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TWO California's STOLEN within the past 3 weeks !

I had an MG maestro turbo back on the early 90s. It got broken into so many times I gave up replacing the ignition barrel and just took the cable with me.

7times in all they tried and that trusty kill switch saved it every time.
 
I like the kill switch idea. Just need to work out where to add it into the system without creating a fault when you try and start it.
 
I like the kill switch idea. Just need to work out where to add it into the system without creating a fault when you try and start it.

Locate the starter motor. Find the cable that triggers the solenoid (from the ignition switch). Snip it. Crimp in a couple of lengths of cable. Route them into the cab. Connect them to a switch. Hide the switch. Done.

Better still. Remove the cowling around the steering column. Locate the wire as mentioned above. add the switch.

If anyone has a wiring diagram I'll happily point out which cable you need.
 
No news from Police for 3 weeks now.

Insurance mentioned that an Advertising agency did a search on the plates 10 days before theft.

Insurance are being a pain. After winning a battle with Admiral over the accessories, the VW GAP insurance have screwed me saying that it's part of the market value and they don't have to payout so much. So 1. Ensure any add ons are not in the delivery invoice which GAP insurance used and 2. Find another GAP insurer. I would not recommend VW Commercial Insurance or Admiral. As AXA's CEO admitted on Radio 4 on Friday, insurers are less trusted than bankers!
Please can you expand on the vw GAP problems? What's the point in having it if it is rubbish?
 
Locate the starter motor. Find the cable that triggers the solenoid (from the ignition switch). Snip it. Crimp in a couple of lengths of cable. Route them into the cab. Connect them to a switch. Hide the switch. Done.

Better still. Remove the cowling around the steering column. Locate the wire as mentioned above. add the switch.

If anyone has a wiring diagram I'll happily point out which cable you need.
Are we 100% sure a fault will not be registered when the ignition key is turned but it fails to start?
 
I am convinced the cali was targeted. I saw video today from a neighbours CCTV camera. A car drove in to our drive, then reversed out, about 3 minutes later it returned, drove in again and out again, followed by our Cali! The car must have dropped off someone who firstly tried to smash the burglar alarm, leaped the gate, tried the windows and returned to the front where he forced entry. All so fast. I agree security of keys is so important.
Surely the police must be able to do something with that ?
 
I think you're missing the point.

When you want to start it you flick the switch to on so the circuit behaves as it should. You would hardly try to start it knowing it was disabled.

If a thief has your key and tries to start it is simply won't turn over.
 
I think you're missing the point.

When you want to start it you flick the switch to on so the circuit behaves as it should. You would hardly try to start it knowing it was disabled.

If a thief has your key and tries to start it is simply won't turn over.
How do I test the modification? I'm sure at some point my wife or myself will forget. I think I will bounce the idea off one of the VW specialists such as Hazzydays before having to find someone remove the fault. I don't think it would cause a fault but I also didn't think powering my new stereo up with the front of the dash off and the air bag light disconnected would cause a fault. I believe trying to start the van with a key with no transponder will immobilise and cause a fault.
 
I know from having family living in South Africa that you can get anti hijack switches fitted my uncles last car had it within the gear gaitor on the stick. You could start the car with the key but if you hadn't pressed the button the car cuts out within 400metres.
No obvious switch to find either if you didn't know it had it you would never know.
Just as a thought.
 
It all boils down to a risk analysis. Obviously if your vehicle is Only used high days and holidays in the summer season and laid up the rest of the time then it might be worthwhile fitting something mechanical. If it is a daily driver or used very frequently a different means might be required or nothing!
Really depends on your circumstances. Myself, I cannot be fussed with disclocks, steering wheel locks or wheel clamps. These vehicles stolen seemed to have been professional in nature, and they required the keys. Fine if you are not at home, hide the keys, but if you are at home then hand them over. Dial 999 and hope your Insurance is not the cheapest for a reason.
 
It all boils down to a risk analysis. Obviously if your vehicle is Only used high days and holidays in the summer season and laid up the rest of the time then it might be worthwhile fitting something mechanical. If it is a daily driver or used very frequently a different means might be required or nothing!
Really depends on your circumstances. Myself, I cannot be fussed with disclocks, steering wheel locks or wheel clamps. These vehicles stolen seemed to have been professional in nature, and they required the keys. Fine if you are not at home, hide the keys, but if you are at home then hand them over. Dial 999 and hope your Insurance is not the cheapest for a reason.


Alas, all the talk of escorts,maestros,mk 1 golfs,rotor arms,wires from starter motors is just about 10 years out of date ...............
Has anyone tried to route wires from the engine compartment to the cab?
Firstly, think of warranty implications before you go connecting wires to here there and everywhere....modern can bus wiring must not be confused with fag packet technology,things have moved on...............
 
Alas, all the talk of escorts,maestros,mk 1 golfs,rotor arms,wires from starter motors is just about 10 years out of date ...............
Has anyone tried to route wires from the engine compartment to the cab?
Firstly, think of warranty implications before you go connecting wires to here there and everywhere....modern can bus wiring must not be confused with fag packet technology,things have moved on...............
I'm definitely out of date and shall consult a vehicle electrician. It should still be fairly simple to stick a switch somewhere in the system....surely?
 
You should definitely take GAP insurance if buying new. But shop around. Someone on the Insurance threads has said Caravan Club does a good GAP.

I've put the VW GAP insurance issue under the Insurance thread.

If you the dealer fitted accessories are listed in the original invoice, then the VW GAP insurance will remove value. So lets say its 55k - 2k = 53k

Your insurer will give you market value for the van, including dealer fitted accessories. Say 50k. GAP will then pay 3k only, so you never get value back on dealer fitted accessories!
 
Please can you expand on the vw GAP problems? What's the point in having it if it is rubbish?

