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Hob ignition upgrade

GrumpyGranddad

GrumpyGranddad

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Can’t see why not @Corradobrit as long as the button fits the existing hole.
 
M

marchugo

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The diameters of my original VW plug and of the new one from Onlyfire are both 1.7 MM. So the hole is about the same.

All the best from Amsterdam,

Marc.
 
M

marchugo

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@Corradobit

Drilling the hole to 22 mm is maybe too much.
As I see in the advertisement of the Etermeta plug, its diameter is indeed 22 MM, but maybe you better open the hole to a max of 21.5 mm or less. You have to screw in the thread of the plug into the steel bottom plate of the hob. Making the hole too wide, there is no way the plug can screw itself in. It just hangs loose.

Regards from Amsterdam,

Marc.
 
Corradobrit

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@Corradobit

Drilling the hole to 22 mm is maybe too much.
As I see in the advertisement of the Etermeta plug, its diameter is indeed 22 MM, but maybe you better open the hole to a max of 21.5 mm or less. You have to screw in the thread of the plug into the steel bottom plate of the hob. Making the hole too wide, there is no way the plug can screw itself in. It just hangs loose.

Regards from Amsterdam,

Marc.
The ignitor button doesn't need to be screwed into the plate. It is secured by a soft washer and nut if you look closely.
 
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marchugo

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Ah, sorry.
You're right. Forget my post.
I overlooked the black rubber washer above the nut.
22 mm will do.

Success. Keep us posted about the result.

Marc.

1674410555915.png
 
VincentVan

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Hi Corradobrit

As you say, to use that button you will need to open the hole to 22mm. However I would be very careful of using the hole cutter you describe:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B08BCKJHQM/

The reason I say that is because those cutters work well only if the inner hole is the right diameter for the bolt that winds the cutting faces together, appx 8mm. At 17mm the hole in the worktop is much larger and the cutter won’t work properly. It could distort the stainless steel surface as well as making a mess of the hole. I think you’d be much safer using a round file even though it will take a bit longer.

The metal button looks slick. Keep us posted
 
GrumpyGranddad

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But why not use the available ignition kit that does not require opening up the hole. No going back once drilled out!
 
Corradobrit

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Just a more elegant, low profile, all metal alternative. Doubt I would ever want to go back to stock.
 
Moakesy

Moakesy

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Presumably, buying this smaller button instead would still work? Just swap the button out for the one included Corradobrit's post?

It requires a 16mm diameter hole, so slightly small, but I'm guessing the lock nut would stop any movement?

I've always liked the idea of doing what's in this post, but 'professional like quality' is not a strong point of any DIY venture I undertake and I know I'd bodge it up. I don't want to do that to my van.

If this works as a no-drill option I'd do it.
 
GrahamB

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Presumably, buying this smaller button instead would still work? Just swap the button out for the one included Corradobrit's post?

It requires a 16mm diameter hole, so slightly small, but I'm guessing the lock nut would stop any movement?

I've always liked the idea of doing what's in this post, but 'professional like quality' is not a strong point of any DIY venture I undertake and I know I'd bodge it up. I don't want to do that to my van.

If this works as a no-drill option I'd do it.
Unless I am missing something, that looks like the same button with a 19mm thread diameter?
 
GrahamB

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Unless I am missing something, that looks like the same button with a 19mm thread diameter?
PS that said, taking the original hole out by 1mm radius to 19mm should be very easily possible with a round file. I’d suggest that small increase in radius would be virtually impossible with any powered mechanical tool.
 
GrahamB

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PS that said, taking the original hole out by 1mm radius to 19mm should be very easily possible with a round file. I’d suggest that small increase in radius would be virtually impossible with any powered mechanical tool.
PPS this one however is 16mm thread diameter which might work without cutting… https://amzn.eu/d/fRPn0gr. Is this the one you meant @Moakesy?
 
GrahamB

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It was. Sorry, wrong link
@Moakesy No need to apologise. I have ordered the 16mm one now and already had the other bits, just haven't got around to fitting it yet due to the cold weather! Thanks for pointing me in that direction, it looks like a neat solution if it fits. Will update.
 
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Another +1 for @VincentVan and successful install.


GFTIME 7642 Grill Igniter for Weber Spirit E/S-210 (with Front Burner Knobs), for Spirit E-310 (with Front Burner Knobs), 69850 Electronic Ignitor Kit for Weber Spirit E/S-210 220 E310 (2013 & Newer)

Couple of tips to speed up the fitting.

1) Snipped off the spade fixing tab on the earth (red sleeve) new item ceramic spark point.
This allowed me to join the red sleeve spade connector to the VW white plastic block earth connector. So no cutting and just insulation tape over connection just in case.
2)Basin spanner perfect for removing VW igniter lock nut if finger or reduced dexterity prevent you easily reaching the nut.
3)Used a Velcro cable tie to anchor the battery/base unit to water pipe on top of waste tank.

So only one connection to solder and shrink wrap
1hr, 52E76473-676A-4195-8748-48BE2DACDF02.jpegE6457146-B8B9-4AAD-A469-F86720C5922A.jpeg414D1582-9F2F-433E-927F-7289E63B139C.jpeggreat mod :thumb
 
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GrahamB

GrahamB

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I finally got time to do this mod using the 16mm low profile stainless steel switch from Amazon (referenced in the thread above). On its own the switch is too small, it just falls through the hole. Fortunately I had ordered two as they are cheap and to have a spare. So I was able to use a locking nut on either side of the hob top and it fits. I guess a washer could be used as a baseplate to sit the switch on if you could find one of the right size. I did the same as @Resfeber and flattened the red sheathed spade connector to make it fit the white female spade connection on the van. The black wires I connected using a solder seal connector but I left the van end connector in situ so the entire job is reversible. Although I can’t think why I would. Its a really cool modification, many thanks to @VincentVan for sharing the idea and others for their contributions.

090C1D80-29D3-4805-A447-F86CD0B19662.jpeg

6816AB58-EC47-4A15-9B62-055AA37AE7AF.jpeg

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