Updated Bolt-on Cali and T5/6 Solar Panels for 2017

1 - unfortunately not. There is a WiFi adapter for your charger but the app is really poor so I don't sell it.
2 - you either need to replace your solar regulator with a dual charger like the Western Co one on my site (drop me an email and I'll see if I can better retail price for you as an existing customer) - which also has Bluetooth.

Or, insert a two way toggle switch between the regulator and both batteries so you can flick it between charging your starter battery OR your leisure batteries. It won't do it automatically. But of a bodge but can be used to put charge in the starter battery in an emergency.
 
A few weekends ago I fitted the dual battery MPPT Bluetooth - WRM15 kit from Roger Donoghue at solarcampersolutions to our cali and so far it's been great.
I wanted to be able to keep the engine battery topped up as well as I have a dash cam which is always on and is wired into that battery. I also have a mifi running on the leisure battery. I know I could have moved the connection for the camera but this dual option seemed really good. So, since there was some previous talk about it I thought it worth dropping some pics in for anyone else that was looking to do it.

I was apprehensive about messing with the permanent live under the passenger seat and all that could go wrong, but it worked out fine.

Top tips for anyone else doing this are:
- Wide paint scrapers for easing the rear leisure battery out (as has been mentioned by WelshGas before - worked a treat)
- A bit of silicon spray helps when leading the cable through the rubber wiring grommet above the boot lid - without it the cable tends to pull and then risks tearing the hole you've cut.image001.jpg image003.jpg image004.jpg image005.jpg image006.jpg image007.jpg image008.jpg image009.jpg image010.jpg image011.jpg
 
A few weekends ago I fitted the dual battery MPPT Bluetooth - WRM15 kit to our cali and so far it's been great.
I wanted to be able to keep the engine battery topped up as well as I have a dash cam which is always on and is wired into that battery. I also have a mifi running on the leisure battery. I know I could have moved the connection for the camera but this dual option seemed really good. So, since there was some previous talk about it I thought it worth dropping some pics in for anyone else that was looking to do it.

I was apprehensive about messing with the permanent live under the passenger seat and all that could go wrong, but it worked out fine.

Top tips for anyone else doing this are:
- Wide paint scrapers for easing the rear leisure battery out (as has been mentioned by WelshGas before - worked a treat)
- A bit of silicon spray helps when leading the cable through the rubber wiring grommet above the boot lid - without it the cable tends to pull and then risks tearing the hole you've cut.View attachment 33378 View attachment 33379 View attachment 33380 View attachment 33381 View attachment 33382 View attachment 33383 View attachment 33384 View attachment 33385 View attachment 33386 View attachment 33387 View attachment 33381View attachment 33382 View attachment 33383 View attachment 33384 View attachment 33385 View attachment 33386 View attachment 33387
And a couple more pics....
image013.jpg image015.jpg

IMG_6F0C879F601F-1.jpeg
 
Thanks for the detailed report. Your feedback and pictures have enabled me to create additional instructions for wiring up the dual charger.

A couple of updates.

- Current panels are back to black cells on a white background - black on black coming back in stock later this month.
- I have just ordered some "cube fuses" - the one that goes on the rear leisure battery positive terminal. I have seen quite a few blown ones when inspecting customer vans, so I now have a handful to use if a customer arrives for an installation with a dead fuse. Saves you the hassle and considerable cost of going to VW.
 
Thanks for all the very useful info.

Any tips on routing the wires from charge controller in the rear cupboard of an SE to the battery under the passenger seat?
Is it best to go under the fridge and along the back of the cupboard under the cooker/sink? Or up and over behind the trim above the windows above the sink, and then down inside the B pillar?

How tricky are the trims to remove and get back on?
Thanks again.
 
Thanks for all the very useful info.

Any tips on routing the wires from charge controller in the rear cupboard of an SE to the battery under the passenger seat?
Is it best to go under the fridge and along the back of the cupboard under the cooker/sink? Or up and over behind the trim above the windows above the sink, and then down inside the B pillar?

How tricky are the trims to remove and get back on?
Thanks again.
Why do you want to connect to the Leisure Battery under the Passenger seat?
Is there something wrong with the Leisure Battery in the base of the Rear Wardrobe?
 
