Increased Oil Consumption Problem (2010 T5 Cali 180 bhp)

@Lou Hill , any news with your Cali and VW?
 
Excuse my ignorance, how can I check if my 2014 180hp BiTurbo engine is the CFCA type? Also, as my warranty is up this coming April, any advise on what steps I could/should take before then?
Should say that to my knowledge, I don't have a problem yet. Thanks.
 
Excuse my ignorance, how can I check if my 2014 180hp BiTurbo engine is the CFCA type? Also, as my warranty is up this coming April, any advise on what steps I could/should take before then?
Should say that to my knowledge, I don't have a problem yet. Thanks.
Hi, initially 2010-2011 180biturbo Californias and Transporters affected due to the EGR valve fitted, however recently there have been reports of other years also affected due to having faulty EGR valves (pre D suffix). Not sure anyone on here has been affected outside of 2010-11 year Calis but on other T5 forums there are now quite a few, even unconfirmed repotrs of a T6. Check out the above mentioned facebook group if you can as it is growing at a fast rate.
 
Excuse my ignorance, how can I check if my 2014 180hp BiTurbo engine is the CFCA type? Also, as my warranty is up this coming April, any advise on what steps I could/should take before then?
Should say that to my knowledge, I don't have a problem yet. Thanks.

The sticker in the front of your service book shows you engine type, gearbox and all the options fitted to your vehicle.
 
Excuse my ignorance, how can I check if my 2014 180hp BiTurbo engine is the CFCA type? Also, as my warranty is up this coming April, any advise on what steps I could/should take before then?
Should say that to my knowledge, I don't have a problem yet. Thanks.
All 180bhp BiTurbo engines are CFCA. VW have not changed it as far as I am aware. Have a look at your V5 document and it will have CFC as part of the engine number.

Edit; you can also see this on the label stuck to the inside of the front cover of the handbook that came with the van.

As Larry has said, there now appears to be younger 180bhp Biturbo engines exhibiting this problem. The VW dealer will probably 'poo poo' the thought that your van could be affected, but it is in your interest to satisfy yourself if it is or not, given the warranty date is close. This will all depend on the mileage you do too. The problem tends to kick in suddenly at about 50-80k miles as a rule

I would start to check the oil level regularly particularly before and after a long trip.

The next step is to get a compression test done. This will show up any wear in the cylinder bores which is where the oil loss occurs. If there is any significant imbalance in the compression values between the cylinders, this could indicate the start of bore wear. An independent garage may be best for this, given the dealer's possible attitude.

In turn this wear is currently thought to originate from the EGR cooler corroding and the resultant aluminum corrosion material getting sucked into the cylinder head when the EGR recirculates the exhaust and thereby wearing the bores.

You can also get a Miller Oil test kit which will show if the oil is getting contaminated with anything suspect. All of this will help you decide if you have the high oil consumption starting to occur.

The latest EGR has a D suffix after the part number on the label. You can see this if you peer down between the radiator and the front of the engine in the middle just to the right of the dip stick. You will see the top of the black oil filer can and to the right of that on the ally casing below is a label. This has the part number and the date of manufacture on it amongst other things. As your van is 2014 the date will be prior to the vehicle registration date and may well have a A suffix.

A couple of hundred spent now is cheaper than £7k for a new engine spent in a year or so down the road.

If all of this indicates you may have the problem on your van, you are then into a 'so what now' situation, which only you can decide. Move the van on or wait and see! A terrible decision, which we also had, and given the money we have all spent on these vehicles.

Good luck

Alan
 
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All 180bhp BiTurbo engines are CFCA. VW have not changed it as far as I am aware. Have a look at your V5 document and it will have CFC as part of the engine number.

Edit; you can also see this on the label stuck to the inside of the front cover of the handbook that came with the van.

As Larry has said, there now appears to be younger 180bhp Biturbo engines exhibiting this problem. The VW dealer will probably 'poo poo' the thought that your van could be affected, but it is in your interest to satisfy yourself if it is or not, given the warranty date is close. This will all depend on the mileage you do too. The problem tends to kick in suddenly at about 50-80k miles as a rule

I would start to check the oil level regularly particularly before and after a long trip.

