting the tape. Naively I had thought I would have caught the problem in time but sadly not. Mine is a March 2016 by the way.

View attachment 34035
This was the front nearside corner, looks bad but after cleaning and using Tcut the extent of the rust contamination was more clear.

View attachment 34036

Also on the inside,

View attachment 34037

But you can also see bubbling along the front edge. Unfortunately that wasn't the only place corrosion had occurred with each edge having some bubbling.

View attachment 34038
This is the offside, small patch but destined for bigger things I suspect.
View attachment 34039
Dead centre of the back edge.

There doesn't seem to be any logical reason why the corrosion has occurred where it has. If it was caused by the steel wire in the seal why then has it not bubbled up dramatically where the paint has become completely impregnated with rust at the front corner?

Anyway I couldn't face having the van shoddily repaired with a fix that would be temporary at best so I fitted the tape in the hope it will slow down the problem and in the belief that I could remove it should I need to make a claim. I had bought 3 rolls and it took two plus 450mm from the third to do the sides and back edges without stretching the tape.

I hadn't intended to do the front edge as access is awkward but having found corrosion at the corner I took the gamble and removed the remaining rubber seal. This is when I discovered the paint was literally bubbling up with seemingly no corrosion underneath.

View attachment 34040

A neat series of bubbles!

Worst still I discovered that the top coat of paint will literally peel off quite easily and so now I suspect that it will be impossible to remove the tape without seriously damaging the paint. So in for a penny etc I applied tape to the front edge. Then used a judicious amount of silicon and profanity to get the seal back, I'd overlapped the front corners which made it very tight but the front edge was difficult to fit along its entire length for some reason. The rest went on comparatively easily, but you do need to use plenty of silicon.

So now I'm not sure if I've done the right thing. Only time will tell if the problem gets a lot worse and I've voided the warranty, but with a bit of luck this will hold the tide of corrosion back and I can enjoy the vehicle until I trade it in for an entirely plastic electric T12.

These bubbles are the osmosis process I referred to in another thread. Basically due to paint being semi permeable and continuously immersed in rain water.

The Loz tape install is a good one. However I would personally first sand /grind away any damage that is behind the seal (ie hidden) , and coat with Duralac isolator. Also I would fill the seal with some sealant like PU used on caravans and motorhomes or ACF50 for something easier and reversible. Duralac is well known by Lotus owners to isolate steel from aluminium but it is bright yellow and applied with a brush.

 

[Max-Felix]

Presuming though the minor bubbles are not too big an issue *as long as* no steel is allowed to come into play.

Take that away and even if the alu is exposed then it should just oxidise over preventing further issues. It only 'corrodes' and starts to powder if galvanic corrosion can take place and for that you need the steel in the seal.

Isolate that steel and the worst that can happen is minor paint bubbling and peel but at least not actual destruction of the alu?

Is that correct?

Powder coating the roofs rather than wet paint might be an idea.

 

[ArunAlec]

Presuming though the minor bubbles are not too big an issue *as long as* no steel is allowed to come into play.

Take that away and even if the alu is exposed then it should just oxidise over preventing further issues. It only 'corrodes' and starts to powder if galvanic corrosion can take place and for that you need the steel in the seal.

Isolate that steel and the worst that can happen is minor paint bubbling and peel but at least not actual destruction of the alu?

Is that correct?

Powder coating the roofs rather than wet paint might be an idea.

I agree with your point re the ally oxidising. I had an old Grumman aluminium canoe and the thinking in the canoe world was that you should leave alone, resist the temptation to polish it. Once the surface has an oxidised outer film it forms a protective layer, stopping further oxidisation.

 

[SimonB]

Indeed I am rather wary of general claims. Equally I am wary of even factory extended warranties as there are differing versions that apply. You need to certain that the version you look at is the one that is current at the time of vehicle purchase.

I've had a few trying to wriggle out of warranty claims over the years. One was an engine oil additive you had to put into the engine every 3 months and post a card back. The diff. failed and even though engine oil is not going to affect the diff. they claimed that they couldn't honour the warranty because I hadn't sent the cards back. When I produced the Proof of Posting certificates, they suddenly found the cards! Amazing coincidence.

 

[Legin]

Presuming though the minor bubbles are not too big an issue *as long as* no steel is allowed to come into play.

Take that away and even if the alu is exposed then it should just oxidise over preventing further issues. It only 'corrodes' and starts to powder if galvanic corrosion can take place and for that you need the steel in the seal.