It's a dual battery charge controller, so planning to connect to engine battery AND leisure battery under the passenger seat as outlined earlier in this thread.
Advice welcome!
 
To get to the relay under the passenger seat for access to the terminal to the starter battery in an SE/Ocean....

Push the wire through the gap where the rear wheel arch meets the inside lower cupboard where the battery is stored (pull out the battery). After a few attempts this will appear at the other side of the fridge in the floor cupboard where the gas tap is (is it a gas tap?). Access is helped by removing the round plastic cover for the tap/valve.

Route the cable round the rear of the cupboards and then push it out the end so it comes through where plastic body trim meets the end of the cupboards (near the power socket). You need to use a flat screwdriver to lever the plastic away from the cupboard and then you can feed the wire through. It then tucks behind the plastic trim.

I did it yesterday and would have taken some pics if I'd read this !
 
Hi Roger,
I note from your website there is either a VW T4, T5, T6 Stick-on solar panel kit available or a VW California (T5 & T6) solar panel kit available.
Which would better suit my 2018 Ocean?
Also, would I be able to get the 100W kit now, then, if I decide at a later date, get an additional 100W panel? Would I need anything else or just the panel? Incidentally, I'd opt for the bluetoth option to
Cheers
 
Hi, you'd want the California kit (select SE in the drop down box). You can easily add a second panel at a later date.it just plugs into your existing panel. It comes with fixings etc and is a touch cheaper than the complete kit. The Victron Bluetooth MPPT regulator can handle two panels happily.
 
Here's a photo of our panels, easy to see with the bike rack removed.
View attachment 21460
Excess wire for popping up the roof can simply be tucked into the tailgate void.

You can also see the extra loop of wire loosely cable tied and tucked under the panels. This is to mitigate any risk, however small, of the excess wire becoming snagged in the tailgate, and the wire snapping when the roof is popped up.
Very interesting.
Do the solar panels touch the roof in the middle and if so is there anything to protect the paintwork?
 
Very interesting.
Do the solar panels touch the roof in the middle and if so is there anything to protect the paintwork?

IME the panels are no issue but the aluminium angle will mark the paintwork - I have added a strip of 'cork' bicycle handlebar tape on the underside full length of each angle. It sticks well and has a soft outer with slight cushioning.
 
IME the panels are no issue but the aluminium angle will mark the paintwork - I have added a strip of 'cork' bicycle handlebar tape on the underside full length of each angle. It sticks well and has a soft outer with slight cushioning.
My panel from Roger came with protective foam strip which does touch the roof but keeps the aluminium away from the paint.
 
IME the panels are no issue but the aluminium angle will mark the paintwork - I have added a strip of 'cork' bicycle handlebar tape on the underside full length of each angle. It sticks well and has a soft outer with slight cushioning.
Could you use thicker rubber mounting washers under the alluminium angle to raise the whole thing up to clear the paintwork?
 
I use three strips of PU foam to prtect the roof, and I've seen panels that have been on for years and no marks were underneath. So so far it hasn't happened as far as I'm aware :) The roof curve helps hold the panel down firm so there is no movement.

Hope that helps.
 
Could you use thicker rubber mounting washers under the alluminium angle to raise the whole thing up to clear the paintwork?

If you lift it up to clear the paintwork, the panel will lose all of the rigidity afforded by having it "bent" over the roof, then you'll suffer panel flutter and ultimately the panel will fail.
 
With the dual battery mppt controller, do you fit connect to one leisure battery and the starter battery? Can you get a feed to the starter battery from under the seat? Also, can you share the negative or do you require to run a negative to the batteries you are charging?
 
You connect live and earth to the LB, and only live to the SB via a relay under the seat. No need for a second earth as earth is all common.
 
A single negative needs to go to the chassis so that the shunt can correctly measure the charge. And the starter battery will also have its earth from the chassis through its shunt on the battery terminal.
if you only connect the negative to the LB terminal, the return from the starter battery will effectively be going through 2 shunts.

so just take the negative from the controller to the chassis.
 
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