EHU Cable Question

Any electrical wholsellar will sell you a length of blue cable and a commando plug/socket for each end.

Please don't kick off the whole polarity bollox again!
 
Hey all. Bought all my kit but when cable arrived spotted that its a 16Amp, which sounds great but only 1.5mm cable. Do they sound like a mismatch?
 
Hey all. Bought all my kit but when cable arrived spotted that its a 16Amp, which sounds great but only 1.5mm cable. Do they sound like a mismatch?
Ok if you're connected to a 10A supply but not strictly if the hookup point is 16A.

Circuit protective device should always be rated less than cable current carrying capacity. This ensures the circuit breaker does its job before the cable acts as a fuse and melts.

Temperature also derates a cable.
 
The Important bit as Briwy suggests is keeping the plug & socket joint off the ground - IP44 is not waterproof its splash proof, so Ok on a plug/socket halfway up the side of a van or on an electrical bollard a few feet off the ground, but not good enough to leave laying in a puddle.
 
Ok if you're connected to a 10A supply but not strictly if the hookup point is 16A.
A technicality but RCBO in my Cali is 13Amps so should never pull 16amps down the cable anyway.
 
A technicality but RCBO in my Cali is 13Amps so should never pull 16amps down the cable anyway.
You're not protecting the van internal equipment, you're protecting the hook up cable and the internal wiring between the hook up inlet and the RCBO. A fault here will cause problems.
 
You're not protecting the van internal equipment, you're protecting the hook up cable and the internal wiring between the hook up inlet and the RCBO. A fault here will cause problems.
,

Like I said a technicality but I am correct. Hookup cable is protected, obvs 2.5mm is better and as you said recommended But with a 13a max load on the van it is fine, you are not going to get any extra load between the rcbo and the hookup point. Cable is still protected for fault current and will still trip the supply as will earth leakage faults. General overload though would not be possible as you can't draw more than 13a in use.
It is the same with domestic wiring as I think you know, for example, an unfused spur wired from a ring main is wired in 2.5mm to feed a single or double socket. The single 2.5mm cable is not rated at 32a like the ring main is but it will never draw that load from it's single/double socket and is acceptable as shown in the regs book.
The regs do state though the cable should be one continuous length up to 25m and in table 721 that 16a flexible cables should have a min csa. of 2.5mm.
 
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Well quite but then I'd never sign off on a Cct using 1.5 and fed by a 16A Mcb.

As it happens I use a 1.5mm hook up myself.

Crack on.
 
16A may just be the plug & socket rating. Those are 16A rated but the actual cable may not be if a cheapo one.
 
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There is a bigger 32A type that visually looks the same, Industrial use.
Different size, won't fit a 16A outlet.
 
You will need 25m which is the CC recommended length.You will find this cumbersome. GJen gave me the tip of splitting it into one of 10m and one of 15m with a join. The CC do not like a join but I have had no problems. Trips on the van and the CC pillars should make this safe. A lockable cover is available for the join for a tenner. Also get a polarity tester plug always essential when you travel abroad or if you make a mistake with the plug wires. All this from a guy who gets someone in to change a light bulb.
Can you post a link to advice on splitting EHU as quoted (GJen )
 
Can you post a link to advice on splitting EHU as quoted (GJen )

It is not difficult to split a 25mtr cable into two.

You will need to buy a 16Amp Blue CEE cable plug and socket. These are available online or at your favorite camping shop.

Cut the 25mtr cable at the length you want (ideal is 15mtr and 10mtr) and feed one end though the cover of the relevant plug once you have dismantled it. Trim the outer insulation back by about 2 cms, and the insulation on the three cores by 5 mm.

The cores are coloured Yellow and Green, Brown and Blue and it is very important these are connected to the right pins of the plug and socket.

Look for the Earth symbol on the plug, and fit the Yellow and Green cable into this connector, tightening the screw as much as you can. The positive +ve connector MUST have the Brown wire fitted into it, while the -ve connector MUST have the Blue one fitted into it.

Clamp the cable firmly by the insulation and refit the cover.

Repeat the process on the other cut end.

Job done. Good luck.

Alan
 
It is not difficult to split a 25mtr cable into two.

You will need to buy a 16Amp Blue CEE cable plug and socket. These are available online or at your favorite camping shop.

Cut the 25mtr cable at the length you want (ideal is 15mtr and 10mtr) and feed one end though the cover of the relevant plug once you have dismantled it. Trim the outer insulation back by about 2 cms, and the insulation on the three cores by 5 mm.

The cores are coloured Yellow and Green, Brown and Blue and it is very important these are connected to the right pins of the plug and socket.

Look for the Earth symbol on the plug, and fit the Yellow and Green cable into this connector, tightening the screw as much as you can. The positive +ve connector MUST have the Brown wire fitted into it, while the -ve connector MUST have the Blue one fitted into it.

Clamp the cable firmly by the insulation and refit the cover.

Repeat the process on the other cut end.

Job done. Good luck.

Alan
Thanks Alan, so no diffrent to wiring up a 13 amp plug
 
I take it that for insurance purposes it would require PAT testing?
 
Get a grip. Just buy a 25 m length and coil it up.
 
Get a grip. Just buy a 25 m length and coil it up.
I would like a 10 meter cabe and a 15 meter cable
Cheaper and easier to by a 25 meter cable and an extra set of plugs for screwfix and split cable
 
I have got 2 x 10m cables, not too sure how insurers would see homemade cables if something went wrong?
 
Thanks Alan, so no diffrent to wiring up a 13 amp plug
Absolutely, except the cable is thicker and the plugs cost a touch more. Follow the same rules and all will be well.

Alan
 
I have got 2 x 10m cables, not too sure how insurers would see homemade cables if something went wrong?
You're serious aren't you?
I don't suppose you change your own fuses or light bulbs as it might invalidate your house insurance.

The leads you buy in any camping shop have rarely been tested to ensure they are correctly wired. A high percentage are correct but they are predominantly made overseas and. Mistakes can be made. That's why recreational vehicles with a mains supply have that little box of tricks fitted, the RCD unit.

https://www.caravanclub.co.uk/media/1022895/mains-electrical-installations-mo.pdf
 
I have got 2 x 10m cables, not too sure how insurers would see homemade cables if something went wrong?
I know a electrician who will PAT test them for me
After reading the camp site polarity thread, the instance companies would go to town with them first if something untoward was to happen
 
You're serious aren't you?
I don't suppose you change your own fuses or light bulbs as it might invalidate your house insurance.

The leads you buy in any camping shop have rarely been tested to ensure they are correctly wired. A high percentage are correct but they are predominantly made overseas and. Mistakes can be made. That's why recreational vehicles with a mains supply have that little box of tricks fitted, the RCD unit.

https://www.caravanclub.co.uk/media/1022895/mains-electrical-installations-mo.pdf
Well an RCD is there to compensate for the high earth resistance caused by the the earth rod. Circuit breakers require a certain earth loop restistance to operate in the required time to keep you alive.
RCds achieve that
 

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