Changing the rear Disks(rotors) and pads

I have a question: Where is the correct place to position the axle stands when working on the front or rear>

Much appreciated,
Mark.
 
Yeas it clears the steel wheels where the ugly hub nut is exposed.

Hi, thanks for the info. Can I ask which cap you used as I'm trying to find a solution to help reduce rusty water running onto the wheels.

Much appreciated,
Mark
 
Although forums are very good at sharing views and supporting with problems with our vans, there comes a point where certain jobs should be carried out by qualified technicians. I have been teaching automotive for 25 years, fully trained and qualified although everyone seems to want to have ago without the knowledge of what could possibly go wrong. My advice to anybody who is deciding to branch into home mechanics, wait, think about what you are doing. Get it wrong and a vehicle could possibly injure or wipe out an entire family especially if brakes are done incorrectly. Pushing calliper pistons back to fit new pads can cause air to be drawn into the brake line, this can work it’s way into the master cylinder and you could lose partial braking, plus the excess back pressure can damage the abs pump. Your cheap job could end up costing you more in the long run and don’t just mean financial!
 
The procedure above was following the exact VW workshop manual and it does not mention or recommend a re-bleed of the brake circuit, so they obviously don't think any air will be "drawn in".

Undertaking any work as you say has its risks, just like spilling paint on the carpet when painting.
I originally only posted this on the T6Forum as the members on there seem more accepting of DIY maintenance, and there is too much "Opinion" on here.
I only posted it on here as a member was about to undertake this job and ask about it.
 
Hi, thanks for the info. Can I ask which cap you used as I'm trying to find a solution to help reduce rusty water running onto the wheels.

Much appreciated,
Mark
Its a bit hit and miss, what I did was measure the internal dia and the external and then searched Fleabay for ones that matched the dimensions.
Those in the picture are 55mm like this.
 
Landrover manual mentions about cracking a bleed nipple.

If the piston doesn't move freely them I would do this as the force on the piston is not in keeping within it design parameter. i.e it's designed to move back but not forced back.

But similarly, if I had a caliper like this then I would replace or rebuild the caliper. My PHEV caliper siezed recently and it was replaced under warranty. One of the rear calipers on my D3 was sticking and I replaced both.
 
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Pushing calliper pistons back to fit new pads can cause air to be drawn into the brake line, this can work it’s way into the master cylinder and you could lose partial braking, plus the excess back pressure can damage the abs pump.

Although forums are very good at sharing views and supporting with problems with our vans, there comes a point where certain jobs should be carried out by qualified technicians. I have been teaching automotive for 25 years, fully trained and qualified although everyone seems to want to have ago without the knowledge of what could possibly go wrong. My advice to anybody who is deciding to branch into home mechanics, wait, think about what you are doing. Get it wrong and a vehicle could possibly injure or wipe out an entire family especially if brakes are done incorrectly. Pushing calliper pistons back to fit new pads can cause air to be drawn into the brake line, this can work it’s way into the master cylinder and you could lose partial braking, plus the excess back pressure can damage the abs pump. Your cheap job could end up costing you more in the long run and don’t just mean financial!
Where did you get this from,
Pushing calliper pistons back to fit new pads can cause air to be drawn into the brake line, this can work it’s way into the master cylinder and you could lose partial braking, plus the excess back pressure can damage the abs pump.
The pistons are being pushed back not sucked back, on disc with handbrake the piston is pushed and screwed back to reset the auto adjuster, check with Lucas, ATE, Bosch etc, this is standard procedure, some are more complicated requiring diagnostics to be plugged in to reset adjuster/wear sensor.

Maybe this is why today’s auto techs don’t know anything practical only where to find the ODBC socket.

25 years... I retired 5 years ago after 30 years at the heavy end of the VW empire and one of my many responsibilities was training the emerging markets in Southeast Asia for 16 years.
 
I agree the untrained and lacking knowledge can be dangerous, but there’s a wealth of information out there some have made a tidy business supplying this, VW will sell you anthing you need to know for this very reason all you need is an account it’s about € 9 per hour, you down load a sing load of stuff for that.

Don’t underestimate people or their capabilities, I have seen the most unlikely produce some amazing results.
 
Now come on gents, don't shoot the messenger @Loz has provided a good description of how to DIY a rear brake repair. Yes I picked him up on a safety issue but...

If you need the genuine VW instructions then have a read here https://cardiagn.com/volkswagen-manuals/

After you've read through all of that you may appreciate what Loz has provided for you. Thanks Loz, there are many DIY jobs that can be carried out by anyone with a reasonable mechanical ability and with the help of forums like this they always have the support of others.
 
Good point. I had to draw off brake fluid a few times with a clean syringe
 
Where did you get this from,
Pushing calliper pistons back to fit new pads can cause air to be drawn into the brake line, this can work it’s way into the master cylinder and you could lose partial braking, plus the excess back pressure can damage the abs pump.
The pistons are being pushed back not sucked back, on disc with handbrake the piston is pushed and screwed back to reset the auto adjuster, check with Lucas, ATE, Bosch etc, this is standard procedure, some are more complicated requiring diagnostics to be plugged in to reset adjuster/wear sensor.

Maybe this is why today’s auto techs don’t know anything practical only where to find the ODBC socket.

25 years... I retired 5 years ago after 30 years at the heavy end of the VW empire and one of my many responsibilities was training the emerging markets in Southeast Asia for 16 years.
I agree here. Never heard of air being drawn in pushing the pistons back.standard procedure on all calipers that. I've always fixed my own brakes. If you have to tell people not to put their faces under Van's sitting on bricks then these same people shouldn't be changing their own brake discs. Here's a good mechanics quote for you all to keep safe... 'never put yer finger where yer wouldn't put yer cock' .
Great info loz
 
Parts came from ECP the last time they had their 35% discount code, kept them in stock as I knew I would be changing them soon.
View attachment 59314
I recently changed my rear discs and pads.
With only 20k miles on the clock (in 4 years) the discs were badly corroded and trashed the pads (obviously the Cali not used daily).
As I have a Halfords trade card the discount I got was better than Europarts for Brembo parts. However strangely the package arrived it was dispatched direct from Europarts anyway! Also for info Brembo pads came complete with replacement calliper bolts and one wear sensor (for off-side pads).
 
Those are mine. Used as daily driver.
IMG_20200519_124606.jpg
 
Those are mine. Used as daily driver.
View attachment 59652
Lovely and shiny, as they should be. I find it’s lack of use (leading to corrosion) which causes the need to replace brake discs. I haven’t changed discs for years because they are worn too thin! I clearly need to get out more, driving that is!
 
Lovely and shiny, as they should be. I find it’s lack of use (leading to corrosion) which causes the need to replace brake discs. I haven’t changed discs for years because they are worn too thin! I clearly need to get out more, driving that is!
I wouldn't say lovely, and not shiny too.
They are over half their lifespan, and are freckled with tiny rust dots. But the rear and front brake disks on my previous Golf 4 were terrible. Rear brake pads were stuck on the calipers. Had to smash them out with a hammer. And the disks kind of looked like this:

1590223064995.png

And that was a car with over 200000km in 6 years.

(not my actual picture, but of our best friend Google)
 
I have now ordered a set and will replace discs and pads myself too. I am saving 500€. I have ordered Brembo parts which is 1/4 the price of what the vw shop requests for vw parts which rusts away quickly.
 
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