Hi Skylark, please see Insurance threads where I set up one called VW Gap Insurance. I've also posted a comment about Gap on the other stolen Cali thread. Effectively Gap will uplift to value excl dealer fitted accessories from insurers market value including them, so you never get value back on dealer fitted accessories!
 
You should definitely take GAP insurance if buying new. But shop around. Someone on the Insurance threads has said Caravan Club does a good GAP.

I've put the VW GAP insurance issue under the Insurance thread.

If you the dealer fitted accessories are listed in the original invoice, then the VW GAP insurance will remove value. So lets say its 55k - 2k = 53k

Your insurer will give you market value for the van, including dealer fitted accessories. Say 50k. GAP will then pay 3k only, so you never get value back on dealer fitted accessories!
I recently bought a three month old, ex demo Cali and insured it with the Caravan Club. Their web site states:
  • "New for old replacement of your motorhome up to 24 months from new – no mileage limit".
When I enquired about the policy, I made a point of explaining on two separate occasions, to two separate CC operators/agents that my Cali was an ex demo vehicle and queried whether it would be covered for this new for old benifit and both CC agents told me that it would be. I hope I never have to find out if they are right or not!
Whilst this isn't really GAP insurance as I understand it, if it replaces your vehicle with a new one in the event of your current pride and joy being written off, then I surpose it would have the same effect. I am afraid that it didn't occur to me to ask whether dealer fitted extras would be included but if they were to give me a new replacement Cali then that in itself would be a result. However I shall ask that question.
 
CC use the Original invoice + an amount for the camping accessories. Gas bottle, sleeping equipment, cooking equipment etc. Normally fairly generous but can be increased if you can prove it, eg: standalone awnings, bike racks etc.
My first years insurance was ÂŁ420 fully comprehensive including GAP, with 7 years NCD.. More expensive than some, but they new exactly what the SE was and had. Oh, and if you are retired it gives 270 days of European cover, which can be extended, and no stupid clause about leaving the vehicle unattended if you use it to take you to the airport and leave it in the airport car park for your non - California holiday.
 
CC use the Original invoice + an amount for the camping accessories. Gas bottle, sleeping equipment, cooking equipment etc. Normally fairly generous but can be increased if you can prove it, eg: standalone awnings, bike racks etc.
My first years insurance was ÂŁ420 fully comprehensive including GAP, with 7 years NCD.. More expensive than some, but they new exactly what the SE was and had. Oh, and if you are retired it gives 270 days of European cover, which can be extended, and no stupid clause about leaving the vehicle unattended if you use it to take you to the airport and leave it in the airport car park for your non - California holiday.
Hello WelshGas,
It does seem to be a good policy. I originaly enquired about it after having read your comments in an earlier post. Thanks for the recommendation.
Did they offer you separate GAP insurance or was it as I have described?
Sorry if I sound a little sceptical about this new for old policy. Thats because all of the GAP policies that I have enquired about before insist that you are the first registered owner. In my case it was the dealer who sold it to me.
The cover for camping extras etc also seems to be good.
 
Things still rely on electrons traveling along bits of copper cable just as before. Canbus hasn't changed the laws of physics.
 
Next you will be saying electrons travel from positive to negative.;)
 
Hello WelshGas,
It does seem to be a good policy. I originaly enquired about it after having read your comments in an earlier post. Thanks for the recommendation.
Did they offer you separate GAP insurance or was it as I have described?
Sorry if I sound a little sceptical about this new for old policy. Thats because all of the GAP policies that I have enquired about before insist that you are the first registered owner. In my case it was the dealer who sold it to me.
The cover for camping extras etc also seems to be good.
CC call it New for Old, because it is basically the one Insurance Company that covers your vehicle rather than, in most instances one Insurance company covering the vehicle to book value and the GAP Insurance company covering the Gap between book value and Invoice Value.
Check if you want but I believe an Ex-Demo vehicle sold by Dealer that registered the vehicle as their Demo vehicle is classed as a New Vehicle. There are an awful lot of pre-registered vehicles sold nowadays and I cannot see these Insurance companies or Dealers forgoing that market.:thumb
 
It looks to me from the current flow diagram as thought the simple solution is to remove fuse SB23 from the fuse panel. This would appear to be the feed from ignition sw to starter. Without the fuse it won't start.

http://www.1946vw.co.uk/vwbooks/vw_info/T5_pdfs/T5_Basic_Elec_ 2005-7.pdf

Page 2. D is the ignition sw, B is the starter. The last twist of the key (the spring loaded part) will send juice to the starter motor via fuse SB23. Remove the fuse, it won't start.
 
Most insurance policies provide new for old cover when the vehicle is up to 1 year old, some longer. Just make sure you are clear with the company you are buying from whether they want you to declare any factory fitted options or not.
The problem comes when this initial period expires, as market value may not not match the actual cost of replacement like for like basis. This is where GAP insurance comes in and like any insurance, some will be better than others.
 
Back in the 90's I had a couple of 'hot hatches'. The solution to theft at the time was to fit a separate immobiliser than required a fob to touch a sensor within a certain time. Would have thought such systems are still available that can be fitted to a Cali?
 
CC call it New for Old, because it is basically the one Insurance Company that covers your vehicle rather than, in most instances one Insurance company covering the vehicle to book value and the GAP Insurance company covering the Gap between book value and Invoice Value.
Check if you want but I believe an Ex-Demo vehicle sold by Dealer that registered the vehicle as their Demo vehicle is classed as a New Vehicle. There are an awful lot of pre-registered vehicles sold nowadays and I cannot see these Insurance companies or Dealers forgoing that market.:thumb
Thanks for your confirmation. That is just what I thought.
It is also reassuring to know that our Cali should be covered on New for Old.
 

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