The next step is to get a compression test done. This will show up any wear in the cylinder bores which is where the oil loss occurs. If there is any significant imbalance in the compression values between the cylinders, this could indicate the start of bore wear. An independent garage may be best for this, given the dealer's possible attitude.

In turn this wear is currently thought to originate from the EGR cooler corroding and the resultant aluminum corrosion material getting sucked into the cylinder head when the EGR recirculates the exhaust and thereby wearing the bores.

You can also get a Miller Oil test kit which will show if the oil is getting contaminated with anything suspect. All of this will help you decide if you have the high oil consumption starting to occur.

The latest EGR has a D suffix after the part number on the label. You can see this if you peer down between the radiator and the front of the engine in the middle just to the right of the dip stick. You will see the top of the black oil filer can and to the right of that on the ally casing below is a label. This has the part number and the date of manufacture on it amongst other things. As your van is 2014 the date will be prior to the vehicle registration date and may well have a A suffix.

A couple of hundred spent now is cheaper than £7k for a new engine spent in a year or so down the road.

If all of this indicates you may have the problem on your van, you are then into a 'so what now' situation, which only you can decide. Move the van on or wait and see! A terrible decision, which we also had, and given the money we have all spent on these vehicles.

Good luck

Alan

Alan,
Many thanks. I took a look....................sadly it's 03L 115 512 A.......... I have been on to the dealer (can't take any preventative action without VWCC authorisation). I have contacted VWCC, who seem disinterested and I have been persistent and have escalated........we will await response!
What did you do in the end (move on or wait and see)? Thanks.
 
Alan,
Many thanks. I took a look....................sadly it's 03L 115 512 A.......... I have been on to the dealer (can't take any preventative action without VWCC authorisation). I have contacted VWCC, who seem disinterested and I have been persistent and have escalated........we will await response!
What did you do in the end (move on or wait and see)? Thanks.
An A suffix is probably right for your year. There is also a date on that label which will confirm that. The non suffix EGR Coolers are earlier, from 2010.

I got nowhere with VWUK, despite being given hope when the oil consumption test they insisted I did with a dealer, came up as 'out of specification'. In the end, I struggled on for 8 months with the DPF light flashing on at more regular intervals and hating the van more and more. I pourled litres of oil into the engine until December when the DPF became so clogged up the van went into limp mode while we were traveling to Newcastle. It was a very slow run back to Bristol!

VWUK will be very resistive to doing anything, and the likelihood of getting any support is very remote now. If you bought it from a dealer they may be pressurised into doing something under warranty. If you bought privately, as we did, then there is no chance of any help other than your dealer being generous with the final bill.

If you get the oil test and compression test done, those two things are relatively cheap and will tell you if your engine is wearing or not. That will help you make a decision.

All dealers will do any work you want them to, given you are spending the money, then they shouldn't say no, even if they think it is a waste of time. They are, after all, independent companies (and not owned by VWUK) needing to make a profit. You are the customer and it is your decision.

Good luck

Alan
 
Ok very nervous now as about to sign on a 2012 2.0 bitdi 180ps DSG with 63,000 on the clock from a authorised vw dealer.

Vehicle will have 6 months warranty but given VW's reluctance to "Help" in the worse case scenario thinking it might be best to give this one a swerve.

Thoughts anybody?
 
Ok very nervous now as about to sign on a 2012 2.0 bitdi 180ps DSG with 63,000 on the clock from a authorised vw dealer.

Vehicle will have 6 months warranty but given VW's reluctance to "Help" in the worse case scenario thinking it might be best to give this one a swerve.

Thoughts anybody?

Unless your a gamblin' man I'd give this one a swerve!
 
2012 could be an old stock 2011.

Feelin' lucky punk! (said in a Clint Eastwood style)
I suppose it could have been lying around for 6 months before registration. Unlikely.

