Going to Norway (& back) - 2018. Looking for tips.

[Jabberwocky]

Hi Everyone
We are planning a trip to Norway in the summer, July/August/September, and will try and take in the rumoured meets in Norway & Denmark on the way if they go ahead.
At the moment we plan to travel as follows:
Harwich - Hook van Holland
HvH thru northern Netherlands, Germany, Denmark to Hirtshals for the ferry to Kristiansand in southern Norway.
North to Stavanger and Bergen stopping for, amongst other places, Pulpit Rock and Voss and on to Alesund and then to Trondheim. Probably fly to Tromso for a few days for midnight sun etc. and then come back via Norway's interia.
Its a very rough plan at the moment and the only things booked are the ferries from and back to the UK.
Any tips such as "you must not miss this on the way" to "you must avoid this" would be great to receive.
One specific bit of advice I am looking for however is whether I need to book the ferry from Hirtshals to Kristiansand and return or can I just turn up without encountering any significant delays?
Thanks for any help, guidance and/or comments you can offer.

 

[MattBW]

Ive not been yet but this is a good video:
http://campervanculture.com/category/trips/arctic-circle/

 

[Hotel California]

Rik , i suppose you seen the report on our trip few years ago?
Don't stay in the inland only , you need to do the coastallines....
https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/three-weeks-south-and-mid-norway.10354/

 

[Jabberwocky]

Rik , i suppose you seen the report on our trip few years ago?
Don't stay in the inland only , you need to do the coastallines....
https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/three-weeks-south-and-mid-norway.10354/

Thanks Wim. Yes, saw your thread, thank you. It has already given me some ideas for areas to deepen my information. I am sure I will read several times before we go! For the journey north we plan to be by the coast and then come back via the interior. At the moment my biggest concern is some of the ferries and getting upto date information and if I should book in advance. I don't really want to do that as it creates a timetable that I would prefer to be almost free (in the Cali spirit) but we will do what we need for a smooth trip - it already feels like an adventure!

 

[Hotel California]

You only need to book the one or two ferry's to get from the UK to Norway .
In Norway you don't need to book ferry's just to bring you to the other side of the fjord.
Don't book campsites , just show up .
Use the many free aires and use a campsite just every other day or even every other three days...
Use the ACSI guide .
Wil you be on the road three months?

 

[Amarillo]

The FV17 from Trondheim to Bodo must be one of the great European drives (and ferry links).


Follow my blog: www.au-revoir.eu

 

[Jabberwocky]

You only need to book the one or two ferry's to get from the UK to Norway .
In Norway you don't need to book ferry's just to bring you to the other side of the fjord.
Don't book campsites , just show up .
Use the many free aires and use a campsite just every other day or even every other three days...
Use the ACSI guide .
Wil you be on the road three months?

Thanks for above guidance Wim. Sadly all the ferries direct to Denmark or Norway no longer run so will go the same route you took. Just saw your comment in your 2015 thread that suggests the fare is cheaper from Denmark to Norway if you just turn up and don't book in advance. I wonder if that is still true? We will make this crossing during w/c 9th July. Yes we plan to have two and a half months on the road so will be taking it really easy really enjoying the country, just chillin' as they say.

 

[Jabberwocky]

The FV17 from Trondheim to Bodo must be one of the great European drives (and ferry links).


Follow my blog: www.au-revoir.eu

Thanks Tom, will check it out.

 

[WelshGas]

Why fly to Tromso, much more fun to drive there.

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/countdown-begins.10091/

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/countdown-2-begins-scandinavia-2017.18071/

3rd Trip in 2019

 

[briwy]

