Changing the rear Disks(rotors) and pads

[Loz]

A how-to guide for changing the rear disks and pads. (I originally posted this on the T6F in 2019)
As with any information of this kind please only undertake this job if you have the tools and feel you are capable of doing the job otherwise seek professional advice or take it to a dealer.

Security Choc another wheel, ten Jack-up and remove the wheel you are starting with.


Release the handbrake and then using 2 screwdrivers, lever down the handbrake arm and flip out the end of the handbrake cable.


Remove the calliper screws and discard (New bolts supplied with pads)


Lever off the calliper and rest it on the driveshaft/shock, do not let it dangle on the brake pipe.


Disconnect the wear sensor cable connector. (there is only 1 on the inside pad on the offside wheel) Push the plug up, Pinch as indicated and pull down.


Now remove the old pads and retaining clips and discard. As you can see the rusty disks have destroyed the pads and worn down the sensor.


Using a 21mm socket and a long bar remove the 2 large bolts securing the carrier to the hub.



Using a 10mm spline(double square) bit remove the disk retaining screw.


The old disk can now be removed. It may take some beating with a Brummy screwdriver, use penetrating oil around the hub to help it come free.

We are now ready to fit the new parts.

 

[Loz]

Clean up what you can, if you have time you could also clean and paint the carrier.

Fit the new disk and screw in the retaining screw.


Refit the carrier and torque up the bolts to 165Nm. On the offside, you can use your foot on the wrench. This part of the job would be easier on a ramp but it's possible with some effort.


Next job is to remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir and put a rag wrapped around it to catch any spills. As I have never topped up the fluid, any fluid pushed back up from the next step is unlikely to cause this to overflow.


The next job is to "wind" the calliper piston back into the casting. Note I said wind, as the handbrake has a self-tensioning ratchet mechanism behind the piston and it has to be wound back in as it is pushed. Using the correct piston retractor pictured, it has 2 locating pins that locate on the end of the piston. Spray some brake cleaner around the seal so that the piston can turn without damaging the dust seal. (keep an eye on this as you wind it back in and free up the seal as you go if necessary).


Winding in the black threaded part pushes and turns the piston at the same time.

Now grab a new pad and fit a new wear sensor to the pad.


Fit the new support clips and slide in the new pads. The one with the wear sensor goes on the inside with sensor wire at the bottom.


If you have wound the piston in far enough, slide the calliper back over the pads.


Screw the calliper back onto the carrier with the new bolts supplied to 35Nm, add some thread lock and tighten up.


Reattach the handbrake cable. Job Done.
Remember to put the cap back onto the reservoir once both sides are complete.

 

[Loz]

Parts came from ECP the last time they had their 35% discount code, kept them in stock as I knew I would be changing them soon.

 

[Alan Andrews]

Page 3

Hi Loz, unfortunately there is no content here beyond Page1-3 text.

Is there something else you need to do in order to have the attachment display?

 

[kurienp]

Hi Loz, unfortunately there is no content here beyond Page1-3 text.

Is there something else you need to do in order to have the attachment display?

Those are holding pages for him to add information later. Helps to have information in order.

 

[Vagophile]

Nice one Loz. I would suggest that if you are able to plan this and have time, applying penetrating oil or diesel some days in advance to all bolts to be undone can assist in ease of removal.

 

[Loz]

Hi Loz, unfortunately there is no content here beyond Page1-3 text.

Is there something else you need to do in order to have the attachment display?

You're too quick Alan

 

[Vagophile]

I like the mud coloured decals. How do you apply those?

 

[Loz]

I like the mud coloured decals. How do you apply those?

They are provided free of charge by the local farmers in Berkeley.

 

[California Dreamin]

Thanks Loz. Really helpful.

 

[Jabberwocky]

As ever great information. Thanks Loz. As a matter of interest how many miles did you get out of your rear pads/discs? Did you need to replace front as well or were they replaced earlier (at what mileage?)

 

[Loz]

As ever great information. Thanks Loz. As a matter of interest how many miles did you get out of your rear pads/discs? Did you need to replace front as well or were they replaced earlier (at what mileage?)

This was done last year at 16K miles and mainly due to the factory rear disks seem to have rusted very quickly and that caused the pads to wear quicker. Fronts are still fine at 20K

 

[RSMarco]

@Loz
Great tutorial for future reference.

Question: You have a wheel cap on the hub. Is this there to keep the nut clean and does it clear the wheel?

Much appreciated.

 

[Loz]

@Loz
Question: You have a wheel cap on the hub. Is this there to keep the nut clean and does it clear the wheel?

Yeas it clears the steel wheels where the ugly hub nut is exposed.

 

[andyinluton]

Good write up but a couple of omissions:
Spend half a day looking for locking wheel nut key
Spend another hour trying to get wheel off the hub.
Stopping half way through to put wheel back on to move van because the Mrs has changed her mind & does want to go out in her car.
Half an hour wondering where the second brake wear sensor goes - my pads came with two but only one was fitted.

