Wheel changing

[briwy]

With snow forecast it's time to change the wheels for the winter tyres.
I realise this is teaching many how to suck eggs but for first timers a bit of a guide.

Equipment, this is the ideal. Breaker bar, Impact wrench, Trolley jack, Alignment tool, Locking bolt key, Torque wrench (essential). I also use some nitrile gloves.


This is our Yeti but the principle is exactly the same for the Cali. Calis turn tomorrow.
Apply handbrake and put in bottom gear.
Jack up the vehicle so that the tyre is still in contact with ground and use the breaker bar to slightly loosen the bolts. This can be very difficult with only the wrench supplied with the Cali. A length of steel tube over the hadle will help or buy one of the wheel wrenches with an extendable handle.

Jack up so that the tyre is about an inch clear of the ground and use the impact wrench to remove the bolt nearest the top.

Screw in the alignment tool and then remove the rest of the bolts and slide the wheel off.




Get the new wheel and tyre and make sure that the rotation direction is correct. Not all tyres have this but many do.


Slide the new wheel onto the alignment tool and push onto the hub. Put a couple of bolts in and tighten up to hold the wheel in place. A good idea to put a bit of grease round the hub, especiallly with alloys. to prevent the wheel sticking to the hub.


Remove the alignment tool and put the rest of the bolts in and tighten with the impact wrench.

Lower the jack until the tyre is just touching the ground and then use the torque wrench to correctly tighten the bolts to the correct setting. Start with one bolt and then diagonally across until they are all done. Go round again to check. Getting the correct torque setting is absolutely essential.


Finally lower the vehicle back to the ground and go round all four wheels again with the torque wrench to double check.
Check the tyre pressures (including the spare) and put any wheeel trims, nut covers etc on. Job done.

Of course this can still be done using the Cali jack and a socket set but takes a lot longer but you will definitely need a torque wrench to get the bolts tightened correctly.

 

[Hotel California]

No way .....!
This is telepathy!

I changed my summer to winters today making pictures and a movie!
@briwy
Can i put it on here or would you feel better if i make my own topic

 

[briwy]

Thats fine, put it on here Wim, no point in two threads on the same thing.

 

[T6 CFO]

I knew there was something I had forgotten.

Breaker bar and alignment tool on route.


Mike

 

[Jabberwocky]

With snow forecast it's time to change the wheels for the winter tyres.
I realise this is teaching many how to suck eggs but for first timers a bit of a guide.

Equipment, this is the ideal. Breaker bar, Impact wrench, Trolley jack, Alignment tool, Locking bolt key, Torque wrench (essential). I also use some nitrile gloves.
View attachment 17594

This is our Yeti but the principle is exactly the same for the Cali. Calis turn tomorrow.
Apply handbrake and put in bottom gear.
Jack up the vehicle so that the tyre is still in contact with ground and use the breaker bar to slightly loosen the bolts. This can be very difficult with only the wrench supplied with the Cali. A length of steel tube over the hadle will help or buy one of the wheel wrenches with an extendable handle.
View attachment 17586
Jack up so that the tyre is about an inch clear of the ground and use the impact wrench to remove the bolt nearest the top.
View attachment 17587
Screw in the alignment tool and then remove the rest of the bolts and slide the wheel off.
View attachment 17588

View attachment 17590

Get the new wheel and tyre and make sure that the rotation direction is correct. Not all tyres have this but many do.
View attachment 17589

Slide the new wheel onto the alignment tool and push onto the hub. Put a couple of bolts in and tighten up to hold the wheel in place. A good idea to put a bit of grease round the hub, especiallly with alloys. to prevent the wheel sticking to the hub.
View attachment 17591

Remove the alignment tool and put the rest of the bolts in and tighten with the impact wrench.

Lower the jack until the tyre is just touching the ground and then use the torque wrench to correctly tighten the bolts to the correct setting. Start with one bolt and then diagonally across until they are all done. Go round again to check. Getting the correct torque setting is absolutely essential.
View attachment 17592

Finally lower the vehicle back to the ground and go round all four wheels again with the torque wrench to double check.
Check the tyre pressures (including the spare) and put any wheeel trims, nut covers etc on. Job done.

Of course this can still be done using the Cali jack and a socket set but takes a lot longer but you will definitely need a torque wrench to get the bolts tightened correctly.

Did you take any photos of the trolley jack and placement? Did you have special protector pads? I have a BMW Z4 and using a trolley jack is a bit tricky. (still waiting for my Cali!!)

 

[Hotel California]

Starting to say that those who call RAC or other help when having a flat tyre , please skip to a other tread . Nothing to see here...
Those maybe want to learn someting read further ......