Too much to put on here Rik but re the Hirtshals ferry I cocked it up pre booking (actually booked the wrong way the night before we left) Got it changed OK on the day so probably no need to book if you catch the afternoon one. The morning one looked rammed, queue about a mile long.
We did Hook of Holland up to Hirtshals in a day. Nice site off to the right of the town. Biggest problem round Hamburg with road works, worth checking if its still the same.
Stavanger is worth a visit. We then went inland to Lysebotn (road not to be missed, makes the Trollstigen Pass look easy) at the end of the fiord with Pulpit Rock. Decent campsite there, ferry down the fiord under Pulpit Rock and then next day walk up to it.
We stayed a couple of nights at the site in Voss next to the lake. Booked the Norway in a Nutshell tour at the station. (cheaper to do this than through a tour operator) Magic day out and good for a rest after driving. Train up to Myrdal, then the train down to Flam, boat round to Gudvangen and then coach back to Voss.
Worked our way up the coast mainly to the Lofoten and then ran out of time.
We wild camped 75% of the time. Go offroad and there are some incredible places and it's encouraged. Only used sites when we got too smelly and needed a shower or to to do laundry. Never pre booked any sites but wise to get there in plenty of time. Got the last space at Voss at 4.30pm, very busy there. Great Thai take away there in a caravan on the main street.
Trondheim is great, probably our favourite town there.
No Camping Gaz there so we took two big and one little bottle but only ended up using one as all the sites have kitchens with free use of the facilities and we just used a single screw on burner when wild camping.
Try not to use the tunnels unless really necessary. The old roads usually go over the tops. Fairly rough in places but the scenery is amazing and hardly anyone up there.
Kept getting told by the locals to get some fishing tackle. Loads of people sea fishing and getting free food.
Went for five weeks but needed more. Will definitely return when her indoors retires.
Expect lots of tourists off the cruise ships at the main places.
Oh yes, and it's illegal to import potatoes:thefinger

 

[Jabberwocky]

Why fly to Tromso, much more fun to drive there.

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/countdown-begins.10091/

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/countdown-2-begins-scandinavia-2017.18071/

3rd Trip in 2019

Indeed I agree, but getting a little resistance on that point at the moment from the leader of the opposition. It will be a our biggest trip since we both retired and there is a some apprehension about. Will be working on that. Thanks for yr ref links will be most useful.

 

[Jabberwocky]

Too much to put on here Rik but re the Hirtshals ferry I cocked it up pre booking (actually booked the wrong way the night before we left) Got it changed OK on the day so probably no need to book if you catch the afternoon one. The morning one looked rammed, queue about a mile long.
We did Hook of Holland up to Hirtshals in a day. Nice site off to the right of the town. Biggest problem round Hamburg with road works, worth checking if its still the same.
Stavanger is worth a visit. We then went inland to Lysebotn (road not to be missed, makes the Trollstigen Pass look easy) at the end of the fiord with Pulpit Rock. Decent campsite there, ferry down the fiord under Pulpit Rock and then next day walk up to it.
We stayed a couple of nights at the site in Voss next to the lake. Booked the Norway in a Nutshell tour at the station. (cheaper to do this than through a tour operator) Magic day out and good for a rest after driving. Train up to Myrdal, then the train down to Flam, boat round to Gudvangen and then coach back to Voss.
Worked our way up the coast mainly to the Lofoten and then ran out of time.
We wild camped 75% of the time. Go offroad and there are some incredible places and it's encouraged. Only used sites when we got too smelly and needed a shower or to to do laundry. Never pre booked any sites but wise to get there in plenty of time. Got the last space at Voss at 4.30pm, very busy there. Great Thai take away there in a caravan on the main street.
Trondheim is great, probably our favourite town there.
No Camping Gaz there so we took two big and one little bottle but only ended up using one as all the sites have kitchens with free use of the facilities and we just used a single screw on burner when wild camping.
Try not to use the tunnels unless really necessary. The old roads usually go over the tops. Fairly rough in places but the scenery is amazing and hardly anyone up there.
Kept getting told by the locals to get some fishing tackle. Loads of people sea fishing and getting free food.
Went for five weeks but needed more. Will definitely return when her indoors retires.
Expect lots of tourists off the cruise ships at the main places.
Oh yes, and it's illegal to import potatoes:thefinger

Great info! Thanks, really appreciate it. As a matter of interest what time of year did you go?

 

[Gazellio]

We did the Color Ferry from Hirtshals to Kristiansand in our big Dethleffs its a great ferry and nice route as you are really in proper Norway as soon as you arrive. We drove directly north for a few hours and ended up at a Campsite on an island in a fjord and caught a trout on the first cast albeit a tiny one! Unfortunately it then rained for three days so we headed for Eastern Swedish beaches...