 

[ainsy]

How-to guide for changing the rear disks and pads.
As with any information of this kind please only undertake this job if you have the tools and feel you are capable of doing the job otherwise seek professional advice or take it to a dealer.

Security Choc another wheel, ten Jack-up and remove the wheel you are starting with.
View attachment 59296View attachment 59297

Release the handbrake and lever down the handbrake arm and flip out the end of the handbrake cable.
View attachment 59298

Remove the calliper screws and discard (New bolts supplied with pads)
View attachment 59299

Lever off the calliper and rest it on the driveshaft/shock, do not let it dangle on the brake pipe.
View attachment 59300

Disconnect the wear sensor cable connector. (there is only 1 on the inside pad on the offside wheel) Push the plug up, Pinch as indicated and pull down.
View attachment 59305

Now remove the old pads and retaining clips and discard. As you can see the rusty disks have destroyed the pads and worn down the sensor.
View attachment 59302

Using a 21mm socket and a long bar remove the 2 large bolts securing the carrier to the hub.

View attachment 59303

Using a 10mm spline(double square) bit remove the disk retaining screw.
View attachment 59304

The old disk can now be removed. It may take some beating with a Brummy screwdriver, use penetrating oil around the hub to help it come free.

We are now ready to fit the new parts.

Great instructions. Thanks.

What's the black paste on the old hub? Is this to stop the rusting and wheels sticking?

 

[Loz]

Great instructions. Thanks.

What's the black paste on the old hub? Is this to stop the rusting and wheels sticking?

Yes it was, its a graphite-based anti-seize compound.

 

[Loz]

Good write up but a couple of omissions:
Spend half a day looking for locking wheel nut key
Spend another hour trying to get wheel off the hub.
Stopping half way through to put wheel back on to move van because the Mrs has changed her mind & does want to go out in her car.
Half an hour wondering where the second brake wear sensor goes - my pads came with two but only one was fitted.

So true...

 

[rod_vw]

Hi @Loz - From many years of experience of working on various vehicles I must jump on the early part of your instructions.

NEVER EVER WORK UNDER A VEHICLE WHICH IS ONLY SUPPORTED BY A HYDRAULIC JACK!

Always use axle stands or suitable support but NEVER BRICKS.as they can shatter.

Sorry about that, maybe you did have a stand under the van but simply didn't make it obvious.

Following on I am surprised that you are having to change rear pads at only 16,000 miles. I have run 3 x T4s, 3 x T5s and now a T6, each of these has done over 40,000 miles in my ownership and I have never had to change a set of rear pads or discs. Only done fronts on rare occasions.

Rod

 

[pjm-84]

Mine was shot at 42.5k after being replaced at 27k as they were 90% worn.

 

[TripleBee]

You guys must be riding with your left foot on the brake pedal.
I changed my rear pads after over 70000 mi. and only because of the inner pads wearing faster than the outer.
I am not going to start about my fronts.

 

[Loz]

Hi @Loz - From many years of experience of working on various vehicles I must jump on the early part of your instructions.

NEVER EVER WORK UNDER A VEHICLE WHICH IS ONLY SUPPORTED BY A HYDRAULIC JACK!

Always use axle stands or suitable support but NEVER BRICKS.as they can shatter.

Sorry about that, maybe you did have a stand under the van but simply didn't make it obvious.

Following on I am surprised that you are having to change rear pads at only 16,000 miles. I have run 3 x T4s, 3 x T5s and now a T6, each of these has done over 40,000 miles in my ownership and I have never had to change a set of rear pads or discs. Only done fronts on rare occasions.

Rod

Thanks, yes obviously users must take the necessary precautions to satisfy safe working although there is no need to work under it during this operation. Plus I normally slide the wheel under.

 

[pjm-84]

You guys must be riding with your left foot on the brake pedal.
I changed my rear pads after over 70000 mi. and only because of the inner pads wearing faster than the outer.
I am not going to start about my fronts.

VW send us the seconds! Cambelt and water pumps that need changing every 4 years and brake disks that corrode at the sight of water. Oddly only the rears.

 

[TripleBee]

Probably.
I change/repair everything that is needed, but not more.
Even the cambelt of my Golf 4 from 1998 was not due before 90000 km (60000mi?).
Very strange.

I quote:
"VW Golf 4 1.9 TDI 66 kW tot 2001 = 90 000 Kilometer. Geen maximaal aantal jaren. Maximaal 10 jaar is aanbevolen. "

90000 km without time. Max. 10 years is recommended.

 

[TripleBee]

And it gets even better:
"VW Golf 4 1.9 TDI 66 kW vanaf 2001 = 120 000 Kilometer. Geen maximaal aantal jaren. Maximaal 10 jaar is aanbevolen. "
As from 2001: 120000km (90000mi?) and no time limit. Although 10 years is recommended.

On the T5.1, timebelt is not due up to 210000km (130000mi). No time limit. Probably time recommended too at 10 years.
I might chicken out and get mine changed this year, or next year? Will see.

Brakes: only when needed. This means: when worn, or when unsafe to drive (brake).