For those want to see how i change a (steel) wheel on a Cali T5 using the original jack , i have been filming again....
I changed my summer wheels to winters today .

I only got two sets steels , no security bolts .
Here the jack in position in the front




And the rear







I use simple tools , a big X wrench and original VW jack as this would be as you would do it on the road .
Alligning tool ....not needed , go perfect without.
The way it is filmed offcoarse is ideal conditions!

I usualy clean the tambour using a (used) sandingpaper brushing the rust of and some copperspray to clean , not spraying on the tambour! but using a cloth .

Before


Afther



When all done i testride and give all the bolts a tighten with the Big X wrench by hand , never used a torque wrench ( as Briwy says it's essential) never had any issues ( also not on my other cars)


Then there is the common problem that the wheel is stuck with all the bolts removed.( more common with alu-wheels)
Tip: put the bolts back in by hand and lower the verhicle gently to the ground using the jack . The weight of the verhicle should pop the wheel loose.
I usual loosen the bolts almost fully before jacking up witch does the trick
If still not , take the jack away and carfully move the verhicle a bit , if front wheel wobble the steeringwheel.

 

[Jabberwocky]

Starting to say that those who call RAC or other help when having a flat tyre , please skip to a other tread . Nothing to see here...
Those maybe want to learn someting read further ......

For those want to see how i change a (steel) wheel on a Cali T5 using the original jack , i have been filming again....
I changed my summer to winters today .

I only got two sets steels , no security bolts .
Here the jack in position in the front
View attachment 17596

View attachment 17597

And the rear

View attachment 17598

View attachment 17599

View attachment 17600

I use simple tools , a big X wrench and original VW jack as this would be as you would do it on the road .
Alligning tool ....not needed , go perfect witnout.
The way it is filmed offcoarse is ideal conditions!

I usualy clean the tambour using a (used) sandingpaper brushing the rust of and some copperspray to clean , not spraying on the tambour! but using a cloth .

Before
View attachment 17602

Afther

View attachment 17603

When all done i testride and give all the bolts a tighten with the Big X wrench by hand , never used a torque wrench ( as Briwy says it's essential) never had any issues ( also not on my other cars)


Then there is the common problem that the wheel is stuck with all the bolts removed.
Tip: put the bolts back in by hand and lower the verhicle gently to the ground using the jack . The wieght of the verhicle should pop the wheel loose.
I usual loosen the bolts almost fully before jacking up witch does the trick
If still not , take the jack away and carfully move the verhicle a bit , if front wheel wobble the steeringwheel.

Great details pics and real practical advice about loosening the wheel after all bolts unscrewed. Excellent, thank you.

 

[Jabberwocky]

Starting to say that those who call RAC or other help when having a flat tyre , please skip to a other tread . Nothing to see here...
Those maybe want to learn someting read further ......

For those want to see how i change a (steel) wheel on a Cali T5 using the original jack , i have been filming again....
I changed my summer to winters today .

I only got two sets steels , no security bolts .
Here the jack in position in the front
View attachment 17596

View attachment 17597

And the rear

View attachment 17598

View attachment 17599

View attachment 17600

I use simple tools , a big X wrench and original VW jack as this would be as you would do it on the road .
Alligning tool ....not needed , go perfect witnout.
The way it is filmed offcoarse is ideal conditions!

I usualy clean the tambour using a (used) sandingpaper brushing the rust of and some copperspray to clean , not spraying on the tambour! but using a cloth .

Before
View attachment 17602

Afther

View attachment 17603

When all done i testride and give all the bolts a tighten with the Big X wrench by hand , never used a torque wrench ( as Briwy says it's essential) never had any issues ( also not on my other cars)


Then there is the common problem that the wheel is stuck with all the bolts removed.( more common with alu-wheels)
Tip: put the bolts back in by hand and lower the verhicle gently to the ground using the jack . The wieght of the verhicle should pop the wheel loose.
I usual loosen the bolts almost fully before jacking up witch does the trick
If still not , take the jack away and carfully move the verhicle a bit , if front wheel wobble the steeringwheel.

Do you have any experience of using a trolley jack? Can you share??

 

[Jabberwocky]

Starting to say that those who call RAC or other help when having a flat tyre , please skip to a other tread . Nothing to see here...
Those maybe want to learn someting read further ......

For those want to see how i change a (steel) wheel on a Cali T5 using the original jack , i have been filming again....
I changed my summer to winters today .

I only got two sets steels , no security bolts .
Here the jack in position in the front
View attachment 17596

View attachment 17597

And the rear

View attachment 17598

View attachment 17599

View attachment 17600

I use simple tools , a big X wrench and original VW jack as this would be as you would do it on the road .
Alligning tool ....not needed , go perfect witnout.
The way it is filmed offcoarse is ideal conditions!