We stayed here: http://www.neset.no/ (our pitch now has permanents on it but it was at least high ground with a view)



Its worth noting that the beaches south of Hirtshals are worth a short stay and the countryside is very like Kent in the 1960'w... You can even drive on the beach.

 

[briwy]

Great info! Thanks, really appreciate it. As a matter of interest what time of year did you go?

Mid July/August Rik.
Wanted to make sure that all the high roads would be reasonably clear of snow.
Nowhere near as busy as we expected.
50 limit virtually everywhere which everybody sticks to. Rather nice actually as you don't get some looney up your backside all the time trying to overtake.

 

[RodCouncil]

You could take the Hurtigruten with the van from Trondheim to Tromsø, then drive back, amazing scenery from the ship and on the drive back, the ship does whale spotting tours and it's a nice way to relax after a chunk of driving.

I'll make sure you see the Lofoten Achipeligo too, we might take the Hurtigruten from Bergen to Lofoten in the summer and drive to Närvik then back into Sweden to see the Sarek Nature reserve.

 

[Amarillo]

After all the hype, we thought Lofoten was overrated. We took the ferry from Bodo to A, then drove the full length of the archipelago in a jam of great whites. It didn't help that the weather was mostly lousy.


Follow my blog: www.au-revoir.eu

 

[Sp0_0k]

Thanks for any help, guidance and/or comments you can offer.

I'd recommend to book Hirtshals ferry in advance, can save a lot. Fjordline's fjordcat is great. Just 2 hours ride. And you can safely book cali to 1,95m lowest category.
Tue-Thursday are the cheapest.
If you get in advance might get Morning one at lowest price. Closer to departure like 1-2 weeks you might get only evening ones that arrive pretty late.
July is pretty bad for Norway, looots of tourists everywhere. I think we've been like all the months from Aptil to Oct. over 10 trips already.
August is best, even September is good. Can catch Northern lights in Sept above the arctic circle easily.
We are coming in May this year than then Sep-Oct.
You need at least 4 weeks like to see anything decent. After the last 2 months trip we decided can easily go for 3-4

 

[Sp0_0k]

After all the hype, we thought Lofoten was overrated.

It definitely is. Though we so enjoyed it in September with perfect weather and so few people

 

[Sp0_0k]

Mid July/August Rik.
Wanted to make sure that all the high roads would be reasonably clear of snow.

Almost everything is cleared like around middle May. So much fun to go on just opened road with 3-6 meters snow walls

 

[briwy]

We looked at getting the Hurtigruten boat up to Kirkenes and driving back down. We had been on the12 day cruise with them in the previous winter but it worked out horrendously expensive so gave it a miss.
Fabulous trip though.

 

[Jabberwocky]

You could take the Hurtigruten with the van from Trondheim to Tromsø, then drive back, amazing scenery from the ship and on the drive back, the ship does whale spotting tours and it's a nice way to relax after a chunk of driving.

I'll make sure you see the Lofoten Achipeligo too, we might take the Hurtigruten from Bergen to Lofoten in the summer and drive to Närvik then back into Sweden to see the Sarek Nature reserve.

Hmmm..worth thinking about but quite expensive at B&B is £425/person, FB is £630/person and the Cali is £121. One way. Journey is approx two days. I'll think on that one.

 

[Jabberwocky]

Almost everything is cleared like around middle May. So much fun to go on just opened road with 3-6 meters snow walls

Agree about the snow walls - Was in Odda on the Hardangerfjord a few years back on business and the journey from Oslo was amazing - all I remember seeing was blue sky above the walls - quite intimidating / humbling in a strange kind of way.

 

[Jabberwocky]

We looked at getting the Hurtigruten boat up to Kirkenes and driving back down. We had been on the12 day cruise with them in the previous winter but it worked out horrendously expensive so gave it a miss.
Fabulous trip though.

Indeed, I just costed Trondheim to Tromso as you may have seen!! That said I will confer with the boss. More interesting than flying return but also much more expensive - may have to give Tromso a miss as I suspect it will turn out to be a real budget buster.

 

[Gazellio]

£375 each a day each including Cruise, Cabin, Breakfast Lunch, Dinner & the Cali.....

 

[WelshGas]

Drive - up through Sweden and down through Norway. Way more enjoyable. But then that's me. I enjoy driving.