Isolate that steel and the worst that can happen is minor paint bubbling and peel but at least not actual destruction of the alu?

Is that correct?

Powder coating the roofs rather than wet paint might be an idea.

I think your your right that its potential is no worse than the galvanic corrosion as once it bursts the surface should oxidise.

 

[Loz]

Seeing as the latest VW fix is to add tape and a sealant, which would mean the seal becoming permanently attached, and therefore not easy to check in the far future until it might be too late to get VW to address...
I think I might add this as an alternative to regular sealant. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WKONEGEL.html

Wiska One gel is sold in 300ml cartridges, and is immediately ready to use!
Simply dispensed in a standard cartridge gun, there is no need to mix two components, as the gel is already cross-bonded.

The gel is silicone based, can be used to fill and insulate any space to avoid the ingress of water, dust, moisture and gas. One Gel is re-enterable. With no shelf life, no mixing time, and simple application.

It is used to waterproof external electrical joints and boxes to fully waterproof etc. That way it can be removed at a later date and checked.

 

[Legin]

What does re enterable actually mean. Im assuming doesnt go solid so you can re enter the joint or does it mean you can top up the void ?

 

[Max-Felix]

I would not use *any* sealant - as has been discussed you can in no way stop moisture fully getting in the seal and sealant will just make any further treatment or inspection more complicated.

Just go with Loz's tape or equivalent quality PPF but I'd go two layers or something really thick but still pliable (use a low power heat gun to mold like the pro wrappers).

Maybe look at slightly 'opening' up the seal part that grips the roof so it is not so tight (but still tight enough) to lessen the tendency to abrade the thin paint on the roof edge.

 

[Legin]

I see it differently , it depends on the sealant and how its applied and not instead of the tape. My cali will already have the tape so something that displaces the water as well is a good thing. Im not saying something permanent that bonds it shut.

 

[Loz]

Yes that's what I'm saying, the VW Method is to use a permanent sealant in the rubber seal on top of the tape; so I am doing the same thing, instead using a sealant that does not prevent me from removing the seal at a later date.

 

[Punchy England]

Nice job Loz. Pity about the bubble but on the bright side justifies doing it.

I presume you used this one I found in an earlier post

https://www.vikingtapes.co.uk/colle...ape-short-rolls-25mm-x-3m?variant=34688318791

4 rolls ?

Mike

Hello can you please help with the name of the tape because the link comes back as a 404 error so I can't see it on the site.
Thanks
Barry

 

[Punchy England]

Could you send me a copy of what is relevant? I looked in the download section but couldn't find it.
Thanks.

Hello
Can I ask whether you uploaded the 12 year warranty emails because I can't find them. Thanks in anticipation.

 

[Perfectos]

For reference

Avoiding roof corrosion?

The roof is aluminium the top part og the van it bolts to is aluminium so no point the corrosion is caused by the steel strip in the rubber seal rusting and reacting with the aluminium roof Only way is to remove roof seal altogether.

vwcaliforniaclub.com

 

[B J G]

If anyone wishes to 'seal' the edging to prevent water/moisture or dirt ingress into the area then this Sikaflex should be suitable as it is non setting & Black.

Sikaflex ELASTOMER 710 Black Caravan/Motorhome | eBay

Only available in black. Due to its very sticky non-setting flexibility it is ideal for re-sealing of edge trims that have been sealed with ordinary non-setting mastics which dry out.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Perfectos]

If anyone wishes to 'seal' the edging to prevent water/moisture or dirt ingress into the area then this Sikaflex should be suitable as it is non setting & Black.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203047507601?hash=item2f46931691:g:pDUAAOSwGA5fDJu~

Hi BJG
this method was chosen by Vw as one or the earlier “Fixes“ But it is not now recommend by VW due to their failed attempts with this method in the past to prevent the issue occurring.
the sealant will prevent future inspection, , similarly it will leave a residue of sealant on the panel, which will be hard to remove & give VW a get out of jail free card

 

[B J G]

Hi BJG
this method was chosen by Vw as one or the earlier “Fixes“ But it is not now recommend by VW due to their failed attempts with this method in the past to prevent the issue occurring.
the sealant will prevent future inspection, , similarly it will leave a residue of sealant on the panel, which will be hard to remove & give VW a get out of jail free card

This was a belt & braces suggestion ie tape plus sealant.

sealant is non setting for any future removal, residue could be easily cleaned off with a suitable solution.