I usualy clean the tambour using a (used) sandingpaper brushing the rust of and some copperspray to clean , not spraying on the tambour! but using a cloth .

Before
View attachment 17602

Afther

View attachment 17603

When all done i testride and give all the bolts a tighten with the Big X wrench by hand , never used a torque wrench ( as Briwy says it's essential) never had any issues ( also not on my other cars)


Then there is the common problem that the wheel is stuck with all the bolts removed.( more common with alu-wheels)
Tip: put the bolts back in by hand and lower the verhicle gently to the ground using the jack . The wieght of the verhicle should pop the wheel loose.
I usual loosen the bolts almost fully before jacking up witch does the trick
If still not , take the jack away and carfully move the verhicle a bit , if front wheel wobble the steeringwheel.

Love your clean garage floor! I wish!!!

 

[Stuart]

Thanks both of you! Planning on swapping mine this week. I'm definitely more HC than briwy in terms of tools though

 

[briwy]

No problem using a trolley jack on the Cali's jacking points under the sills. The jacking points are fairy hefty steel plates so no need for any pads between the jack and the jacking point.

 

[Hotel California]

I am looking at small pot-jack ( is that correct engisch?) as a trolley jack you don't carry in the verhicle and the original VW jack is not that all quality tool imo.

 

[briwy]

I am looking at small pot-jack ( is that correct engisch?) as a trolley jack you don't carry in the verhicle and the original VW jack is not that all quality tool imo.

Yes we carry a small hydraulic bottle jack as well Wim.
I agree a torque wrench probably not essential on steel wheels but a must for alloys.

 

[T6 CFO]

I carry a torque for my Carbon bike anyway so torque from now on. Presume the settings are in the handbook. Will label up the Jack tomorrow with setting.

Liked the video HC always done the same with slipping the spare under the vehicle sill, just in case as not likely to have a nice flat shinning floor to change it on.


Mike

 

[Hotel California]

I carry a torque for my Carbon bike anyway so torque from now on. Presume the settings are in the handbook. Will label up the Jack tomorrow with setting.

Liked the video HC always done the same with slipping the spare under the vehicle sill, just in case as not likely to have a nice flat shinning floor to change it on.


Mike

About putting the spare under the chassis just in case the jack might slip away .
I was thinking as the Cali is pretty high on his feet my original steel 215 is not all that high and might still end up damaging the breakdisks if it schould happen.
At home i use a solid metal stud as xtra security have not showed it in the vid.

Another thing is where do you put it ...should the chassis be damaged if such thing happens?
Ok , how big are the odds ?

 

[Loz]

Always remember to only push on the breaker bar when loosening the bolts never pull it unless you want to pull your back!

 

[andyinluton]

I would have chocked the other wheel on the same side as I was working & keep couple of large blocks of wood laying around in the garage just for that.

 

[Days out]

Wheely useful post. Thanks guys. Hope you are not too tyred from all the nut loosening and tightening. This site really is a hub of information

 

[Hotel California]

I would have chocked the other wheel on the same side as I was working & keep couple of large blocks of wood laying around in the garage just for that.

Actually you need to shock the diagonal opposite wheel , witch i did but not visible on the vid.

 

[andyinluton]

I always chock the one on the side I'm working because:
1. its not so far to walk
2. it makes naff all difference
3. if I'm doing it in the drive at home I park up close to a low wall with a prickly hedge above it on the opposite side so its hard to get round there.
4. Im less likely to forget I put the chocks there when I've finished.

 

[Hotel California]

I have cleaned the wheels and let them dry the night .
Checked the profile dept and looked for damage , lowerd the pressure to 1bar.
Now they go on my garage attic on one of those tyre stands ( cheap at Lidl ) , cover them from light
As you can see i mark them on the inside to know where they sat when taken of , i swap front to rear when they go back on.

 

[Loz]

you should increase the pressure to store wheels...

 

[Hotel California]

you should increase the pressure to store wheels...

Why ?
My tyre salesman said it is ok to lower presure .

 

[Rich20]

I carry a torque for my Carbon bike anyway so torque from now on. Presume the settings are in the handbook. Will label up the Jack tomorrow with setting.

Liked the video HC always done the same with slipping the spare under the vehicle sill, just in case as not likely to have a nice flat shinning floor to change it on.


Mike

150 PSI torque setting for alloy wheels.

 

[Hotel California]

150 PSI torque setting for alloy wheels.

I never used a torque wrench on my previous Beemer or my LR Freelander or my LR Defender ....even on the wife's Renault Sienic now , all alu wheels never had an issue .
Why would it not be ok just pulling wheelnuts by hand? If you check them afther a testride .