Yes, I would take the gamble, but would require something from the VW Dealership to make the deal happen.
The problem, if it is going to rear its head as it does not appear to be that common overall, appears around the 60,000 mile mark.
 
I would come to your own conclusions after reading all the material available.
 
012 2.0 bitdi 180ps DSG with 63,000 on the clock from a authorised vw dealer.

This could be be our old Candy White van if so was a 2012 van and sold to VW and we replaced with a our T6 if so we were very happy with her and not an oil drinker with us. very happy trips
 
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Vehicle will have 6 months warranty but given VW's reluctance to "Help" in the worse case scenario thinking it might be best to give this one a swerve.

I thought all VW approved used VWs came with 12 months warranty?
 
This could be be our old Candy White van if so was a 2012 van and sold to VW and we replaced with a our T6 if so we were very happy with her and not an oil drinker with us. wm12khp very happy trips

Andy have sent you a PM
 
An A suffix is probably right for your year. There is also a date on that label which will confirm that. The non suffix EGR Coolers are earlier, from 2010.

I got nowhere with VWUK, despite being given hope when the oil consumption test they insisted I did with a dealer, came up as 'out of specification'. In the end, I struggled on for 8 months with the DPF light flashing on at more regular intervals and hating the van more and more. I pourled litres of oil into the engine until December when the DPF became so clogged up the van went into limp mode while we were traveling to Newcastle. It was a very slow run back to Bristol!

VWUK will be very resistive to doing anything, and the likelihood of getting any support is very remote now. If you bought it from a dealer they may be pressurised into doing something under warranty. If you bought privately, as we did, then there is no chance of any help other than your dealer being generous with the final bill.

If you get the oil test and compression test done, those two things are relatively cheap and will tell you if your engine is wearing or not. That will help you make a decision.

All dealers will do any work you want them to, given you are spending the money, then they shouldn't say no, even if they think it is a waste of time. They are, after all, independent companies (and not owned by VWUK) needing to make a profit. You are the customer and it is your decision.

Good luck

Alan
Thanks Alan (and others). here's the latest from me.

VWCS ....waste of time. Not interested in helping. Basic premise is if you do tests and there is an issue under warranty, then "OK, VW will fix it". If not, then you pay.

Oil Test...... dealer says they have no clue as to what would be considered in/out of specification, have never done a test and wouldn't know where to start.

Compression test..... I am now wondering if this is worth it at all (as my engine has only done 13000 miles). it should be pristine and have no wear at all. I would have thought there would be a sensor detecting compression issues (or the like) that would give a warning for further investigation. Any leads on this? The dealer wants £260 to do the test and I'm wondering if its' of value right now.

EGR cooler progression from A to D.....anyone have a formal reason from VW why they made this progression? I'm sure they would argue 'efficiency' of some kind, but maybe it's more to do with EGR failure. I have asked VW for this, but am not expecting anything back.

EGR cooler inspection/replacement with D suffix part.....I am getting a quote for both, but believe any difference will essentially be the cost of the new EGR cooler. Any views on what sort of warranty I'd expect on the replaced part (if I take the plunge to do it)?

Many thanks all.
 
Note this is all new to me and the following is only what I have read on the internet, I'm sure someone will be along soon with better knowledge than me and will explain/correct as required.

Oil test - You by a test kit from say Millers Oil, take sample from vehicle and send it back to them, they do lab tests and send you a report, basically your looking to see if there are any contaminates in the oil which might indicate the EGR is/has disintegrated.

Compression test - Cost me £132.00

EGR cooler - Would be interested in knowing what your quoted, have heard £1,500 ish
 
The oil test Vw do is to drain existing oil weigh in new oil you drive for say 500 miles and then the oil is drained and weighed again.
This conveniently means you have waste two trips to the dealers!
 
The oil test Vw do is to drain existing oil weigh in new oil you drive for say 500 miles and then the oil is drained and weighed again.
This conveniently means you have waste two trips to the dealers!

Yes this test is to calculate the amount of oil being used not to see if its contaminated, two different things
 
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